How can I make my RODI unit better?

nova65ss · Sep 18, 2013

So this is my first setup making my own water. I have been buying water from LFS for five plus years expensive I know but I have always been paranoid about making it myself. I want to completely eliminate my water from a problem with my tank and would like to know what I can do with this unit to make it better. Talking with LFS has given me a good idea but would like to hear from others as well. This is what I have now

BRS 5 Stage RO/DI System - 75GPD - Bulk Reef Supply

I talked with LFS about adding a chloramine filter but they feels there really isn't a filter that really removes them even though they say they do? So right now I am thinking of adding an additional chloramine filter and another DI?

Also how would you route the lines after making any adjustments to what I have now.

Is there anything you can suggest that would help? Thanks!

robbrouse · Sep 18, 2013

Are you getting 0 TDS out of the unit now? I've seen some people do the 2nd DI filter.

nova65ss · Sep 18, 2013

robbrouse said:
Are you getting 0 TDS out of the unit now? I've seen some people do the 2nd DI filter.

Yes the meter shows around 2 coming in to the meter and zero going out. Thanks

robbrouse · Sep 18, 2013

If you are getting 0 TDS why do you want to do anything else to it? I'm sure it's better than what you were getting at the fish store. At least with you own you can control how often filters are changed.

A whole home water softener would also be good, but not a cheap addition...

nova65ss · Sep 18, 2013

Just paranoid I guess I know the lfs I get my water from is better than this BRS setup. I know we are on a community well here and the water company adds chloramines so concerned with that also. I guess I was just wondering if there are better or different filters I can be using or add to this setup to make it work better. I also wonder how accurate the tds meter is? Thanks

robbrouse · Sep 18, 2013

I've also wondered about the TDS meters as well. Wonder if they need to be replace every so often.. Mine about 2 years old same unit as yours.

NanaReefer · Sep 18, 2013

That is a very good RO/DI unit you have. If you are getting 0 TDS that is great! Stop with the paranoia

cdness · Sep 18, 2013

I made mine better a few different ways...

1. Add another TDS meter to show you your supply TDS and the TDS of the water out of the RO. I then have the other TDS meter to show TDS after the first DI canister and TDS after the second DI canister.

2. If you are on a well that has high sediment or rust, consider adding a second sediment filter to make sure you catch the sediment before it hits the carbon block. You can tell if the first sediment filter is bleeding through by the color change on the second filter.

3. If you run a good carbon block, only one is needed. This reduces the cost of the filter replacements and lets you burn through the cheaper filters to protect the better carbon block. Cloramine removing blocks or catalytic carbon are not needed if you use a quality carbon block to begin with.

4. I run a dual DI that started as the Spectrapure MaxCap system. While it is a great system, I didn't get the returns as expected from the provided resins due to my high CO2 content. So I converted it to a mixed bed dual DI. I test the water after the first cartridge to tell when it needs to be replaced. The second cartridge makes sure no im-pure water gets through. When a change is needed, I put the second cartridge into the first location and the new one in the polishing second stage. You are one canister and a TDS meter away from DIYing your own MaxCap hardware.

5. Add an additional pressure gauge after the pre-filters so you can tell what your supply pressure is at as well as the pressure after the sediment and carbon filters. Your pre-filters are good until either the 6 month mark hits to do regular maintenance or your pressure drops significantly. The only way to tell if there is a pressure drop is with an additional gauge. If the pressure drops and you don't know, your RODI unit will operate at a lessened efficiency and waste lots of water. Just because a filter looks dirty, doesn't mean it is shot and needs a replacement. This was a hard lesson to learn and I saved a ton by utilizing the second pressure gauge.

6. BRS sells an automatic electronic RODI shutoff system where if a leak is detected it will shut the system feed down. I highly recommend this as it has saved me numerous times from major flood status...

That's all I have for you... Maybe I'll think of more.

rako1 · Sep 18, 2013

Im Not sure if BRS di removes silica but spectrapure has the silicabuster di cartridges you might want to change to

nova65ss · Sep 18, 2013

NanaReefer said:
That is a very good RO/DI unit you have. If you are getting 0 TDS that is great! Stop with the paranoia

I know you are probably right but better safe than sorry!

cdness said:
I made mine better a few different ways...

1. Add another TDS meter to show you your supply TDS and the TDS of the water out of the RO. I then have the other TDS meter to show TDS after the first DI canister and TDS after the second DI canister.

2. If you are on a well that has high sediment or rust, consider adding a second sediment filter to make sure you catch the sediment before it hits the carbon block. You can tell if the first sediment filter is bleeding through by the color change on the second filter.

3. If you run a good carbon block, only one is needed. This reduces the cost of the filter replacements and lets you burn through the cheaper filters to protect the better carbon block. Cloramine removing blocks or catalytic carbon are not needed if you use a quality carbon block to begin with.

4. I run a dual DI that started as the Spectrapure MaxCap system. While it is a great system, I didn't get the returns as expected from the provided resins due to my high CO2 content. So I converted it to a mixed bed dual DI. I test the water after the first cartridge to tell when it needs to be replaced. The second cartridge makes sure no im-pure water gets through. When a change is needed, I put the second cartridge into the first location and the new one in the polishing second stage. You are one canister and a TDS meter away from DIYing your own MaxCap hardware.

5. Add an additional pressure gauge after the pre-filters so you can tell what your supply pressure is at as well as the pressure after the sediment and carbon filters. Your pre-filters are good until either the 6 month mark hits to do regular maintenance or your pressure drops significantly. The only way to tell if there is a pressure drop is with an additional gauge. If the pressure drops and you don't know, your RODI unit will operate at a lessened efficiency and waste lots of water. Just because a filter looks dirty, doesn't mean it is shot and needs a replacement. This was a hard lesson to learn and I saved a ton by utilizing the second pressure gauge.

6. BRS sells an automatic electronic RODI shutoff system where if a leak is detected it will shut the system feed down. I highly recommend this as it has saved me numerous times from major flood status...

That's all I have for you... Maybe I'll think of more.

Thanks so much that is exactly the stuff I was looking for I appreciate you writing all that down very helpful!

rako1 said:
Im Not sure if BRS di removes silica but spectrapure has the silicabuster di cartridges you might want to change to

I have heard this as well will look into that thanks!

AZDesertRat · Sep 18, 2013

Using a good temperature compensated handheld TDS meter what is your tap water TDS, RO only TDS and RO/DI TDS. These numbers are used to calculate your rejection rate or membrane efficiency which is the heart of the system. You want at least 96% rejection but for every 2% you can improve this number you will double your DI life with no other changes. If you don't have a handheld you can get one from Buckeye Field Supply or Spectrapure for $20-$25 and they are much more accurate and versatile than inlines which are not truly temperature compensated so can be significantly off unless your air and water temps are exactly the same.
What is your exact measured waste ratio? What is your water temperature and your water pressure at the membrane? How long does your DI cartridge or refill last you currently?'

Your system may be perfectly fine as it is but you need to answer the above questions to be sure, even small improvements can be big money savers over the life of the system.

RedReefer · Sep 18, 2013

I think your good quit being so paranoid. If I added anything it would be a chloramine filter. Call BRS tell them your concerns see what they say.

AZDesertRat · Sep 18, 2013

Don't waste your money on chloramine filters, they are totally unnecessary. Even if your utility uses chloramines versus free chlorine a single good quality 0.5 or 0.6 micron extruded carbon block is more than sufficient for removal of the chlorine portion of chloramines and to break the bond with the ammonia portion.
The tough part of chloramines is the ammonia portion which carbon does not remove and the RO membrane is only partially effective at so good DI is where to spend you hard earned money IF you have chloramines. A dual DI or single full size refillable DI with quality resin and properly packed is essential for ammonia removal.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm