How do I plumb a sump?

[Lalaallieu]

I have looked everywhere for a good video on how to plumb my sump. I'm thinking (unless I really can't figure this out) to use a 10g tank as a sump for a 40g display tank. I have found the marine depot overflow 300 for this tank. But I don't get how to plumb it. I'm not comfortable drilling the tank as I already ended up cracking one getting it into my vehicle. Well (I didn't, Petco cracked it technically) so I'm afraid drilling will crack it. So HOB is what i'm looking at now. So I have the overflow. How do I get it from the back of my tank to the sump? And then the sump water back into the tank? What size pump? I'm going to use two 565 hydor koralia powerheads. I read online the pump back to the tank is a calculation with all the other stuff you have in your tank. I already have the 40 g display tank, putting doors on my stand, just have to get some hinges for the doors, and then I'll be good to stain.

Lauren

 

[ScottieB]

Sounds like your off to a good start. Unfortunately I cant tell you much about the HOB overflow, I dont have any experience with them. I imagine someone on here does. There is a lot of folks on here that cant or wont drill so thats ok if you want to go that route. You can also look for 10 gallon sump idea, that will help with the layout.

The return pump will get the water back to the tank. Things to consider should be reliability, noise level and vibration (depending on the location), does it fit inside the area of your sump you designate and it probably only needs to push about 5x tank volume. That's like 200-400 gph? A DC pump is adjustable so that might be something to consider and allow for more fine tuning.

I don't think we really use the return pump to factor in the over-all flow calculation through the tank since its job is basically to deliver water the the heater and the protein skimmer (or refugium, or live rock, or UV filter, etc). I have a 300g and run about 1-2x turnover through the sump, basically just enough to keep the temperature consistent.

I'm happy to follow along and see how things go.

 

[Jamesrup0411]

What do you plan on putting in the sump? I’d shoot for the biggest gallon tank that I could fit into the stand.

 

[sarcophytonIndy]

Use a submersible DC return pump, and then there is no reason to drill the sump.

The BRS videos have some good plumbing advice,

 

[Phildago]

Use a submersible DC return pump, and then there is no reason to drill the sump.

The BRS videos have some good plumbing advice,

Idk about that. I have a submersible and dislike it. It's harder to clean the area around the pump and get coated in muck, takes up sump space, potentially leaves you limited with pump size due to space constraints and generates unwanted heat in the summer months.

I highly regret not drilling my sump

 

[sarcophytonIndy]

Idk about that. I have a submersible and dislike it. It's harder to clean the area around the pump and get coated in muck, takes up sump space, potentially leaves you limited with pump size due to space constraints and generates unwanted heat in the summer months.

I highly regret not drilling my sump

Your points are valid, but in my situation the submersible return makes sense. I have a 55 gal tank as a sump (added my own baffles), so I have plenty of room in the sump and not much outside the sump. Plus, these DC return pumps have a very small footprint. Also, the tank is in my finished basement, so heat transfer to water is not really a concern. Also, I don't worry about my sump cracking or leaking.

 

[Dragon52]

This is from Marine Depot. Checkout the video The main problem with these overflows is loosing suction in the overflow U-Pipe. This will happen as air bubbles tend to show up in the top of the pipe. The Tom's Aqualifter pump will help. The 2nd Video explains how it works. Since your overflow is not the CPR one it doesn't have the nipple on top. H ow I fixed mine to work with it was to drill a small hole in the top of the u-pipe (Dead Center) & add a nipple to it. You can pick those up at your LFS.

Choosing an Aquarium Overflow - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.marinedepot.com

 

[sarcophytonIndy]

This is from Marine Depot. Checkout the video The main problem with these overflows is loosing suction in the overflow U-Pipe. This will happen as air bubbles tend to show up in the top of the pipe. The Tom's Aqualifter pump will help. The 2nd Video explains how it works. Since your overflow is not the CPR one it doesn't have the nipple on top. H ow I fixed mine to work with it was to drill a small hole in the top of the u-pipe (Dead Center) & add a nipple to it. You can pick those up at your LFS.

Choosing an Aquarium Overflow - Bulk Reef Supply

Bulk Reef Supply - Saltwater Aquarium Supplies for Reef Tanks

www.marinedepot.com

Even better is if you can achieve sufficient flow through the Utube that any bubbles get sucked through by the strong current and don’t accumulate at the top

 

[Dragon52]

Even better is if you can achieve sufficient flow through the Utube that any bubbles get sucked through by the strong current and don’t accumulate at the top

That's true but mine never did, over time I always ended up with Air in the top & would eventually have to restart the suction. I eventually went to the Shadow overflow & drill the back of my tank for it. Haven't had anymore issues.

 

[125mph]

You need to get an overflow, and depending on how the overflow is designed, you would need to drill the thein the back panel or in the bottom of the main tank. From there, the water flows throught he overflow into the pipes that you insert, into the sump.... Then there is another pipe that uses a return pump that pushes water back to your main tank (which of course need holes drilled too).

Your local shop should be able to drill all the holes for you for a fee.

My tank is designed very similar to BRS's video. I have the shadow overflow.

 

[Tamberav]

I have looked everywhere for a good video on how to plumb my sump. I'm thinking (unless I really can't figure this out) to use a 10g tank as a sump for a 40g display tank. I have found the marine depot overflow 300 for this tank. But I don't get how to plumb it. I'm not comfortable drilling the tank as I already ended up cracking one getting it into my vehicle. Well (I didn't, Petco cracked it technically) so I'm afraid drilling will crack it. So HOB is what i'm looking at now. So I have the overflow. How do I get it from the back of my tank to the sump? And then the sump water back into the tank? What size pump? I'm going to use two 565 hydor koralia powerheads. I read online the pump back to the tank is a calculation with all the other stuff you have in your tank. I already have the 40 g display tank, putting doors on my stand, just have to get some hinges for the doors, and then I'll be good to stain.

Lauren

Make sure to get a quality HOB overflow as they are at increased risk for flooding. I had an eshopps one flood before, I always drill now.

Also get a larger tank then 10g as your sump has to be able to handle any of the water drained below the overflow. Go for a 20g Long imo.

Then you just buy a submersible pump and pump the water back to the tank over the side. Your overflow will come with a rating it can handle.

How you do your plumbing will depend on the overflow, some have 1 drain, some have 2. Noise is a concern with many of the hob overflows.

 

[madweazl]

Typically, something like this connects your overflow box to the bulkhead at your sump. For a 40g, the Eheim 1250 would be an excellent choice for a trouble free return pump.

 

[125mph]

Typically, something like this connects your overflow box to the bulkhead at your sump. For a 40g, the Eheim 1250 would be an excellent choice for a trouble free return pump.

That link is no bueno. Doesnt work.

 

[madweazl]

Should be fixed now, thanks.

 

[Dom]

May I suggest a 20 gallon long for a sump?

The price point between a 10 and a 20L is negligible and you'll have a lot more room for things like a skimmer and a refugium.