High phosphate, high nitrate

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

So, the balance everyone talks about is the Redfield Ratio, C160/N16/P1. Although there is a lot of disagreement on the exact ratio in our artificial environments as opposed to natural seawater. I personally go by a variable ratio ranging from 200-120/30-12/1-3 with sweet spots in each to strive for, but not exact numbers to hit.

And the 3x3 patch is so you don't stir up too much detritus at once while cleaning the sand. It allows for anything you kick up to settle, avoiding large nutrient spikes.

The Redfield ratio has nothing to do with our tanks. A general rule of thumb for a "balance" between nitrate and phosphate is 100:1.
For example , the OP has nitrates of around 50 and phos around .5, so that's a good ratio.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

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[sdreef]

100ltr redsea all in one, 9 month old all parameters stable hana checked. I put in 1 bag of metrix media and another can't remember name, could this affect my nitrate, phosphate levels??
I am also using rowa phos and dosing reef zlements carboplus 1ml daily, 25%water change and vacuum sand feed frozen shrimps etc no flakes
Just can't get levels down, any help appreciated

Aside from absolute number and whatever is considered acceptable, I am wondering if your N/P are trending up or are stable. If they are trending up, then you may want to consider increasing export to address that trend.

I may have missed how often you are changing 25% water? Perhaps, increasing frequency of water changes would be one method to remove N/P in proportion. Adjusting the skimmer for wetter skimmate may also help. I don't know what other export methods your employing currently (mechanical, refugium, ATS?), those are all consideration depending on your exact set up.

Carbon dosing is something I recently started doing that has also been helpful for me, but I don't have the longest duration of experience with this method, and others may have additional insights. In my case, it has affected nitrates more than phosphate, but I don't believe that's a universal experience.

Just some thoughts that may help you get levels down if you decide that's your goal.

 

[carp890]

So, the balance everyone talks about is the Redfield Ratio, C160/N16/P1. Although there is a lot of disagreement on the exact ratio in our artificial environments as opposed to natural seawater. I personally go by a variable ratio ranging from 200-120/30-12/1-3 with sweet spots in each to strive for, but not exact numbers to hit.

And the 3x3 patch is so you don't stir up too much detritus at once while cleaning the sand. It allows for anything you kick up to settle, avoiding large nutrient spikes.

Thanks for the info, still a bit confused about this balance (I am 70) but thanks again

 

[Reef Psychology]

Thanks for the info, still a bit confused about this balance (I am 70) but thanks again

It's just another ratio that people have come up with over the years like alkalinity to calcium levels. Whether it matters or not, I have no clue, but I guarantee you that at the end of the day what matters most is good maintenance, proper care of the animals and stability. If you can do those things most everything else will be fine.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thanks for the info, still a bit confused about this balance (I am 70) but thanks again

As I said a few posts ago...

The Redfield ratio has nothing to do with our tanks. A general rule of thumb for a "balance" between nitrate and phosphate is 100:1.
For example , the OP has nitrates of around 50 and phos around .5, so that's a good ratio.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

It's just another ratio that people have come up with over the years like alkalinity to calcium levels. Whether it matters or not, I have no clue, but I guarantee you that at the end of the day what matters most is good maintenance, proper care of the animals and stability. If you can do those things most everything else will be fine.

That's not even close to what the Redfield ratio is. Feel free to do some research and learn how it was determined and whether or not it's even used for that application any longer... I don't want you spoil your adventure, lol!

 

[Reef Psychology]

That's not even close to what the Redfield ratio is. Feel free to do some research and learn how it was determined and whether or not it's even used for that application any longer... I don't want you spoil your adventure, lol!

Yes, I remember it vaguely from college and from Reef Central 10+ years back. I did not explain what it was only that it's a ratio (derived from observed in nature) that people used as a guide or even a rule in some cases. And you don't have to worry about my adventure. I'll be fine.

 

[blaxsun]

Very wrong. Many of us keep nutrients even higher and have thriving tanks. Stability is the key.

^ This. My nitrates are consistently in the 35-40ppm range and phosphates typically around 0.1-0.2ppm.

 

[Subsea]

The Redfield Ratio of N at 16:1 is for phytoplankton. Differrent macroalgae have differrent N ratios with most at 30:1. It is not necessary to have that ratio in the bulk water, The macro algae will use N in a fixed ratio no matter the ratio in the water.

 

[Subsea]

I think 50 ppm of nitrate is unnecessary. In general, the growth of macro algae is not determined by the highest nutrient, but it is limited when nutrients bottom out. I have unopened test kits that are 5 years past expiration date and have not done any water testing in 10 years. I monitor temperature & specific gravity. In general, macro prefer ammonia to nitrate which also applies to coral. I often dose ammonia and see immediate feeding response in rock anemone.

 

[HankstankXXL750 Verified Sponsor]

Aside from absolute number and whatever is considered acceptable, I am wondering if your N/P are trending up or are stable. If they are trending up, then you may want to consider increasing export to address that trend.

I may have missed how often you are changing 25% water? Perhaps, increasing frequency of water changes would be one method to remove N/P in proportion. Adjusting the skimmer for wetter skimmate may also help. I don't know what other export methods your employing currently (mechanical, refugium, ATS?), those are all consideration depending on your exact set up.

Carbon dosing is something I recently started doing that has also been helpful for me, but I don't have the longest duration of experience with this method, and others may have additional insights. In my case, it has affected nitrates more than phosphate, but I don't believe that's a universal experience.

Just some thoughts that may help you get levels down if you decide that's your goal.

I too have found that carbon dosing applies more to nitrate export than phosphate. I have to dose Brightwell Phosphate-E for phosphate reduction.