High ppm all of sudden?

[Dburr1014]

I apologize for real from everyone here. It seems like iv been running that wrong setup the whole 2 weeks. Should i only change DI? Or change the membrance and everything else after that big messed up?

Yup, only the di needs changing.

 

[glb]

That could do it.. It's called TDS Creep. When the system is off the TDS on the RO water side goes up. The first half gallon of water out of the RO is high in TDS, It will eat your DI resin up. Flushing the membrane does nothing as it is already on the RO water side. The way to solve this is to make large batches of water infrequently OR put a RO/DI Bypass valve in so you can collect the first 32-64oz of RO water before closing the valve and sending it to the DI canisters.

This. By flushing the membranes you bypass the DI resin and all the higher tds water clears the system. Do you have a flush valve on your system?

 

[glb]

FWIW, you will deplete the DI faster running the unit on short bursts, rather then long runs. Best to use the unit for large amounts of water, rather then turning it on and off for small amounts of water.

This is good advice. I make 10g at a time (weekly).

 

[glb]

Why the water is faster when flushing?

Because it’s bypassing the DI part of the process. The same thing happens with my unit. It’s totally normal!

 

[glb]

Glad you figured it out! No need to be embarrassed. We’ve all been there!

 

[Dburr1014]

Glad you figured it out! No need to be embarrassed. We’ve all been there!

There is an edit button. (Don't know if you knew this)

 

[glb]

There is an edit button. (Don't know if you knew this)

Why would I need to edit anything?

 

[Shirak]

Just so there is no confusion for anyone that has a flush valve installed on their system. These are on the waste line where the flow restrictor is installed. This valve when opened bypasses the flow restrictor to allow rapid volumes of water out the waste line. It 'flushes' stuff that is on the outside surface of the RO membrane only. It is supposed to eliminate anything that could be clogging the membrane and reducing water flow through it and reducing RO output.

This flush valve does not help remove the high TDS RO water that builds up on the system when the system is off and sitting for a while. To accomplish this you need to install a DI canister bypass valve in between the RO and DI portion of your system. Unfortunately most systems do NOT have anything like this installed. The alternative is to just use the system infrequently and make large amounts of water at a time. Your source water will also depend how bad the TDS Creep is. My water is very hard and when I first turn on my system the RO water is around 120ppm but quickly drops to 2-4ppm at which point I can then close the bypass valve and send water to the DI stages.

 

[homer1475]

This flush valve does not help remove the high TDS RO water that builds up on the system when the system is off and sitting for a while.

Hate to disagree with you, but thats exactly what the flush valve is supposed to do. Push low pressure water over the membrane to clean off any scale or high TDS from it sitting.

I will give you that it will push the high TDS through the DI without a bypass. But to say it does not "flush" the Ro membrane is just wrong.

 

[ScubaFish802]

Edit: just realized this is an old thread

 

[Shirak]

Hate to disagree with you, but thats exactly what the flush valve is supposed to do. Push low pressure water over the membrane to clean off any scale or high TDS from it sitting.

I will give you that it will push the high TDS through the DI without a bypass. But to say it does not "flush" the Ro membrane is just wrong.

You might want to reread what I said. I never said it doesn't flush the RO membrane. And I specifically said exactly what you just did. That it flushes the surface of the RO membrane to eliminate stuff that could be clogging it up.

"This valve when opened bypasses the flow restrictor to allow rapid volumes of water out the waste line. It 'flushes' stuff that is on the outside surface of the RO membrane only. It is supposed to eliminate anything that could be clogging the membrane and reducing water flow through it and reducing RO output."

I said it does not help eliminate the high TDS RO water that is in the system as a result of TDS Creep. Which I think we seem to agree on?

 

[Notsolostfish]

You might want to reread what I said. I never said it doesn't flush the RO membrane. And I specifically said exactly what you just did. That it flushes the surface of the RO membrane to eliminate stuff that could be clogging it up.

"This valve when opened bypasses the flow restrictor to allow rapid volumes of water out the waste line. It 'flushes' stuff that is on the outside surface of the RO membrane only. It is supposed to eliminate anything that could be clogging the membrane and reducing water flow through it and reducing RO output."

I said it does not help eliminate the high TDS RO water that is in the system as a result of TDS Creep. Which I think we seem to agree on?

Is 3ppm after the RO without DI is good? My unit tds built in showing 1. My pen showing 3. Or i nesd to change the membrance? Brs told me if tds goes up to 4 after RO no DI. Membrance needs changinf

 

[Shirak]

Is 3ppm after the RO without DI is good? My unit tds built in showing 1. My pen showing 3. Or i nesd to change the membrance? Brs told me if tds goes up to 4 after RO no DI. Membrance needs changinf

I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.

 

[Notsolostfish]

I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.

Left it running for few extra minutes. And it dropped to 2. My built in tds meter shows 1. So 1 difference.

 

[Notsolostfish]

I think 3 is fine. Could be better with your source water but it could also be the meter isn't perfect either. With 2 carbon blocks I don't think there is any damage to your membranes. Your DI will last a long time with 3ppm. Mine runs 2ppm and I make a hundred gallons of water a month and the DI lasts many months.

Can u help me connect the splitter and the valve?

 

[Shirak]

Can u help me connect the splitter and the valve?

Yes. Just remind me what the Y splitter was for?

 

[homer1475]

Easy peasy......

Take the hose going into the DI canister, plug it into the bottom of the valve. Run one side of the valve into the DI canister, the other to the flush valve.

Now take the splitter, and unplug the in from the flush valve and push that into the splitter(the side with one end), take the line from the valve, plug that into the splitter, and the regular waste line(the one that was plugged into the flush valve).

All done.

Now when you go to flush the unit, you turn the T valve so all the water goes to waste, nothing goes into the DI. Turn on your TDS meter, when the TDS comes down to 3(I think thats what you said?), turn the T valve so water now goes into the DI.

If you need pictures to help, let me know.

 

[Shirak]

Homer's way is good.

Personally I like to collect that first half gallon or so of RO water and use it around the house on plants and coffee/tea etc.

To do that you just use the 3 way valve on the RO line in between the RO and DI canister. So the order would be RO line, TDS meter, 3 way valve which then diverts to the RO drain line or DI. When first turning on the system divert the RO water out the RO Drain line until your meter reads 3ppm and then turn the valve so RO goes to DI.

The other flush valve you just leave as is.

I don't use a 3 way valve but my understanding is there is a right and wrong way. The two connectors opposite each other are the on and off sides depending which way the handle is pointing and the 3rd at 90 degrees is the common line water always flows.

 

[Notsolostfish]

Easy peasy......

Take the hose going into the DI canister, plug it into the bottom of the valve. Run one side of the valve into the DI canister, the other to the flush valve.

Now take the splitter, and unplug the in from the flush valve and push that into the splitter(the side with one end), take the line from the valve, plug that into the splitter, and the regular waste line(the one that was plugged into the flush valve).

All done.

Now when you go to flush the unit, you turn the T valve so all the water goes to waste, nothing goes into the DI. Turn on your TDS meter, when the TDS comes down to 3(I think thats what you said?), turn the T valve so water now goes into the DI.

If you need pictures to help, let me know.

Im going to do it once i get home from work. Yes pictures would be big help! Thank you so much