High nitrates

[danielelacy1]

I'm having a really hard time with high nitrates in my fairly "new" tank and hoping this awesome group can offer some help!!

Did a tank transfer in a matter of 4 days for a friend who deployed (clearly not ideal at all). Did the transfer a little over 3 weeks ago.

Tank set up: 55g, ~80lbs cured LR, 2 inches of live sand, 1 air pump running 2 air stones, 2 Fluval 306 canister filters (new media change out over 3 weeks- corse filters, biolfilters, pre-filter media, Biomax, polishing pad, and carbon packet [all Fluval brand]), feeding EOD.

1 clown, 4 damsels, Mandarin Dragonet (very healthy and no signs of starving), 2 peppermint shrimps, ~6-8 nassarius snails

Tank readings:
SG=1.023
78°F
pH=8.1
Ammonia=0ppm
Nitrite=0ppm
Nitrate=>200ppm <---ISSUE!!!

I am working on getting a hob skimmer as this piece of equipment somehow ended up in storage before my friend deployed. Not able to do refugium set up right now so trying to make do with what I have.

I am completely new to all of this as of 3 weeks ago. Doing 20% water changes every 3 days for last week in attempts to lower nitrate levels. Hasn't touched nitrate levels whatsoever. Tested regular tap water and no signs of nitrates there.

Using marine conditioner and instant ocean salt when making water for water changes.


What else can I do???

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Make sure your test kit isn't faulty. do you have a second kit you can compare it to? or take a water sample to your lfs.

 

[danielelacy1]

Make sure your test kit isn't faulty. do you have a second kit you can compare it to? or take a water sample to your lfs.

I'm using API and have also had water tested a local aquarium store

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Canister filters aren't ideal as they just trap detritus and you have to clean them out frequently. to make a dent with water changes, you'd be looking at 50%+ at a time. to keep no3 down you might need to scale back feeding or possibly run biopellets.

You could also have an abundance of no3 bound in your rock and/or sand, which is leaching out.

 

[Tautog]

Sounds like something died during the switch.
Do a 40% WC. Wait a week, test, do another 40%
There are different pads that remove No3's. As well as solutions of bacteria to decrease nitrates.
Don't be afraid to do the large WC, but only 40%.

 

[danielelacy1]

Canister filters aren't ideal as they just trap detritus and you have to clean them out frequently. to make a dent with water changes, you'd be looking at 50%+ at a time. to keep no3 down you might need to scale back feeding or possibly run biopellets.

You could also have an abundance of no3 bound in your rock and/or sand, which is leaching out.

I've read canisters are nitrate factories but trying to make do until I can get a refugium set up. What's the best way to get the build up out from rock and sand?

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Nah, you can do much larger water changes so long as you match the existing parameters.

Sounds like something died during the switch.
Do a 40% WC. Wait a week, test, do another 40%
There are different pads that remove No3's. As well as solutions of bacteria to decrease nitrates.
Don't be afraid to do the large WC, but only 40%.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

They aren't factories as they don't produce the actual nitrates. more like traps. I'd clean them weekly until you can get a sump going.

Big water changes, biopellets or products like red sea nopox will reduce nitrates.

Do you have corals?

I've read canisters are nitrate factories but trying to make do until I can get a refugium set up. What's the best way to get the build up out from rock and sand?

 

[danielelacy1]

Sounds like something died during the switch.
Do a 40% WC. Wait a week, test, do another 40%
There are different pads that remove No3's. As well as solutions of bacteria to decrease nitrates.
Don't be afraid to do the large WC, but only 40%.

Did a 30% today and still no change in nitrate levels. Still have all the fish except the firefish (not sure the reason since the mandarin is still alive and healthy) who was removed in less than 24 hours - that was a week ago.

 

[danielelacy1]

I'm having a really hard time with high nitrates in my fairly "new" tank and hoping this awesome group can offer some help!!

Did a tank transfer in a matter of 4 days for a friend who deployed (clearly not ideal at all). Did the transfer a little over 3 weeks ago.

Tank set up: 55g, ~80lbs cured LR, 2 inches of live sand, 1 air pump running 2 air stones, 2 Fluval 306 canister filters (new media change out over 3 weeks- corse filters, biolfilters, pre-filter media, Biomax, polishing pad, and carbon packet [all Fluval brand]), feeding EOD.

1 clown, 4 damsels, Mandarin Dragonet (very healthy and no signs of starving), 2 peppermint shrimps, ~6-8 nassarius snails

Tank readings:
SG=1.023
78°F
pH=8.1
Ammonia=0ppm
Nitrite=0ppm
Nitrate=>200ppm <---ISSUE!!!

I am working on getting a hob skimmer as this piece of equipment somehow ended up in storage before my friend deployed. Not able to do refugium set up right now so trying to make do with what I have.

I am completely new to all of this as of 3 weeks ago. Doing 20% water changes every 3 days for last week in attempts to lower nitrate levels. Hasn't touched nitrate levels whatsoever. Tested regular tap water and no signs of nitrates there.

Using marine conditioner and instant ocean salt when making water for water changes.


What else can I do???

Oh and anew Aqueon Floramax 32w T8 running 8 hours/ day

 

[danielelacy1]

They aren't factories as they don't produce the actual nitrates. more like traps. I'd clean them weekly until you can get a sump going.

Big water changes, biopellets or products like red sea nopox will reduce nitrates.

Do you have corals?

I do not have corals and probably won't until I become more experienced.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

In that case, 200ppm no3 isn't the end of the world for most fish. but I'd still want it lower.

I do not have corals and probably won't until I become more experienced.

 

[TylerS]

It seems like you know what to do, get a skimmer running and a sump. Sounds like you'll be using a hang on overflow whenever you get a sump going which also isn't ideal.

Some of the other suggestions such as biopellets and nopox require skimming I think.

Also, are you using RODI filtered water as your source water? Even if there are no nitrates in it you might still have trouble with something else. How are the phosphates?

This product might help, but you don't have a sump so it would have to go in the display. http://m.marinedepot.com/products/bw01765/brightwell-aquatics-xport-no3-dimpled-brick

 

[Lowstorm]

Did you transfer over the sanded too? If yes I'm betting what happened is that it wasn't the cleanest (no sanded really is if it's been established for a while) so when it was moved you released a lot of nutrients from it, and killed a bunch of bacteria in it. Nothing that can't be fixed. Next water change get your tube or vacuum right down into the substrate and suck up as much gunk as possible.

Without a sump you can look into hang on back skimmers. I ran my first few tanks with them very effectively. They aren't ideal, but they work! And it would be a thousand times better than other filtration systems that have been mentioned. There's been huge upgrades in them in the years since I last had one.

 

[jason.kennedy.98478]

I'm using API and have also had water tested a local aquarium store

I use API as well just make sure the chemicals are well agitated and bang then on the table before you use them. Also use a timer for the no3 test, the test tube shake times are important. I run a biowheel and have in the 10 to 40 ppm range for no3. My acros, montie, chalice, zoas and hammer are all growing and doing well. If your no3 is really that high just clean the filter and do a water change. Dirty filter = high no3 also some nopox could help