HOB filter killed fish or parasite?

Here is more info I found on velvet if that is what is going on.....And you do have to leave the tank sit fallow to make sure it is gone from your display.....but hopefully it is just ammonia...look carefully at the symptoms the fish displayed before they died.....

Marine Ich, Velvet or Coral Fish Disease

Learn to Diagnose and Treat Oodinium

BY STAN & DEBBIE HAUTER

Updated 06/01/18

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What is Oodinium?

Marine Ich, Velvet or Coral Fish Disease is caused from an infestation of the flagellation Amyloodinium ocellatum. A member of a large group of flagellate protists that are traditionally subdivided into two groups, the animal-like protozoa and the plant-like algae, Amyloodinium ocellatum belongs to the same group of single-cell alga organisms that cause red tides in marine waters.

Although this organism does not cause red tides, it is parasitic on fish at onestage in its life cycle, which depending on the temperature of the water can be completed in 6 to 12 days.

Due to the fact that this organism is able to reproduce so rapidly, when an Oodinium outbreak occurs in an aquarium and it is not immediately diagnosed and treated, being in a closed saltwater system it can reach overwhelming and disastrous numbers in a very short period of time. This type of ich is one of the most common causes of a wipeout, or an abrupt loss of all the fish in a saltwater aquarium.

The Life Cycle of Amyloodinium ocellatum

Free-swimming cells called dinospores are released from a mature cyst and go in search of a host fish. Typically these cells can survive seven to eight days without a host, but in lower tank temperatures at around 75-80 degrees, some strains may last up to 30+ days.

Once a host is found, typically heading for the soft tissue inside the gills first, the dinospores lose their swimming capabilities and become non-motile parasitic trophozoites. At this stage they turn parasitic, as each attaches to the host fish by sending out a filament for feeding.

After deriving nutrition for 3 days to a week the trophozoites become mature and drop off into the substrate, may remain hidden in the mucus membrane, or sometimes be deeply embedded in the tissue of a host fish, where at this point each forms a type of hard shell covering.

Inside each encrusted cyst the cells, now called tomonts, reproduce internally by non-sexual division. Upon reaching maturity in about five days, each cyst ruptures and releases hundreds of new free-swimming dinospores to start the cycle all over again, but in much large numbers.

Symptoms

Most similarly symptomatic to Brooklynella, Oodinium organisms primarily attack the gills first. At the onset of this ich infestation fish often scrap up against objects in the aquarium, lethargy sets in, and rapid respiration develops, which is the result of excess mucus in the gills due to the invasion of the parasites. This is typically noticed as fish staying at the surface of the water, or remaining in a position where a steady flow of water is present in the aquarium.

As the disease progresses outwards from the gills, the cysts then become visible on the fins and body. Although these cysts may appear as tiny white dots the size of a grain of salt, like the first sign of Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease, what sets Oodinium apart from other types of ich is that at this point the fish have the appearance of being coated with what looks like a whitish or tan to golden colored, velvet-like film, thus the name Velvet Disease.

Now in the advanced stage of the disease the production of gill and body mucus increases, the fish becomes listless, refuses to eat, and it's not unusual for a secondary infection to develop. For fish that reach this end stage of the disease, it's typically too late.

They usually do not respond to treatment, and most often will die.

Most Effective Treatments for Oodinium

Remove all fish from the main aquarium, give them a freshwater dip or bath, and then place them into a QT with vigorous aeration provided. Treat the fish in the QT with a copper-based medication per the manufacturer's product instructions. To address complications from secondary infections, also treat the fish with an appropriate antibiotic or anti-bacterial medication. Continue treating the fish in the QT until the ich appears to be gone, and then keep treating for another week after that.
 
Yea it looks like 5ppm ammonia from the pic, is that correct? Then it might be that, especially loosing all your inverts. I agree toss the hob, and do a very large water change, if you have no live stock in the tank I would do a 75% water change. If you still have live stock, a 50% water change will be ok, then keep testing until that ammonia reads 0.

All inverts alive and healthy, only lost fish .2 clowns I never found, dead fish may have been in there 2 days actually. Been working 12 hours a day and I looked before bed and saw no fish but figured sleeping.
 
Also to the op....do you have access to a LFS, so you can take a water sample up there, to confirm your test results? The reason I suggested that is because that looks like a API test kit, and I used to use them several yes ago when I was new to the hobby, and they never seemed to be that accurate.
 
Also to the op....do you have access to a LFS, so you can take a water sample up there, to confirm your test results? The reason I suggested that is because that looks like a API test kit, and I used to use them several yes ago when I was new to the hobby, and they never seemed to be that accurate.

I believe so, only 1 local other than petco. Clowns weren’t eating the day before they vanished but believe that could be due to high ammonia. That’s the only symptom beside the tang playing in Powerhead but he was a eater, all active and healthy.

Thing that shocked me was the goby jumping through the 2” of egg crate I ha e behind the mesh lol
 
Do you have any fish left? Or just inverts?

Before you panic, take care of the ammonia spike. Large WC and time

If there are no fish left, to be safe, leave the tank fallow for 76 days, that should take care of most of the possibilities.

If there are fish left in the tank, you should QT them and leave the tank fallow for 76 days.

That serves 2 purposes. Gets rid of alot of the possibilities that could have killed your fish and it let's your tanks cycle stabilize.

And for Pete's sake, get rid of the HOB please!
 
Do you have any fish left? Or just inverts?

Before you panic, take care of the ammonia spike. Large WC and time

If there are no fish left, to be safe, leave the tank fallow for 76 days, that should take care of most of the possibilities.

If there are fish left in the tank, you should QT them and leave the tank fallow for 76 days.

That serves 2 purposes. Gets rid of alot of the possibilities that could have killed your fish and it let's your tanks cycle stabilize.

And for Pete's sake, get rid of the HOB please!
Yea I totally agree with Maggie321! I know it is hard but do a huge water chg or a series of water changes to get ammonia to 0, then to rule out velvet or some other parasite leave the tank fishless for the 72 days before you add any more fish. Better to be safe then sorry! Also yea.... totally get rid of the HOB filter.
 
Do you have any fish left? Or just inverts?

Before you panic, take care of the ammonia spike. Large WC and time

If there are no fish left, to be safe, leave the tank fallow for 76 days, that should take care of most of the possibilities.

If there are fish left in the tank, you should QT them and leave the tank fallow for 76 days.

That serves 2 purposes. Gets rid of alot of the possibilities that could have killed your fish and it let's your tanks cycle stabilize.

And for Pete's sake, get rid of the HOB please!

Only snails crabs and gsp/gonoporia, all rush died same day which had me thinking that dang HOB prob released something. I could see funk when I pulled catridge and tank clouded right after, smh! Just keep thinking. Did some research and read stagnant/clogged water could poison fish or ammonia build up.


I had a HOB 10 years and never this haha craZy but I agree! Think it’s time for 65 and sump lol. I may try the molly test, I’m only at day 22 *** lol.
 
A hang on back filter can be used. I wouldn't use the cartridges though, but you can place media in it such as a bag of carbon, or some purigen or others.

I used a hob on a sumpless 55g and it was a successful tank. I also had a hob skimmer.

The hob will add flow. You can use poly fiber to pull floating debris out. Media as mentioned. You just need to maintain it, change or rinse the media with every water change, etc.
 
Only snails crabs and gsp/gonoporia, all rush died same day which had me thinking that dang HOB prob released something. I could see funk when I pulled catridge and tank clouded right after, smh! Just keep thinking. Did some research and read stagnant/clogged water could poison fish or ammonia build up.


I had a HOB 10 years and never this haha craZy but I agree! Think it’s time for 65 and sump lol. I may try the molly test, I’m only at day 22 *** lol.
Well you only have 54 days to go. Lol. It will be fast, so you better get on it if you are going to run a sump. You'll want it to be on line well before you hit the 76th day. I don't run a sump on mine. I got a hob reef octopus classic 100 skimmer and that is all the filtration I use. But I only have a 39g tank. I don't know how it would go with a larger tank and only a skimmer.
 
A hang on back filter can be used. I wouldn't use the cartridges though, but you can place media in it such as a bag of carbon, or some purigen or others.

I used a hob on a sumpless 55g and it was a successful tank. I also had a hob skimmer.

The hob will add flow. You can use poly fiber to pull floating debris out. Media as mentioned. You just need to maintain it, change or rinse the media with every water change, etc.



Thanks, flow was my goal...only used media while cycling and a bit after just to build up the cycle/beneficial bacteria. ;)
 
Well you only have 54 days to go. Lol. It will be fast, so you better get on it if you are going to run a sump. You'll want it to be on line well before you hit the 76th day. I don't run a sump on mine. I got a hob reef octopus classic 100 skimmer and that is all the filtration I use. But I only have a 39g tank. I don't know how it would go with a larger tank and only a skimmer.

Yea I need a new tank and all the other stuff so prob just keep what I got, simple and kids can’t get into the cabinet well they can but a sump would be way funner to play in lol.
 
Toss the HOB. They are terrible. I would run no filter before I would run a hob on a salt tank.

Here’s 3 years of using an AC70 hob filter. It’s not keeping them clean is when problems arise.
28A5F032-E1B0-4D01-A741-CB18C2A311DC.jpeg
 
Here’s 3 years of using an AC70 hob filter. It’s not keeping them clean is when problems arise.
28A5F032-E1B0-4D01-A741-CB18C2A311DC.jpeg
Wow, that is impressive. What's your maintenance routine look like to keep it up to par?
 
Wow, that is impressive. What's your maintenance routine look like to keep it up to par?

It’s now a frag tank but following a regimen daily and not giving up.

Daily
Dose 0.2 ml of Red Sea Coral Colors Part A, 4 drops
Dose 0.2 ml of Red Sea Coral Colors Part B, 4 drops
Dose 0.2 ml of Red Sea Coral Colors Part C, 4 drops
Dose 0.2 ml of Red Sea Coral Colors Part D, 4 drops
Feed 1 pinch of New Life Spectrum Marine Fish Formula
Feed 1 cap of Area 51 Phytoplankton
Measure pH
Measure Temperature

Weekly
Feed 12 drops of Poylp Lab Polyp Booster, twice weekly
Feed 1 cube of random SanFrancisco Bay Frozen food
Feed 0.1 tsp of Polyp Lab Reef Roids, 2 small white spoons twice weekly
Feed 1 square of Ocean Nutrition Green Marine Algae twice weekly
Clean AC70 filter
Mix Salt
Measure Nitrate
Measure Calcium twice weekly
Measure Alkalinity twice weekly
Measure Phosphate
Measure Salinity
Measure Magnesium
Change 2 gal of water

Every 2 weeks
Dose 3 ml of Vibrant

Monthly
Clean Light fixture and screen top
Clean ATO container
 
*Update ...now that I think any other thing or sign I could think of. Only other weird thing was my scopas tang swam back and forth in the back of the tank and very skittish. Now that sounds like velvet is a possibility. And maybe the coral beauty showed signs after 2 days due to exposure then just broke out.


Idk even know if that is possible maybe??

If I do start a new tank is there any reason. To start w fresh sand/water or am I ok using current if I wait 76 days with no worry?
 
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*Update ...now that I think any other thing or sign I could think of. Only other weird thing was my scopas tang swam back and forth in the back of the tank and very skittish. Now that sounds like velvet is a possibility. And maybe the coral beauty showed signs after 2 days due to exposure then just broke out.


Idk even know if that is possible maybe??

If I do start a new tank is there any reason. To start w fresh sand/water or am I ok using current if I wait 76 days with no worry?
I am the parinoid type....so if I had velvet I would probably start over just to be 100% sure.....but many people do the fallow period with great success and have no issues restocking their tank.... definitely read up on it for sure and then decide. It would probably be a lot less hassle doing a fallow period, then starting all over. Good luck and keep us posted!
 

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