High Phos inverts dying

[GARRIGA]

Running a test tank and routinely raise nitrates to 160 ppm (might have nitrites throwing that off) and phosphates over 2 ppm. Have margaritas and nassarius. None have died except for one very large margarita which might have been from old age. Might be something else affecting the snails.

 

[cdnco2004]

I had done multiple large water changes did not resolve it and I did not do something just by pulling it off the shelves the product was recommended by BRS and WWC as what to use if you need to bring Phosphate numbers down that it is safe and precise, I followed the dosage instructions on the bottle. I mentioned in this post the day before I dosed the Phos-E that I intended to do so based on what I had read. Not a single person spoke against. Not one. As I said I dosed according to the bottle, and I am pretty sure the guys at Brightwell know their product well, they are pretty bright. This product was recommended by Ryan @BRS and Vic @WWC.

 

[Fishy888]

For the people saying "Well, I was fine at 1 ppm" - having 1ppm phosphates and driving phosphates to 1ppm over a very short time are very different things.

This! Rapid swings almost never end well. Even though I have 1ppm phosphates it doesn't mean I don't have issues. I have plenty of GHA and cyano right now. I am going to bring them down but gradually. I didn't get to 1ppm phosphates overnight so I don't expect them to go down overnight. Even though I will probably use phosphate-e I won't be dropping the hammer to try to get them down. I'll only drop them to .1ppm or .075ppm and let my chaeto and sensible feeding get me the rest of the way. I'm glad it worked out for you OP but it's far too risky. I guarantee you if you had a tank full of rare SPS or anemones it wouldn't have worked out so well.

 

[Fishy888]

I had done multiple large water changes did not resolve it and I did not do something just by pulling it off the shelves the product was recommended by BRS and WWC as what to use if you need to bring Phosphate numbers down that it is safe and precise, I followed the dosage instructions on the bottle. I mentioned in this post the day before I dosed the Phos-E that I intended to do so based on what I had read. Not a single person spoke against. Not one. As I said I dosed according to the bottle, and I am pretty sure the guys at Brightwell know their product well, they are pretty bright. This product was recommended by Ryan @BRS and Vic @WWC.

I agree that large water changes wouldn't bring down phosphates noticably. Nitrates sure but phosphates bind to caco3. The rocks and sand are reservoirs. If there are less phosphates in the water than in the rock phosphates will leach out. It would take many large water changes to reduce phosphates enough and that doesn't account for food, detritus, fish waste etc.

 

[cdnco2004]

I had done MULTIPLE large WC and they did nothing. I was not idle up until the Shrimp died. I was already trying to figure out what was up when I noticed snails dying off and one of my conchs and that my Hammers were not happy and stayed more closed than normal. It was only after both my Skunk Cleaner Shrimp died in less than 12 hours apart that I started to worry something was even worse and I made the post. I had already been talking to local guys I knew which is why I had tried PhosGuard for 2 weeks prior to my initial post here. But my numbers did not come down with the PhosGuard nor multiple LARGE WC. Then the Shrimp died, and I decided it was time to step up the battle. No one spoke out against Phose-E prior to my usage of it and I followed the instructions, and it is recommended as safe for coral and inverts and that it is precise, and you can be sure that once you do your math that same dosage amount will always work the same way.