How do you introduce New fish to your aquarium?

[Amberlyn22092]

I will be setting up my first tank and I will be taking my time to do it and it will be a couple months before I get any fish. But due to where I live I need to order my fish online. Im worried about diseases so what do you guys do to prevent diseases and parasites on new fish?
What are good websites that you guys have had good experiences with order fish online?
What are good general medications I could possibly use to give the fish before introducing it to my aquarium that wont stress the fish out more then it already will be?

 

[Smprc]

You are going to get a million answers. So here is my method. I follow humblefish's CP (chloroquine phosphate) guide. I have 2 to 3 QT tanks running at all times. 2 20g and 1 10g. I use Liveaquaria (LA). Fish comes in, I float bag 15 to 20 minutes, I open bag and clip to edge and add 1/2 cup of aquarium water every 5 minutes until full, empty as much water out and repeat that process. This can go for at least an hour if not more.
Once fish is in the tank, I let them be and after several hours introduce food.
IF the fish is CP sensitive then they go into a non medicated tank and I observe for a minimum of 30 days, I do add prazi.
I only prophylactically treat with prazi. I do not use any other meds unless I see symptoms. Meds on hand, include General Cure, Kanaplex and Metroplex. As well as focus for the binding agent.
I used to do tank transfer method, but I feel that really stresses the fish out, however if I see ich and they are CP sensitive I will not hesitate to do it.
Please read through humblefish's threads.
Good luck

 

[Amberlyn22092]

You are going to get a million answers. So here is my method. I follow humblefish's CP (chloroquine phosphate) guide. I have 2 to 3 QT tanks running at all times. 2 20g and 1 10g. I use Liveaquaria (LA). Fish comes in, I float bag 15 to 20 minutes, I open bag and clip to edge and add 1/2 cup of aquarium water every 5 minutes until full, empty as much water out and repeat that process. This can go for at least an hour if not more.
Once fish is in the tank, I let them be and after several hours introduce food.
IF the fish is CP sensitive then they go into a non medicated tank and I observe for a minimum of 30 days, I do add prazi.
I only prophylactically treat with prazi. I do not use any other meds unless I see symptoms. Meds on hand, include General Cure, Kanaplex and Metroplex. As well as focus for the binding agent.
I used to do tank transfer method, but I feel that really stresses the fish out, however if I see ich and they are CP sensitive I will not hesitate to do it.
Please read through humblefish's threads.
Good luck

Thanks so much for your input. Ill look up humblefishs thread right now!

 

[BeejReef]

Great question, great foresight.

Only thing is you're asking how a watch works ;Smuggrin

If you look in the fish disease forum, there are a number of stickies that can walk you through QT and acclimation options.
You need to decide on your philosophy first.. lol. QT with full meds, observational QT (treat as needed), or no QT.

I'll not wade into that debate.

You might also read up on some of the more specialized acclimation methods some people use for shipped fish.... especially if it takes longer than one day.

Best of luck

 

[Bryce M.]

Again don't want to spark in debate but to show you how diverse the opinions are here are, I don't QT. I make sure I buy from good sources and even then, yes I know I'm running through a fire maze blind folded with two scissors in my hands. IMO it puts too much stress on them even after going across the whole country in a plane. But that's my thoughts, not looking to debate.
I only do QT and medicine tanks if a fish gets sick.
EDIT
right, this is about acclimation not QT
I float my fish for about 10-15 minutes then I drip them for about an hour or so.

 

[Amberlyn22092]

Again don't want to spark in debate but to show you how diverse the opinions are here are, I don't QT. I make sure I buy from good sources and even then, yes I know I'm running through a fire maze blind folded with two scissors in my hands. IMO it puts too much stress on them even after going across the whole country in a plane. But that's my thoughts, not looking to debate.
I only do QT and medicine tanks if a fish gets sick.
EDIT
right, this is about acclimation not QT
I float my fish for about 10-15 minutes then I drip them for about an hour or so.

It seems cut down the middle whether to QT or not. In life with my kids and myself I don't beleive in antibiotics unless in severe cases. I just dont want to see my tank crash. Are there ever severe cases that anyone has heard of where they bought a new fish and theyre fish got sick and all died before given the chance to medicate them? I do plan on testing frequently and also frequent water changes. I saw how Humblefish has a tank with black damsels because they are more like to get sick and I thought that was a good idea so Im going to look into perhaps doing that.

 

[BeejReef]

Yeah, there are plenty of cases of what you describe. If you're caught in the middle ideologically, an observational quarantine might be for you. Just a smaller tank that the fish go into for a few weeks before a transfer to the DT. If they get sick, you can medicate them.

In any event, whether you choose to introduce the fish to the DT and hope they are healthy and treat if they are not OR if you decide on some sort of QT, the fact remains you'd be well served to have a second tank. Most/many fish illness treatments can not be done in your display tank.

It's also helpful in your situation where all of your fish orders are likely to be from online. With a small qt tank, you can match the salinity to the bag water and forego drip acclimation... less chance of ammonia burn from a fish sitting in badly polluted water and a rapid increase in ph when the bag is opened.

In fish circles, we tend to get into heated discussions about the use of copper more so than antibiotics.. lol.

 

[Smprc]

I'm going to chime in once again. Are diseases a real thing? Yes they are. With that said, understand that a fish, just like any other living organism in this world, will have pathogens that are specific to them. But I will tell you this. It is ALL about the health of the fish that matters most. You will always hear about tank crashes and losses, and at the same time you will hear about people that just float and drop in the fish and "never" have losses or disease outbreak. I'm only 2 years in and after dozens, yes dozens of losses, I realized that its about keeping the fish as healthy as possible and reducing stress. Thats why I no longer do TTM. and that's why I now take almost 2 hours to acclimate the fish and do my best to keep water conditions as pristine as possible. A healthy fish will survive and non-healthy one will get sick. Health fish have thick slime coats that aid them in disease prevention and stressed out one doesn't have one as efficient. Point...you will worry yourself to death if you focus so much on preventing catastropohic loss that you lose sight of the fun. So do your best to prevent the disease, chose if QT is right for you and honestly thats all you can do.

 

[Bryce M.]

I'm going to chime in once again. Are diseases a real thing? Yes they are. With that said, understand that a fish, just like any other living organism in this world, will have pathogens that are specific to them. But I will tell you this. It is ALL about the health of the fish that matters most. You will always hear about tank crashes and losses, and at the same time you will hear about people that just float and drop in the fish and "never" have losses or disease outbreak. I'm only 2 years in and after dozens, yes dozens of losses, I realized that its about keeping the fish as healthy as possible and reducing stress. Thats why I no longer do TTM. and that's why I now take almost 2 hours to acclimate the fish and do my best to keep water conditions as pristine as possible. A healthy fish will survive and non-healthy one will get sick. Health fish have thick slime coats that aid them in disease prevention and stressed out one doesn't have one as efficient. Point...you will worry yourself to death if you focus so much on preventing catastropohic loss that you lose sight of the fun. So do your best to prevent the disease, chose if QT is right for you and honestly thats all you can do.

yup, and remember death is always watching, just your job to give your fish a good life

 

[Luis1992]

I try and keep it simple. Always qt for a month. Then out in a breeder for at least a few days more. Then in an in tank refugium to see how fish react

 

[Bryce M.]

I try and keep it simple. Always qt for a month. Then out in a breeder for at least a few days more. Then in an in tank refugium to see how fish react

that's a good one, simple quick, less stress. I actually really like that QT set up

 

[Bryknicks]

I'm going to chime in once again. Are diseases a real thing? Yes they are. With that said, understand that a fish, just like any other living organism in this world, will have pathogens that are specific to them. But I will tell you this. It is ALL about the health of the fish that matters most. You will always hear about tank crashes and losses, and at the same time you will hear about people that just float and drop in the fish and "never" have losses or disease outbreak. I'm only 2 years in and after dozens, yes dozens of losses, I realized that its about keeping the fish as healthy as possible and reducing stress. Thats why I no longer do TTM. and that's why I now take almost 2 hours to acclimate the fish and do my best to keep water conditions as pristine as possible. A healthy fish will survive and non-healthy one will get sick. Health fish have thick slime coats that aid them in disease prevention and stressed out one doesn't have one as efficient. Point...you will worry yourself to death if you focus so much on preventing catastropohic loss that you lose sight of the fun. So do your best to prevent the disease, chose if QT is right for you and honestly thats all you can do.

Out of curiosity, what do you believe stresses the fish with TTM or what have you personally had issues with? I ask because I have been successful with TTM but not as much with hospital tanks and treatments for ich. I find it much harder to keep quality water while medicating rather than the TTM method. I have yet to lose a fish to TTM and have been successful. As long as you are adding an airstone the only issue I have seen could be the ammonia raising but I just change a little water out if I'm not on a transfer day.

 

[Amberlyn22092]

Whats TTM?

 

[madweazl]

I'm polar opposite to many here. I look at 'em for any obvious issues, float 'em for 10-15 minutes, test the salinity and if it's close, I toss 'em in the tank. If the salinity is lower (99% of the time it is), I'll do an acclimation by adding some of my tank water to the bag every 10-15 minutes until the salinity is close.

 

[DaneGer21]

I have them introduce themselves by name proceeded by hugs and handshakes

 

[mike550]

@Amberlyn22092 Great question and really appreciate your foresight.

I think the best acclimation process is the one that works for you. For me (I’ve ordered from LiveAquaria and local stores) I have a 20G QT. I acclimate per the LiveAquaria method. Fish are placed in QT and lights are off for first few days. So ambient light only.
I observe for a couple of weeks but only medicate if I see a problem. When the fish is eating and acting “normal” then I will transition to DT. I will also do a freshwater dip as a double check and then DT

 

[southerntnreefer]

I tried horribly to QT, lost a ton of stuff, some likely my fault, some likely my not. had a battle with What i can only assume is Velvet in that QT episode with a trio of pakistani butterfly fish Tore down the QT bleach bath to everything, and then upgraded the QT to a 60 gallon. I dont add alot of fish to the tanks these days. ( 32 and 220) i will be on the new 72 soon enough though, that im likely going to pay the price and use marine collectors or another high end company, and then setup a holding tank possibly for good measure. When fish do go in say the 220, i kill the lights on the show tank before i leave for the shop to pick up somnething.

Usually i have picked it out the week before, leave it at LFS to make sure were eating etc. ( i shop at a very small LFS so i have this ability) I then take 5 gallons from the sump, and replace it with new, and put it in a 5 gallon bucket with an airstone and heater.

Once i get home, i float the new fish on that bucket in complete darkness. once it comes to temp, i release the fish, by putting a hole in the bag, and allowing the water to mix a bit to ease the fish into the " system"

Then i treat with a paraguard dip for an hour before heading to the show tank.

depending on what i release and how many at once, lights usually stay off until the next day to allow everyone to come to terms to the change. I then would introduce food then.

 

[Smprc]

Out of curiosity, what do you believe stresses the fish with TTM or what have you personally had issues with? I ask because I have been successful with TTM but not as much with hospital tanks and treatments for ich. I find it much harder to keep quality water while medicating rather than the TTM method. I have yet to lose a fish to TTM and have been successful. As long as you are adding an airstone the only issue I have seen could be the ammonia raising but I just change a little water out if I'm not on a transfer day.

I agree with you and truthfully I have successfully TTM several of my fish including at one point my particular most prized one the achilles tang. And again, this is all anecdotal stuff, but I soon begain to experience losses just during the TTM, and thats when I began the CP. As I said before, I won't hesitate to do it and I have gotten lazy. TTM is quite a bit of work. Could be also that I at times used my DT water for the TTM and I am sure my DT water isn't disease free anymore, so that could very well be an issue. So yeah, I don't have a solid answer, just that CP has worked a little better for me and the fish seem to do better the less they are transferred I guess.