High nitrate problem

Biopellets are great. Which ones are you using?

Side Note: I would not be running carbon in your filter socks are high flow area. It has been known to cause HLLE.

So I shouldnt be puttinf anything in my filter sock? Because it is a high flow area? What is hlle?
 
Head and Lateral Line Erosion is thought to be caused by dust from carbon. If you put the media in a high flow area and it has room to tumble it might break apart and create the dust which may be a cause for HLLE. Leaving the carbon loose in a filter sock might not be a good idea for that reason, but if it were tightly packed in a bag inside the filter sock I don't think it would be much of an issue. Using a reactor like the phosban150 is a good alternative though.
 
Head and Lateral Line Erosion is thought to be caused by dust from carbon. If you put the media in a high flow area and it has room to tumble it might break apart and create the dust which may be a cause for HLLE. Leaving the carbon loose in a filter sock might not be a good idea for that reason, but if it were tightly packed in a bag inside the filter sock I don't think it would be much of an issue. Using a reactor like the phosban150 is a good alternative though.

Ahhhh tht makes alot of sense but i put good amount of filter pad on top of the carbon to keep it in place :). But i learned something new today because I never heard of HLLE. I wondered y the person tht told me to put carbon in the sock told me to also put the filter pad on top... Maybe that was the reason. Thank you :)
 
It also just works better when it can't move, you really want the water forced through the carbon to get the best effect of it. It sounds like your setup should be fine though in my opinion.
 
Try siporax. 2-3 months to fully establish.
I don't think siporax would help. Nitates are converted to nitrogen by anaerobic bacteria not aerobic ones. Siporax being too small in size i wonder how it could achieve that? MarinePure would be a better option. A big 8x8x4 inch block. Work greats for nitrates, simple to use unlike anyother method. Folk have made a big buff out of it releasing aluminium. But i never heard a case where it ruined anything, its just a hoax IMO. I have seen many LPS tanks running with those successfully.

There are 2 ways to reduce nitrate
Export methods
Increased bacterial population

Increase bacterial population where?
All the methods such as sulphur reactor, bio-pellets, has their own drawbacks..
Carbon dosing would be a good option, but have to deal with cyano at times. Preferable would be sugar + vinegar, as randy stated and uses.

Also look into ATS, @Floyd R Turbo ,
He will shed more light on it. Also he has a wonderful product. Which i would highly recommend.
 
It also just works better when it can't move, you really want the water forced through the carbon to get the best effect of it. It sounds like your setup should be fine though in my opinion.
Are you talking about GAC (Granular activated carbon) or a biodegradable polymer (Carbon source)?
GAC heck no would'nt reduce a thing...
Bio-pellet reactor with a carbon source, too slow and is not foolproof IMO.
 
Increase bacterial population where?
Siporax (or any other sintered glass media). Its reported that one liter of sipo has 270 m2 surface area.
All the methods such as sulphur reactor, bio-pellets, has their own drawbacks..
Siporax dont, as far as I know. Seems the safest method among all. The drawbacks are needs for space in sump and longer startup duration. But after it starts functioning, will hardly ever see nitrates again.
 
For me I insist on a natural way. And the best natural way is to export using algae growth. I personally devoted my whole sump to cheato growing. The thing with using this method is you need to get tons of light on the cheato. I light my grow areas from the top and sides. Right now I'm harvesting about a half a garbage bag full a month. My system is 700 gallons and I'm way overstocked and over feed and my nutrient levels are super low. Here's a video of my tank. It's 350 gallon loaded with big tangs. The other thing is I rarely ever do water changes. I also believe this is the healthiest way to keep low nutrients. If you think about it..imagine the ocean without green stuff. I can't imagine a tank without a lot of purifying algae in one form or another...scrubber,cheato growing area..

 
Siporax (or any other sintered glass media). Its reported that one liter of sipo has 270 m2 surface area.

Surface area and anaerobic zones are altogether different aspects..let me rephrase it for you
Is siporax dense or big enough to have anaerobic zones, wherein anaerobic bacteria could survive, thrive and reproduce? As you have stated 270 m2 per liter or whatever, i don't think it has those zones..It's anaerobic bacteria which complete the nitrogen cycle ie. nitrates to nitrogen.
 
The drawbacks are needs for space in sump and longer startup duration. But after it starts functioning, will hardly ever see nitrates again.
The point is to have a simple, manageable and efficient piece of equipment. As they say there are more than a million ways to skin a PIG.
 
Surface area and anaerobic zones are altogether different aspects..let me rephrase it for you
Is siporax dense or big enough to have anaerobic zones, wherein anaerobic bacteria could survive, thrive and reproduce? As you have stated 270 m2 per liter or whatever, i don't think it has those zones..It's anaerobic bacteria which complete the nitrogen cycle ie. nitrates to nitrogen.

Please make a good google research about it first. You'll have all the answers.
 
Please make a good google research about it first. You'll have all the answers.
That is something i don't buy not worth IMO. You have to dedicate a special unit for it inorder to pass low, very low volume of water through it as stated on seras web.
My point was to use commonly efficient method or ways which are tried, tested, economical and not pain in the rear. If you know am sayin'.

Even a few marinepure balls in my FW tank does denitrification, Still it does not justify to me. I think that is due to presence of it at right place at right time. And i'm sure it wouldn't work the same way if i took it out and transferred them to another tank.
 
As I said, make a good research. Your assumptions are not correct.
 
It also just works better when it can't move, you really want the water forced through the carbon to get the best effect of it. It sounds like your setup should be fine though in my opinion.

Thank you
 
Thank you
Lots of info for you here. Please do some research on all these methods - carbon dosing (Red Sea NOPOX is easy to use) macro algae, gfo, ats- all work. Chose one that best suits you And stick with it. Don't spend a ton of money- and don't go crazy over a number. Do your water changes and apply one of these methods. You will see results.
 

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