High Jet Pump

spsick · Apr 23, 2023

Hey Roger, with the addition of the High Jet pump being capable of high head is it possible to extend the leads for running the unit remotely (Topoff reservoir in basement)?

I read the manual but it doesn’t specify. If not, I’m curious what scenarios would warrant such a high head capability when the pump still needs to be a few feet from the sensors.

Thanks!

rvitko · Apr 24, 2023

You just need to extend the wires with 24 gauge speaker wire and a terminal connection. The High Jet is polarity dependent so use wires that have clearly marked polarity, if connected backwards it will not run.

spsick · Apr 24, 2023

rvitko said:
You just need to extend the wires with 24 gauge speaker wire and a terminal connection. The High Jet is polarity dependent so use wires that have clearly marked polarity, if connected backwards it will not run.

This is awesome news thanks Roger!

So then is 5000.380 the appropriate tube for the job?

rvitko · Apr 24, 2023

High Jet comes with its own tubing, it is a different size, essentially airline tubing, 6mm OD but we use Polyurethane tubing as it is much more rigid and locks tightly into the push fitting, airline is the same size but vinyl and so it may kink or not fit securely and leak at the push fitting.

spsick · Apr 24, 2023

rvitko said:
High Jet comes with its own tubing, it is a different size, essentially airline tubing, 6mm OD but we use Polyurethane tubing as it is much more rigid and locks tightly into the push fitting, airline is the same size but vinyl and so it may kink or not fit securely and leak at the push fitting.

So would standard 1/4” OD polyethelene RO tubing work? Need to do a 20ft run (only 9ft vertical rise)

rvitko · Apr 24, 2023

Probably, RO tubing is even stiffer, polyethylene, 1/4" is 6.35mm, it will fit very tight most likely. I'd get the pump and take the tubing for comparisons, this would work for sure, the tubing is hard to explain, imagine flexible glass, you can't really squeeze it flat, but it curves easily, it feels almost like glass you can easily bend but it won't kink or collapse

spsick · Apr 24, 2023

rvitko said:
Probably, RO tubing is even stiffer, polyethylene, 1/4" is 6.35mm, it will fit very tight most likely. I'd get the pump and take the tubing for comparisons, this would work for sure, the tubing is hard to explain, imagine flexible glass, you can't really squeeze it flat, but it curves easily, it feels almost like glass you can easily bend but it won't kink or collapse

Sweet, thanks again for your help Roger. I have been eagerly awaiting a way to not have to lug 5 gallon jugs of water up from my basement several times a week without sacrificing the reliability of an Osmolator.

spsick · Apr 29, 2023

Happy to report back that 1/4” John Guest tubing does fit VERY snugly in the push connect fitting, since I have a roll on hand

spsick · Apr 29, 2023

For any future users that read this:

Don’t be a n00b like me, check your pump voltage knob inside the controller if the pump only pulses. Apparently I had mine set to nano for the last 5 years . Works great after turning it up!

spsick · Sep 26, 2023

Hey Roger, do you have any comment on how the High Jet holds up in kalkwasser use? Do I recall you saying it’s better than the old pumps?
@rvitko

rvitko · Sep 26, 2023

It will all come down to maintenance, the High Jet can be disassembled for service, you remove 4 T10 torx screws to get at the impeller, if you do that monthly, kalkwasser will be just fine, but like any pump without maintenance kalk will be brutal and destroy the pump.

CjBurden · Jan 17, 2024

Hi Roger,

I tried to add 24awg stranded wire to lengthen the cable but have run into the issue that the pump comes on for about a second and then shuts off. Would this likely be due to the polarity issue you mentioned? I also saw that you had mentioned terminals, and I simply twisted and soldered these connections. Are terminals mandatory here?

rvitko · Jan 18, 2024

Polarity would be the most likely cause, I would generally use terminals as in the future it would simplify testing, repair and replacement. It is possible if the wire is very long the current is dropping too much. This also assumes you are working with the retrofit High Jet 5000.021. The variant that comes with the Osmolator 3 is High jet 5030.020 and it will only work with an Osmolator 3 as it has no driver, this version has a cable ending in a waterproof 3 pin connecter, the driver is integrated in the controller and the cable incorporates 2 way data transmission as well as power.

CjBurden · Jan 18, 2024

rvitko said:
Polarity would be the most likely cause, I would generally use terminals as in the future it would simplify testing, repair and replacement. It is possible if the wire is very long the current is dropping too much. This also assumes you are working with the retrofit High Jet 5000.021. The variant that comes with the Osmolator 3 is High jet 5030.020 and it will only work with an Osmolator 3 as it has no driver, this version has a cable ending in a waterproof 3 pin connecter, the driver is integrated in the controller and the cable incorporates 2 way data transmission as well as power.

Interesting, ty for the reply. A couple things you said could be a likely issue. For one, this is with the osmolator 3. Is it still possible to add wire, or is the add-on wire from Tunze the only way to make that happen? If the add-on is needed, is it possible to add multiples or would that also cause the current to drop? It's definitely a long run I'm trying to make (approximately 25 feet total with about 12 feet of head height so would need 2 add-on cables).

Have to say, I really love the system. It's so clean and easy to use, the pump is nice and quiet. It's the most plug and play of all the auto top offs I've ever had.

Thank you again for your help.

rvitko · Jan 19, 2024

The add on cable will be available very soon, this would be the best way primarily because it will keep the waterproofing. We know for sure one 3m length is no problem, we are testing multiples, 2 will likely be ok but we don't know for sure. The heart of the issue is it is a BEMF motor, (back electromotive force), what this basically means is as you may know a generator is just a motor spinning backwards and instead of electricity spinning the motor, the opposite is happening and it is producing electricity. The reality is a motor produces some electricity when it runs, nothing is purely one or the other. A BEMF motor detects this weak electrical current produced and can deduce from that the speed, if it is stuck etc and can then compensate with more power or shut down, so this two way signal is critical and it is a superior system to hall effect sensors, etc, because it has so few parts, a lot less can fail.

CjBurden · Jan 19, 2024

rvitko said:
The add on cable will be available very soon, this would be the best way primarily because it will keep the waterproofing. We know for sure one 3m length is no problem, we are testing multiples, 2 will likely be ok but we don't know for sure. The heart of the issue is it is a BEMF motor, (back electromotive force), what this basically means is as you may know a generator is just a motor spinning backwards and instead of electricity spinning the motor, the opposite is happening and it is producing electricity. The reality is a motor produces some electricity when it runs, nothing is purely one or the other. A BEMF motor detects this weak electrical current produced and can deduce from that the speed, if it is stuck etc and can then compensate with more power or shut down, so this two way signal is critical and it is a superior system to hall effect sensors, etc, because it has so few parts, a lot less can fail.

ok that makes sense. It seems like if there is an issue, the motor just immediately shuts down. Think I could do any damage to it by trying to make too long of a run? I'd be happy to experiment a bit with it if I'm not going to burn it out. If you don't feel comfortable saying, that's certainly ok too. Thanks again!