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Kapachuka3
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Ok I tested my nitrates and they were zero but I tested my phos and they were around 4.0 and 10.0.
High phosphates
- Thread starter Kapachuka3
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blaxsun
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I can't tell what kind of tank you have, but it's likely that you're not exporting enough nutrients and that could be spiking your phosphate -or- it's a false reading. Chemi-Pure Blue or Chemi-Pure Elite will definitely help as an interim solution, and you can try cutting feeding back a bit as well. Two Little Fishies also makes a product called PhosBan that is very effective - but you have to read the instructions very carefully (and go with a lot less than the initial recommended dose).
attiland
2500 Club Member
Now that is not a good sign I mean if your nitrates are zero.
phosphates will not be consumed by anything otherwise would use them if that is the case. Even algae needs both present.
Also this imbalance often good recipe for unwanted guests like Dinos to take over although not direct cause.
vetteguy53081
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If its gonna wait- see if you can borrow even a teaspoon of GFO to lower it, or do a water change to keep the level at bay
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Kapachuka3
Valuable Member
Ok so just tested the nitrates again and I didn’t do it right the first time. The nitrates are pretty high and I will do a water change on Monday. And maybe get a skimmer and I also think I need a lot more snails in the tank. And what type of snails do you recommend I will probably get around 10-15. For a 32.5 gallon.
attiland
2500 Club Member
I am sure you know this but snails won’t hep your levels. 10-15 is a lot if you ask me but I would do a mixture of Turbo, Trochus, Nassarius, Fighting Conch and bumble bee probably 2 ea
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Kapachuka3
Valuable Member
Ok I know they won’t help the levels directly but they eat a lot of food and literal crap from the fish and won’t that indirectly help the levels by getting rid of algae and stuff?
Pistondog
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Phosphate binds to rock and substrate. Above 1 is high, but perhaps not to,fish.
If Phosphate < 0.5, use gfo
If Phosphate > 0.5, use lanthanum chloride, diluted, dripped into a 5 micron filter sock. You must also be running a skimmer. Research lanthanum chloride before using it.
If Phosphate < 0.5, use gfo
If Phosphate > 0.5, use lanthanum chloride, diluted, dripped into a 5 micron filter sock. You must also be running a skimmer. Research lanthanum chloride before using it.
Afterburner
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First thing you need is a good Skimmer for nutrient export. I also suggest Lanthanum because it works immediately, then more phosphates will leach out of the rocks over a few days and you can do it again. I used Phosphate Rx because it is already diluted correctly. You don't need much. I would drip 6-8 drops directly into the top of your skimmer and watch it go crazy. This way it doesn't cloud up the tank. I didn't bother using the super low micron socks becauseI would be constantly cleaning the socks. The skimmer approach worked fine for me. I even use Lanthanum for anything above 0.2 PO4, but since I got an algae scrubber I have not had to use it.
attiland
2500 Club Member
And I think this is the point. Algae reactor and you don’t need chemicals.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
Not 100% true either......
Even with a very well producing algae scrubber, I still need to use GFO to keep PO4 under .2.
attiland
2500 Club Member
I use an algae reactor and of course could be wrongly sized but worked out for me.
Afterburner
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I have found that even with an algae scrubber, you need to occasionally add chemicals or other media to reduce phosphates.
Did anyone ask if he is using RODI water for his ATO. He may want to check the fresh water for phosphates since if this is the issue, he will never get there with other means.
Did anyone ask if he is using RODI water for his ATO. He may want to check the fresh water for phosphates since if this is the issue, he will never get there with other means.
Afterburner
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By the way, no two tanks are alike, so what works well for one tank might not work as well for another, and what works at one point in time may not later on. This is a constant experiment with changing parameters as your tank matures or you make changes. Something as insignificant as moving/adjusting your powerhead can cause your parameters to change significantly as the microscopic fauna on your rock work dies in one area and flourishes in another until the system re-stabilizes.
I try to keep my NO3 around 2ppm and PO4 around 0.08 because I have a mixed reef and found that driving PO4 down to 0.02 hurts my LPS. It is a ballancing act both ways with a mixed reef where neither SPS or LPS are really happy. I also dose a little carbon (NOPOX) every day (right now at 2ml for my 100+gal system). I have found that minor changes in the carbon dosing helps me control swings in PO4, but you have to watch that you don't drive the NO3 all the way to zero. You might consider this once you have your systems stabilized. For this to work, YOU SHOULD HAVE A SKIMMER (I noticed you said earlier that you did not have one). It also helps to add a porous block in your sump.
I try to keep my NO3 around 2ppm and PO4 around 0.08 because I have a mixed reef and found that driving PO4 down to 0.02 hurts my LPS. It is a ballancing act both ways with a mixed reef where neither SPS or LPS are really happy. I also dose a little carbon (NOPOX) every day (right now at 2ml for my 100+gal system). I have found that minor changes in the carbon dosing helps me control swings in PO4, but you have to watch that you don't drive the NO3 all the way to zero. You might consider this once you have your systems stabilized. For this to work, YOU SHOULD HAVE A SKIMMER (I noticed you said earlier that you did not have one). It also helps to add a porous block in your sump.
Sparkee
New Member
Been battling high phosphates myself for six months. Have no idea what the cause is, Ive been using GFO for past 3 weeks and no change in readings, (.9) Someone suggested using rowaphos. Is.nt that the same a GFO? Nitrate are high as well(20) but slowly coming down. All other elements are right on.
Below are the things I ve di=one to lower Phosphates:
+ reduce food. I feed flakes and frozen
+ bioload isn't at fault
+ change socks every week
+ vacuum bottom of sump
+ 10% water changes weekly
Many have suggested NOPOX . I would like to find out cause before using chemicals.
Any thoughts...ideas would be appreciated.
Below are the things I ve di=one to lower Phosphates:
+ reduce food. I feed flakes and frozen
+ bioload isn't at fault
+ change socks every week
+ vacuum bottom of sump
+ 10% water changes weekly
Many have suggested NOPOX . I would like to find out cause before using chemicals.
Any thoughts...ideas would be appreciated.
Most main causes of high P are dead/dry rock being bound with terrestrial phosphate which is now unbinding in your tank. Older tanks can have problems because the rock and sand bound it for a long time and disguised poor export/husbandry - this can sometimes take years.
In any case, if you have a lot in the water column, you can bet that there is a ton more bound to the rocks and sand. Once you remove some from the water column, some will unbind from the aragonite and it will look like you did not do anything, but you did... this can take a long time to get down and stay down. Try and avoid removing so much that the tank level drops really low in a spike and then spikes back up once the aragonite releases.
I would use Lan Chloride for large amounts. It is cheaper and easy to use, but you must have a good skimmer. Go slow. A drop once or twice a day might be enough - this can take months, but it did not get high overnight, so just embrace the journey.
Also, if you are going to chase P lower, get a good testing tool like Hannah Ultra Low.
In any case, if you have a lot in the water column, you can bet that there is a ton more bound to the rocks and sand. Once you remove some from the water column, some will unbind from the aragonite and it will look like you did not do anything, but you did... this can take a long time to get down and stay down. Try and avoid removing so much that the tank level drops really low in a spike and then spikes back up once the aragonite releases.
I would use Lan Chloride for large amounts. It is cheaper and easy to use, but you must have a good skimmer. Go slow. A drop once or twice a day might be enough - this can take months, but it did not get high overnight, so just embrace the journey.
Also, if you are going to chase P lower, get a good testing tool like Hannah Ultra Low.
jenniferreichardt
Community Member
I e read a lot that LC is terrible for tangs; I’ve got tangs. I’m in the same boat as others here. My phosphates are .4-.6 consistently while nitrates are 1-3. I’ve tried cutting food back, do weekly wc’s, change filters out 3x week. Im using zeovit, so that should help, but I think my problem is more basic. I have used phosguard but got huge spikes. Other than LC, what would you recommend for me? I prefer natural bc I want to fix the problem, not just band aid. My tank is 180 gallons with sump, skimmer, no fuge, carbon and zeovit reactors. Thank you for your time.Most main causes of high P are dead/dry rock being bound with terrestrial phosphate which is now unbinding in your tank. Older tanks can have problems because the rock and sand bound it for a long time and disguised poor export/husbandry - this can sometimes take years.
In any case, if you have a lot in the water column, you can bet that there is a ton more bound to the rocks and sand. Once you remove some from the water column, some will unbind from the aragonite and it will look like you did not do anything, but you did... this can take a long time to get down and stay down. Try and avoid removing so much that the tank level drops really low in a spike and then spikes back up once the aragonite releases.
I would use Lan Chloride for large amounts. It is cheaper and easy to use, but you must have a good skimmer. Go slow. A drop once or twice a day might be enough - this can take months, but it did not get high overnight, so just embrace the journey.
Also, if you are going to chase P lower, get a good testing tool like Hannah Ultra Low.
You are going to have to use media with it that high. If you don't to use LC, then GFO is it. It could take 5 gallons of GFO with a large tank. More skimmers helps to keep stuff low. Once you get it low, you could add a fuge, but you still might need media.
GFO is safe if you go slow with it. It can take a long time.
GFO is safe if you go slow with it. It can take a long time.
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Kapachuka3
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Ok I think my tanks all good I’ve done several water changes and gotten more snails. Thanks
