High Phosphates - Let's lower it!

Daniel91

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Well, I was testing tonight and found my phosphates at 0.16 using the Hanna ULR ppm checker for both my tanks.


Threw me off a little as all the corals are doing great and I did a 20% water change of both tanks (13gal and 10gal) a couple of days ago.

My RO/DI water shows 0 TDS - carbon/sediment is due for a change but could that really it?


I always watch my feeding and I do not stock heavy in either tank - what could be contributing to this number?


Seeing as corals are happy, I am not in a rush to lower it but I would like to get it down to the ideal level of around 0.05 ppm.
 
Well, I was testing tonight and found my phosphates at 0.16 using the Hanna ULR ppm checker for both my tanks.


Threw me off a little as all the corals are doing great and I did a 20% water change of both tanks (13gal and 10gal) a couple of days ago.

My RO/DI water shows 0 TDS - carbon/sediment is due for a change but could that really it?


I always watch my feeding and I do not stock heavy in either tank - what could be contributing to this number?


Seeing as corals are happy, I am not in a rush to lower it but I would like to get it down to the ideal level of around 0.05 ppm.
I maintain a balance with gfo and NoPox
 
Unless using a system like Zeovit and looking supplementing ultra low nutrients with additives, having a low Phos reading is not ideal.

In the wild corals have a ton of microfauna to feed on. In our tanks - no matter who amazing you think your pod population, it's nothing compared to what mother nature has.

So in your tank your corals need food - and that is phosphates - nutrients in the water column for the corals to consume.

You want as much phosphates as possible for your filtration capabilities. And there isn't a set number. My tank hasn't been under 1.4 for the past 5 years and a year ago the phosphates were 2.4 for about 4 months. Many public aquariums are running reef tanks with phosphate values higher than that.

Targeting a number without a real reason is of no value in this hobby. You want to maintain stability with a range that suits your system.

If your corals are looking good at the phosphate levels you have now... Then don't mess with what's working.

Dave B
 
The following article should answer your question I think, and as you will see to avoid potential issues, a good target is very low at around 0.o3ppm.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/

I personally keep mine locked down with Rhowaphos in a reactor. If you do lower it I would just do it slowly as your corals may have adapted to the higher levels
 
Thanks for the feedback all.

Again, it’s not critical as everything seems happy and I don’t want to chase a specific lower number - I just want to slowly decrease it.

I’ll do an extra waterchange this week

Thanks!
 
Water changes don't do much for phosphates. They are bound in equilibrium between the water and sand/rock.

As you said, everything is fine, so don't worry about them too much.

What are your nitrates? @Hemmdog 's questions are relevant too, imo.
 
A year old tank, started with dry rock (probably leaching a bit of P). A little bit of phosphate, and a little bit of nitrate. I bet those numbers will come down on their own as the tank matures.
 
.16 isnt terrible at all. many people (myself included) shoot for 0.1ppm po4 and about 10-20 ppm no3.
so you're very close to what many of us would consider ideal.
 
i have searched high and low for the original data that stated 0.03

if anyone knows it
please let me know

i kinda suspect someone might have tested some water on a reef and thast stuck and has been quoted ever since

or dare i suggest it was suggested by a manufacturer ???

(quite happy to be proven wrong on this
but i work in sewage filtration
and am qualified in process engineering from Delft University )
 
i have searched high and low for the original data that stated 0.03

if anyone knows it
please let me know

i kinda suspect someone might have tested some water on a reef and thast stuck and has been quoted ever since

or dare i suggest it was suggested by a manufacturer ???

(quite happy to be proven wrong on this
but i work in sewage filtration
and am qualified in process engineering from Delft University )
It’s in my original post above but here again with some additional information. Note the author.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/
 

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