Hospital tank taking forever to cycle

[easyautocare18]

I have trying to cycle my 20 gallon quarantine tank. I used doctor tims one and only 18 days ago. I have now cycled 2 tanks in less than 14 days. But this hospital tank is taking forever for the nitrites to drop they are staying around .25 to .5 ppm. I'm keep adding 20 drops of ammonia eveytime the ammonia drops to zero. I can add 20 drops of ammonia and in 24 hours the ammonia is 0ppm again. I read that the nitrites are not good for for our fish.

 

[Soren]

I have trying to cycle my 20 gallon quarantine tank. I used doctor tims one and only 18 days ago. I have now cycled 2 tanks in less than 14 days. But this hospital tank is taking forever for the nitrites to drop they are staying around .25 to .5 ppm. I'm keep adding 20 drops of ammonia eveytime the ammonia drops to zero. I can add 20 drops of ammonia and in 24 hours the ammonia is 0ppm again. I read that the nitrites are not good for for our fish.

Studies have shown that nitrites are not toxic to fish in marine environments like they are in freshwater environments.
I'll try to link sources when I find the links again.

Every time you dose ammonia, there will be even more nitrite produced as the ammonia is processed. If your ammonia additions are being consumed down to 0ppm in 24 hours, this tank should be cycled well enough for hospital purposes.
The best indicators of a properly-cycling tank are measured ammonia additions dropping to 0ppm in 24 hours and rising nitrates. Likely, you are getting a false indicator that nitrites are not being reduced since the level is holding constant due to the production of nitrites from the reduction of ammonia being as fast as the reduction of nitrites into nitrates.

What livestock are you planning to quarantine?
What biomedia do you have in the tank? ...what type(s) of filtration?

 

[Spare time]

Its done. Do a 100% water change (to get rid of the nitrates) and go forward. You are likely running into resolution issues, reading/testing errors, or the error range of the kit.

 

[easyautocare18]

Studies have shown that nitrites are not toxic to fish in marine environments like they are in freshwater environments.
I'll try to link sources when I find the links again.

Every time you dose ammonia, there will be even more nitrite produced as the ammonia is processed. If your ammonia additions are being consumed down to 0ppm in 24 hours, this tank should be cycled well enough for hospital purposes.
The best indicators of a properly-cycling tank are measured ammonia additions dropping to 0ppm in 24 hours and rising nitrates. Likely, you are getting a false indicator that nitrites are not being reduced since the level is holding constant due to the production of nitrites from the reduction of ammonia being as fast as the reduction of nitrites into nitrates.

What livestock are you planning to quarantine?
What biomedia do you have in the tank? ...what type(s) of filtration?

I bought a tang and he brought ick into my 75 gallon reef. I have 8 fish I have to move in the QT, so my reef can be fishless. So the ick will die out.

 

[easyautocare18]

I bought a tang and he brought ick into my 75 gallon reef. I have 8 fish I have to move in the QT, so my reef can be fishless. So the ick will die out.

 

[easyautocare18]

I'm suing a HOB filter with just bio bale thrown in the filter location. I took the spong and carbon filter out.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I have trying to cycle my 20 gallon quarantine tank. I used doctor tims one and only 18 days ago. I have now cycled 2 tanks in less than 14 days. But this hospital tank is taking forever for the nitrites to drop they are staying around .25 to .5 ppm. I'm keep adding 20 drops of ammonia eveytime the ammonia drops to zero. I can add 20 drops of ammonia and in 24 hours the ammonia is 0ppm again. I read that the nitrites are not good for for our fish.

Nitrite is deadly to FW fish, but it is completely non-toxic to marine fish (the sodium in seawater renders it safe). Try a search here for "stuck cycle" - it is pretty common for the bacteria that convert nitrite to nitrate to not grow properly at first. I've "unstuck" cycles using coca cola (not with fish in the tank of course). The sugar and phosphoric acid in the soda feeds that bacteria. Time also works (grin). The main thing is to ensure that the ammonia is being rapidly converted to nitrite. Also, your test kit may not be capable of measuring low amounts of nitrite, giving you false readings.

Jay

 

[Soren]

I bought a tang and he brought ick into my 75 gallon reef. I have 8 fish I have to move in the QT, so my reef can be fishless. So the ick will die out.

How big is the tang? What types and sizes are the other fish you are moving to QT?
This may be an overload for a 20g QT, both for ammonia concerns and for aggression risks if there are not enough hiding spots.

Do you have some form of caves or hiding spots in the QT, such as PVC pipe elbows?

Is your QT bare-bottom with no rock as would be typical for hospital tanks? Are you planning to medicate the fish in the hospital tank?

I'm suing a HOB filter with just bio bale thrown in the filter location. I took the spong and carbon filter out.

Based on recommendation from more experienced reef-keepers, I have had good success with the use of air-bubble sponge filters for QT's and also use them in my sumps. They are powered by an attached air tube from a standard aquarium bubbler.
I would recommend a large sponge filter to provide for mechanical filtration, surface area in the sponge for beneficial bacteria to grow and provide biological filtration, and the bubbles to provide some oxygenation and water movement in the QT.

 

[MnFish1]

Here is an example - In freshwater - IDK why my tanks are a disaster lately - I have 20 Stendker discus in a 200 gallon tank - I overfed - one day - and the filter - was less than efficient due to water level. the next morning 5 of them were standing on their heads - suggesting a swim bladder issue - but - I presumed nitrite toxicity - changed water - within an hour all were fine . In fresh water it is indeed much different - in salt - a non-issue agree with @Jay Hemdal

 

[easyautocare18]

How big is the tang? What types and sizes are the other fish you are moving to QT?
This may be an overload for a 20g QT, both for ammonia concerns and for aggression risks if there are not enough hiding spots.

Do you have some form of caves or hiding spots in the QT, such as PVC pipe elbows?

Is your QT bare-bottom with no rock as would be typical for hospital tanks? Are you planning to medicate the fish in the hospital tank?


Based on recommendation from more experienced reef-keepers, I have had good success with the use of air-bubble sponge filters for QT's and also use them in my sumps. They are powered by an attached air tube from a standard aquarium bubbler.
I would recommend a large sponge filter to provide for mechanical filtration, surface area in the sponge for beneficial bacteria to grow and provide biological filtration, and the bubbles to provide some oxygenation and water movement in the QT.

My qt is bar bottom, blacked out sides and bottom. Plenty of pvc hiding spaces. I have air bubble sponge filter ordered for 2 weeks now and still waiting on that. I'm gonna add that too. I have a wave maker in there. The tang is about 3 inches. I have 2 clowns, 2 lawnmowers, 1 cleaner goby, 1 tiny sand sifter goby and 2 pajama cardinals. That's it not to many I don't think and they are all small. Yes I'm gonna use cupramine to treat the tank. I also have a ammonia badge on there too.

 

[Soren]

My qt is bar bottom, blacked out sides and bottom. Plenty of pvc hiding spaces. I have air bubble sponge filter ordered for 2 weeks now and still waiting on that. I'm gonna add that too. I have a wave maker in there. The tang is about 3 inches. I have 2 clowns, 2 lawnmowers, 1 cleaner goby, 1 tiny sand sifter goby and 2 pajama cardinals. That's it not to many I don't think and they are all small. Yes I'm gonna use cupramine to treat the tank. I also have a ammonia badge on there too.

It sounds like you have a good plan in place. Hopefully treatment goes well!

 

[vetteguy53081]

My qt is bar bottom, blacked out sides and bottom. Plenty of pvc hiding spaces. I have air bubble sponge filter ordered for 2 weeks now and still waiting on that. I'm gonna add that too. I have a wave maker in there. The tang is about 3 inches. I have 2 clowns, 2 lawnmowers, 1 cleaner goby, 1 tiny sand sifter goby and 2 pajama cardinals. That's it not to many I don't think and they are all small. Yes I'm gonna use cupramine to treat the tank. I also have a ammonia badge on there too.

Your HOB power filter along with air stone and even the sponge filter should be adequate for flow. With cupramine, be sure to treat at .5 and monitor with a RELIABLE copper test kit and also Maintain Good water quality especially Ammonia also with a reliable kit versus badge with this amount of fish

 

[easyautocare18]

Your HOB power filter along with air stone and even the sponge filter should be adequate for flow. With cupramine, be sure to treat at .5 and monitor with a RELIABLE copper test kit and also Maintain Good water quality especially Ammonia also with a reliable kit versus badge with this amount of fish

I have my ammonia test kit also I will continue to test with and I have a api copper test kit. So with the air stone sponge filter and 30 gallon hob filter I want need a wave maker?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have my ammonia test kit also I will continue to test with and I have a api copper test kit. So with the air stone sponge filter and 30 gallon hob filter I want need a wave maker?

The water flow is more critical with coral but can be utilized and I urge to get a Hanna copper kit as you will get false readings with the Api copper and risk overdose

 

[easyautocare18]

The water flow is more critical with coral but can be utilized and I urge to get a Hanna copper kit as you will get false readings with the Api copper and risk overdose

Man those things are very expensive. Do you recommend the high range or low range model or Is there one that does both?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Man those things are very expensive. Do you recommend the high range or low range model or Is there one that does both?

High kit 0702. Ranges are either .5 or 2.5 depending on which product being used

 

[easyautocare18]

It sounds like you have a good plan in place. Hopefully treatment goes well!

Thank you, my wife is freaking out about the qt killing our fish because the cycle took so long. She really worried about them. I gotta make sure I do this right.

 

[easyautocare18]

Man I really can't afford a hanna checker right now. If I put the exact amount recommended dose and still be able to do the copper treatment. Money is realy tight right now and I didn't think I was gonna have to invest so much already to get this qt up and running and time it has taken me. My fish are very lucky to be as healthy as the are with ick in the tank. I have been dosing the reef tank for 3 weeks every night with herbtana and it works well by keeping my fish healthy enough to fight ick and not die. They have been needing qt for aleast a month now. I really need to get them in there. But I don't wanna kill them.

High kit 0702. Ranges are either .5 or 2.5 depending on which product being use

 

[pepper89]

Man I really can't afford a hanna checker right now. If I put the exact amount recommended dose and still be able to do the copper treatment. Money is realy tight right now and I didn't think I was gonna have to invest so much already to get this qt up and running and time it has taken me. My fish are very lucky to be as healthy as the are with ick in the tank. I have been dosing the reef tank for 3 weeks every night with herbtana and it works well by keeping my fish healthy enough to fight ick and not die. They have been needing qt for aleast a month now. I really need to get them in there. But I don't wanna kill them.

I do know they make API copper test kits, about $15 for 90 testers. They are your typical "compare the color to chart" so they aren't quite as accurate as a digital checker like Hana, but I used them forever in my freshwater days. TBH, I find those easier to read than a lot of the dip tests (it's drops in a vial of tank water).

 

[vetteguy53081]

I do know they make API copper test kits, about $15 for 90 testers. They are your typical "compare the color to chart" so they aren't quite as accurate as a digital checker like Hana, but I used them forever in my freshwater days. TBH, I find those easier to read than a lot of the dip tests (it's drops in a vial of tank water).

The density of saltwater changes this. It takes one false reading to overdose and copper becomes a poison than curative