High Tin seems to be common

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BWilliby

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In reading a lot of posts on Triton, high Tin reporting seems to be common. I had that as well. On my first ICP test it read 22, so I looked and did find a couple of rusty screws in the canopy and removed them. I did the recommended 6 weeks of water changes, and everything is looking pretty good. So I sent in another ICP test and Tin is still high at 14. Why does high Tin seem so common, and is it really something to be that worried about if fish and corals are looking good?
 
Anecdotally speaking, we see a lot of Tin in new tanks, one theory is that it comes from the process of manufacturing "float" glass, as during the process the glass is floated on top of molten tin, this creates a "tin side" to the glass, ideally the tanks would then be constructed tin side out. Most of the time this is not the case. Generally the tin amount is finite and once it is removed via the corrective actions it does not come back.

As your Tin level is on it's way down then I would carry out any further corrections required and monitor with future tests.
 
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Anecdotally speaking, we see a lot of Tin in new tanks, one theory is that it comes from the process of manufacturing "float" glass, as during the process the glass is floated on top of molten tin, this creates a "tin side" to the glass, ideally the tanks would then constructed tin side out. Most of the time this is not the case. Generally the tin amount is finite and once it is removed via the corrective actions it does not come back.

As your Tin level is on it's way down then I would carry out any further corrections required and monitor with future tests.
Is Tin something that is easily removed via water changes or can it bind to things?
 
We recommend carrying out 4 to 6 15% water changes depending on the level. As long as the source is removed then it is usually dealt with vey quickly, obviously if the source comes from the glass itself then it can take a little longer.
 
Anecdotally speaking, we see a lot of Tin in new tanks, one theory is that it comes from the process of manufacturing "float" glass, as during the process the glass is floated on top of molten tin, this creates a "tin side" to the glass, ideally the tanks would then be constructed tin side out. Most of the time this is not the case. Generally the tin amount is finite and once it is removed via the corrective actions it does not come back.

As your Tin level is on it's way down then I would carry out any further corrections required and monitor with future tests.
Thanks for the quick response! That theory makes sense for new tanks, but mine was actually purchased used so it has had water in it for a couple years now. I wonder if that means I may have something else rusting somewhere in the system? I'll do a thorough search and continue with the recommended water changes. I sure hope this round solves it! Part of the appeal of the Triton method for me is not having to do regular water changes on my 450g system. [emoji6]
 
My tin levels jumped from 0.00 to 6.95 ug/L in 1.5 months between Triton tests, with no changes to the system during that period besides three water changes of <10% at roughly 2 week intervals.

My system has been operating for roughly 10 years in various forms. I am at a loss to explain these tin results, unless my topoff water contains elevated tin levels. There was no change to my RO/DI system or source water during that time either.
 
My tin levels jumped from 0.00 to 6.95 ug/L in 1.5 months between Triton tests, with no changes to the system during that period besides three water changes of <10% at roughly 2 week intervals.

My system has been operating for roughly 10 years in various forms. I am at a loss to explain these tin results, unless my topoff water contains elevated tin levels. There was no change to my RO/DI system or source water during that time either.

What additives/salts are you using? Could you share your results?
 
Tagging along... float glass theory is interesting.

Sent my 1st icp test in at the 2-month mark of a new setup: Sn 18µg/l
Treated the tank with Pantha Lith, then Detox, then 2x 15% water changes; 2nd icp test: Sn 9µg/l
4x 15% water changes and a month later, 3rd icp test: Sn 3.55µg/l

So I'm getting there!

M

PS Water changes are with Tropic Marin Pro.
 
What additives/salts are you using? Could you share your results?

Only Reef Crystals salt, feeding Reef Roids mixed with ~20% Reef Chili (2tbsp/feeding) and 5 drops of Kent Lugol's ~2x/week. Total system volume is around 480 gallons. Calcium Reactor with TLF Reborn media, nothing else added to tank except fish food. What is the best way to export the results?
 
My results also showed high sn reading(9). Previous zero. Acrylic tank. I can't find any metal in either the tank or sump. Would be nice to see how people's tanks with high sn are doing. I can't find any information on whether tin is good or bad! I'm also doing the water changes as suggested by triton,but after changing the water the question will be what to do if the tin comes back. I guess stop using the trition method, and do continual water changes. Anyone have any suggestions?
 
Ok, this is embarrassing. My chemistry has atrophied. It is my antimony that has jumped up, not my tin. :confused:

Any clue what a source of high antimony might be??
 

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