How did YOU beat Dinos?
- Thread starter PokeFish
- Start date
- Tagged users None
kartrsu
Well-Known Member
Depends on the type. UV was most effective on those entering water column. Introducing real live stuff from ocean took care of those that stay put. Nutrients did not help much or would have taken too long. Fwiw, my nutrient levels are leaner than when I had dinos, but don’t have a dino problem now after the methods I mentioned above.
So I just had a double header in my tank. Had Dino growing in my refugium and cyano in my display...
Chaeto would never grow in the fuge and any time I tried to increase nutrients by feeding the cyano would explode.... Each time I measure nutrients they were also 0 or near 0.
Im 2 weeks out of treating with chemi-clean. Cleaned out my fuge and put in some Ulva. Nitrates are sticking around 5-10 and PO is about .2-.5. Looks like some Dino is still growing in the fuge, but at a much lower rate now that I'm actually growing Ulva.
Chaeto would never grow in the fuge and any time I tried to increase nutrients by feeding the cyano would explode.... Each time I measure nutrients they were also 0 or near 0.
Im 2 weeks out of treating with chemi-clean. Cleaned out my fuge and put in some Ulva. Nitrates are sticking around 5-10 and PO is about .2-.5. Looks like some Dino is still growing in the fuge, but at a much lower rate now that I'm actually growing Ulva.
don_chuwish
Smells something fishy
Blackout for 3-4 days, several times. They came back a little less each time until not at all.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
First time, raised nutrients above 0 and 3 day blackout. Caught them early on, so they were easy to defeat.
This second time, I have elevated nutrients(10 and .1 respectively), but still got dinos! This time around, large UV, and 3 day blackout.
I honestly beleive you cannot totally defeat them without UV regardless of the type of dino's you have.
This second time, I have elevated nutrients(10 and .1 respectively), but still got dinos! This time around, large UV, and 3 day blackout.
I honestly beleive you cannot totally defeat them without UV regardless of the type of dino's you have.
I agree. A uv is doing many things other than killing stuff by damaging its reproductive dna. Its also destroying urea by photolysis, changing the state of minerals in the water. Its a tripple whammy to dinos. My tanks back to normal now where pods came back, and sponges too. I like my uv and think it's beneficial to my tank.
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
I would 100% agree with you here. While I have never been a big proponent of UV, after buying a decent unit, and leaving it running after the dino's. I'm now a firm believer in UV running 24/7.
I cannot 100% say for sure if it's the UV, but I no longer have a cyano issue(have cyano in my sandbed that I suck out weekly for a few years now), and my water just looks clearer.
Yes pretty much the same experience for me excpet my sump is a cyano factory now lol. It wasnt before. It doesnt grow in the tank surprisingly though at all. Ive found it loves my red refugium led for some reason. I noticed it engulphs and covers the hair algae growing in there with it and consumes it as the hair algae starts to die from oxygen starvation i presume. Hair algae is cyano food?
homer1475
Figuring out the hobby one coral at a time.
Had the same issue with my fuge. What I ened up doing is putting a small PH in with the chaeto. It kept it moving so cyano never got a chance to take hold. If you notice cyano likes low flow areas, with a PH in the sump, cyano never gets a chance to settle.
Ive suspected this. And your right its lowish flow for sure. Ill increase the flow soon when my new panworld 200ps arrives (going to do a closed loop of sorts). Thanks for the tips.
Chrille26
Active Member
I managed to get rid of dinos a while ago, and it hasnt shown up again.
I ran UV through the display, I stopped doing water changes, I dosed beneficial bacteria and I siphoned as much dinos as I could through a 20 micron filter. I then poured the clean water back into the system.
All this and just time, time for the system to stabilize and time for all the different approaces to take effect.
I ran UV through the display, I stopped doing water changes, I dosed beneficial bacteria and I siphoned as much dinos as I could through a 20 micron filter. I then poured the clean water back into the system.
All this and just time, time for the system to stabilize and time for all the different approaces to take effect.
AfaceInTheCrowd
Active Member
H2o2 dosing
josephxsxn
Mixed Reef Peninsula
I don't know that I would say I have beaten it by any means but I thought the Dino-X manual was a very good read and had information about dinos I have not read anywhere else. Right now positive Phosphates and nitrates, daily filter sock changes, increased temp to 83f, 2 day blackout, reduced to 6 hour photo period with no whites seems to have taken out at least 95% of the growth in my tank thus far without using Dino-X.
jordan9095
Active Member
elegant corals modified method using two different types of bacteria (something like wasteaway and one & only), increased aeration, blackouts, and bunch of macroalgae in the sump after turning lights back on. also put a UV sterilizer in the return line
AfaceInTheCrowd
Active Member
I don’t know the “science” behind it, but it does temporarily raise ORP, it makes your water sooo clear when dosing.. so I wonder if ozone would also kill it off based on this fact?
