How did you determine your control board layout?

[400BA]

Good evening, everyone -

For those of you with control boards, what process did you go through to determine the layout and location of your control board? I used Sketchup to create what you see below for the tank I am building

If you've got any lessons learned from the process you went through or anything you would change about your board, let us all know! Any advice is welcome.

Thanks,

Mike

 

[SuncrestReef]

Here are some tips that come to mind:

1. Position each module in a way that makes it easy to access the plug-in ports. In particular, the EB832 has those 1Link and 24v Accessory ports on the left side, so be sure you have enough room to visually see those ports and to get your hand in there to plug in and disconnect cables. My EB832 was mounted at the back of my cabinet, so I couldn't see those ports and any time I wanted to swap out my WAVs for cleaning I had to feel around to get the 1Link cables plugged back in. It sometimes took over 5 minutes fumbling around until I found the socket.

2. Be sure anything containing liquid (such as the DOS) is not above any other electronics so you don't accidentally drip liquid where it shouldn't go.

3. Plan ahead for maintenance. If you bundle all your cables neatly and zip-tie them together, it will make it very difficult to trace a wire or replace a component when you're troubleshooting or performing routine maintenance.

4. Label each end of EVERY cable. And if possible, label each port on each module.

At first glance, your layout looks good. Just be sure you left enough room to the left of those EB832's as explained above.

 

[400BA]

Here are some tips that come to mind:

1. Position each module in a way that makes it easy to access the plug-in ports. In particular, the EB832 has those 1Link and 24v Accessory ports on the left side, so be sure you have enough room to visually see those ports and to get your hand in there to plug in and disconnect cables. My EB832 was mounted at the back of my cabinet, so I couldn't see those ports and any time I wanted to swap out my WAVs for cleaning I had to feel around to get the 1Link cables plugged back in. It sometimes took over 5 minutes fumbling around until I found the socket.

2. Be sure anything containing liquid (such as the DOS) is not above any other electronics so you don't accidentally drip liquid where it shouldn't go.

3. Plan ahead for maintenance. If you bundle all your cables neatly and zip-tie them together, it will make it very difficult to trace a wire or replace a component when you're troubleshooting or performing routine maintenance.

4. Label each end of EVERY cable. And if possible, label each port on each module.

At first glance, your layout looks good. Just be sure you left enough room to the left of those EB832's as explained above.

EXCELLENT feedback Suncrest! Thank you!

 

[Flameback Pair]

@400BA checkout Neptune Systems forum on their website. You can print out templates for all Apex models there. Then tape the templates to the board. They have places to drill holes marked on them. Also ensures enough height above the modules for clearance to slide them up to dismount.

 

[400BA]

Awesome! Thank you, Powers!

 

[Koigula]

The most important thing about the control area is to keep it dry and use industrial grade equipment. All equipment shown in mock up will fail in 10 years and most in 5 years.

Ill post a few pictures of mine later.

 

[400BA]

Thanks, iffy! Posting your would be very helpful.

question: failure in 5 -10 years because of brand or because of environment?

 

[400BA]

“Iggy”

 

[Calm Blue Ocean]

The only tip I have is to consider where all the cables will go when everything is plugged in and hooked up. I found a few of my cables were not as flexible as I'd anticipated and couldn't get around controllers mounted below them. A couple more inches of space and it would have worked. And a +1 to keep maintenance in mind. I want to be able to pull any device from my system and not have to disassemble the world to do so.

 

[Koigula]

Sure! Here is a used electrical panel in a utility / storage room.

System is dry and isolated on two panel 20 amp GFI circuits and neither circuit use more than 7 or 8 amps ever. Two Tunze stream pumps are isolated on other circuit than Apex brain with 24v deep cycle circuit and NOCO 24v marine battery tender.

Most tanks never make 5 or 10 year mark because of electrical and equipment failure. I feel I have a chance wit this set up. Apex is definitely used as less is more just for monitoring despite what it may look like. I replaced power supplies with industrial power supplies and use no expansion modules for APEX. Dedicate IP address is also important.

Only change planned is to retire the lighting rats nest and use an ATI power module with one cord on other circuit than the Apex. Ecotechs are old and not a fan.

Most recent failure was Apex Classic Brain. It was old. Prior to that was a Kessil refugium light. I bought last Bimini reflector from Hamilton recently to have a halide refugium!I would really not have sink over a sump. Experience is everything that can go wrong will.

Features that are helpful are Apex heartbeat function, with several test
Ensuring Apex is on dedicated IP. Easy on new Uverse routers.
Used industrial equipment is more reliable than any hobby grade equipment and often same price.

 

[Flameback Pair]

@400BA here is controller board with templates taped. That way you can get modules as close as possible and still have enough space for lifting off mount tab and space for cords. Let me know if you need any help.

 

[Koigula]

I would be very careful extending Apex with many modules. Less os more and monitoring is way better than controlling anything other than simple events.

 

[400BA]

Thank you all for the feedback. I'm learning as I go here, so hearing from everyone is very helpful.

 

[Flameback Pair]

I would be very careful extending Apex with many modules. Less os more and monitoring is way better than controlling anything other than simple events.

@400BA I disagree with @iggy the Apex is designed to control and does so well with complicated events. The Apex is getting easier with all the task functions and the like. There are more and more modules, probes, and 3RD party compatible equipment coming along all the time.

 

[400BA]

Understood.

 

[Koigula]

Most people learn things the hard way. Once you are out of town the BS with hobby grade equipment will start. There are many that can confirm this.

This does not have to be this complicate just very reliable.

 

[400BA]

I'm sure I'll be learning a little bit the hard way as well as from others (the "easier" way). Thank you both for your help.

 

[Koigula]

It is your tank so experiment as you wish.

I settled on bare minimum automation by lack of replacement and necessitiy

1. OSC 000:00/02:00 /090:00 to dose kalk - I dose from a 5 gallon jug filled weekly so no catastrophy can occur
2. timed event for a magnesium mix
3. refugium timed event
4. T5 lighting timed event.

For automation after ensuring the fix IP setting are working I have the following monitoring

++ two dedicated GFI circuits from home panel
++ enable Apex Heartbeat and test before trips. (comes disabled I think)
++ pH protection to shut off Kalk (or Soda Ash)
++ break out box to monitor circuits and power supplied as moderate to advanced

Power outages are the real reef killers.

I have stand alone 24V circuit to run Tunze stream pumps with 12 marine batteries by a custome indutrial relay switch. This has worked well numerous times. Simulated power outage and see how much stuff comes back online or stays down. I don't use DC pumps either.