How do I add a different return?

Hilltopreef90

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I bought this aquarium used and they have it set up so the return goes across the entire tank through a piece of pvc pipe with holes drilled into it. It definitely creates a lot of flow but regardless how I set the pump it causes so much splashing that I’m constantly dealing with salt creep and it’s not removable so I can’t clean it.
Im wondering if I can just cut it and add another type of nozzle, if so what would be a good choice ? I’m pretty sure it’s glued into the fittings so I’m going to need to cut it.
See photos attached
A61EF395-17FC-4128-8114-CD46B8C42DEB.jpeg
20676F62-CB3B-4439-9226-E1569B05C28A.jpeg
 
Loc line return nozzle!

8607959B-06FE-4A39-B924-EBCC4F5AD199.jpeg
CBC08CD2-544E-4169-9339-C26A97DD00FD.jpeg


You can also just cut and make something similar with PVC (with elbows). It might not look as professional if you use the white PVC though.
 
Loc line return nozzle!

8607959B-06FE-4A39-B924-EBCC4F5AD199.jpeg
CBC08CD2-544E-4169-9339-C26A97DD00FD.jpeg


You can also just cut and make something similar with PVC (with elbows). It might not look as professional if you use the white PVC though.
I would second this. Just cut where your arrow is add a coupling and this lock line.
 
If you are sure it's glued in, yes, you will have to cut it. Have you tried to remove the bulkhead?
Lol, I had to look up what a bulk head is
No, and I think the previous owner put a type of epoxy all around the bulk head coming from the tank to the sump because something was leaking. I guess it worked because I’ve not had any problems with leaks.
I’m going to need to do the work with the tank full and just drain enough to be able to keep the pipe dry while working.
 
Lol, I had to look up what a bulk head is
No, and I think the previous owner put a type of epoxy all around the bulk head coming from the tank to the sump because something was leaking. I guess it worked because I’ve not had any problems with leaks.
I’m going to need to do the work with the tank full and just drain enough to be able to keep the pipe dry while working.
I’m illiterate about plumbing, but always eager to learn. I looked up couplings and there’s several kinds. What would be the easiest way to add a coupling so I can attach a flow kit like those mentioned and can it be done so that I’m able to remove the nozzle to clean when needed ?
 
What I’m wondering about is will I need to glue one end of the coupling to the pipe where I cut it since it obviously won’t have threads ?
Yes, you will need to cut the existing pipe, and then use PVC solvent to glue the threaded fitting to the cut end for the Loc-Line to screw into. It is not hard to do, but if you are unfamiliar with it, you may want to seek assistance from someone who is familiar with plumbing.

You can also do it without gluing, just a pressure fit as the joint is 'inside' your tank, but if the fitting slips off, it will create quite a mess depending on where the water is hitting.
 
Here is what I would do in your predicament, cut the pipe at the arrow.
Take the pipe to your local hardware store. Tell them you need a fitting to slip on to this pipe but the other end needs a 3/4 npt female thread.
In the mean time: buy loc-line as described above with 3/4 male thread.
When you gather all the pieces it will all seem easy.
I just realized you said you tank is running, can you measure the pipe outside diameter(OD)? This is all you need to know to get the fitting you need from the hardware store.
Edit; one more thing, I added a small hole maybe 1/8" facing down on the plumbing. You can do this on the coupling you buy at the hardware store. It needs to actually spray water when the pump is running so put the hole far enough out so the pipe doesn't cover it.
Reason being if you have a power outage or you need to turn the pump off, this hole will break your syphone so you don't flood your sump.
 
Last edited:
I’m illiterate about plumbing, but always eager to learn. I looked up couplings and there’s several kinds. What would be the easiest way to add a coupling so I can attach a flow kit like those mentioned and can it be done so that I’m able to remove the nozzle to clean when needed ?
You’ll learn a whole lot with this so just do it. Drain your water down below the return pipe so you can work and not be inside the water. Cut the pipe right behind the first hole. Get a coupling that has push fit on one side and threaded on the other. Put the pvc glue on the press fit and push it on there. Wait about 30 mins for it to dry food and then screw the lock line on.
 
Here is what I would do in your predicament, cut the pipe at the arrow.
Take the pipe to your local hardware store. Tell them you need a fitting to slip on to this pipe but the other end needs a 3/4 npt female thread.
In the mean time: buy loc-line as described above with 3/4 male thread.
When you gather all the pieces it will all seem easy.
I just realized you said you tank is running, can you measure the pipe outside diameter(OD)? This is all you need to know to get the fitting you need from the hardware store.
Edit; one more thing, I added a small hole maybe 1/8" facing down on the plumbing. You can do this on the coupling you buy at the hardware store. It needs to actually spray water when the pump is running so put the hole far enough out so the pipe doesn't cover it.
Reason being if you have a power outage or you need to turn the pump off, this hole will break your syphone so you don't flood your sump.
Here is what I would do in your predicament, cut the pipe at the arrow.
Take the pipe to your local hardware store. Tell them you need a fitting to slip on to this pipe but the other end needs a 3/4 npt female thread.
In the mean time: buy loc-line as described above with 3/4 male thread.
When you gather all the pieces it will all seem easy.
I just realized you said you tank is running, can you measure the pipe outside diameter(OD)? This is all you need to know to get the fitting you need from the hardware store.
Edit; one more thing, I added a small hole maybe 1/8" facing down on the plumbing. You can do this on the coupling you buy at the hardware store. It needs to actually spray water when the pump is running so put the hole far enough out so the pipe doesn't cover it.
Reason being if you have a power outage or you need to turn the pump off, this hole will break your syphone so you don't flood your sump.
Ok, I can do this
As far as the 1/8 hole I’m assuming I’d drill it on the side or facing down to read the water ?
As far as flow , I have 2 MP 40’s, so with those and using the loc line nozzle kit should there be enough flow in my tank ?
I’m planning to add an air stone as well partly for decoration but also for added water movement
My display tank is 90 gallons
 
I’m planning to add an air stone as well partly for decoration but also for added water movement
Air stones are not the best for saltwater because they cause a lot of saltcreep. Get powerheads instead.
 
You’ll learn a whole lot with this so just do it. Drain your water down below the return pipe so you can work and not be inside the water. Cut the pipe right behind the first hole. Get a coupling that has push fit on one side and threaded on the other. Put the pvc glue on the press fit and push it on there. Wait about 30 mins for it to dry food and then screw the lock line on.
T
Air stones are not the best for saltwater because they cause a lot of saltcreep. Get powerheads instead.
even if it’s at the bottom of the tank ? I have a little groot air stone figure that I’d also though about growing gsp or another type coral on its head
 
T

even if it’s at the bottom of the tank ? I have a little groot air stone figure that I’d also though about growing gsp or another type coral on its head
The bubbles will rise to the top and cause misting which will lead to salt creep.
 
Looks like the plumbing is 3/4 inch?

Heres is what I would do:
Cut the pipe just inside the overflow box, and install one of these:


Snub it out so the threaded end just reaches the overflow. The this will screw into the PVC fitting allowing you to install some locline:


Then install some locline anyway you choose with the RFG nozzles on the end.
 
FWIW, you do not need to glue anything together. There is not enough pressure to blow fittings apart that far up.

Just cut out the pipe, slide the fitting on, and install some locline. Easy peasy.
 
As far as the 1/8 hole I’m assuming I’d drill it on the side or facing down to read the water ?
Yes, hole faces down. It's just incase the end of the loc-Line is below the water surface. When pump is off, water will flow to the sump thru the pipe until the end of the pipe is exposed. The hole will introduce air so not much water will be siphoned back to the sub. It's more of an insurance policy.
 
I would second this. Just cut where your arrow is add a coupling and this lock line.
Yes, hole faces down. It's just incase the end of the loc-Line is below the water surface. When pump is off, water will flow to the sump thru the pipe until the end of the pipe is exposed. The hole will introduce air so not much water will be siphoned back to the sub. It's more of an insurance policy.
As far as the loc line return is there one type better then others ? Do I need a dual one or is a single nozzle fine for a 90 gallon tank
 

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