How effective/safe is dino x?

[doubleshot00]

im on dose 8 of dino X. initially i was being conservative with treatment and only dosing 4ml per 26 gallons. directions say 5. i had no issues. i started being an idiot and dosing 7ml because im stupid, and its def hurting my favia and xenia. all my inverts and fish are fine. It did kill everything beneficial, like copepods, phyto, diatoms, but it is also definitely killing my dino lol. dino is all but gone. the question now is, should i keep going and for how long. i think imma cut back on dose to 4ml per 26gallons again and do a couple more treatments.

IMO if you have a microscope; DinoX should have been a last resort. Hope your on Macks page on FB if you need help. Good luck

 

[Reef Puncher]

IMO if you have a microscope; DinoX should have been a last resort. Hope your on Macks page on FB if you need help. Good luck

Just an update. The Dino x killed all my sps and torches. Im so not happy.

 

[DrMMI]

Just an update. The Dino x killed all my sps and torches. Im so not happy.

I'm sorry to hear that. I'll never use that stuff again. What ultimately worked multiple times for me was doing elegant corals dino treatment.

 

[tbasinger]

I had Dino’s, I turned off my protein skimmer stopped doing water changes for a bit and started dosing bacteria and carbon from the zeovit system and it went away

 

[taricha]

Just an update. The Dino x killed all my sps and torches. Im so not happy.

thanks. In my experience it seems to be a chemically a stronger/ harsher algaecide than the more common algaefix etc.

 

[Reef Puncher]

thanks. In my experience it seems to be a chemically a stronger/ harsher algaecide than the more common algaefix etc.

I would highly recommend the stuff for people with fish only tanks. it did work and killed all my dinos. its just i cant recomend if you have sps. and even for LPS people should cut the recomended dose in half in my experience. or cut the time down that its administred.
i followed the directions, dosed 5ml per 25 gallons as directed, for 3 weeks. my losses didnt occur till end of third week. on thier site they say dino's release toxins which is usually the cause for loss but i vacuumed out 95% of the dinos prior to starting so i know its not dino toxins that did it.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

Dino x didn't help at all. It killed my torch, acro frags, and Montis. Stressed out the rest of my euphyllia. I'm pretty sure it also killed my cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, and brittle star. Eventually whatever wasn't killed did recover. What finally worked for my dinos was doing elegant corals dino treatment 3 weeks in a row and adding a bunch of live rock covered in gha from an 8 year old reef tank that was being broken down. I was good until I did a series of large water changes to bring my nitrates down to over 100 to less than 10 in a week. Dinos were coming back but no where near as bad as they used to be. I don't know if the 80w pentair UV had anything to do with that or the fact that I never let my nutrients get to 0. Before it gets any worse, I'm doing a 3 day blackout followed by another course of elegant corals treatment. Moral of the story, I'm never using dino x again.

They probably were poisoned by an over dose or the toxins from the Dino. I’ve contacted the company who makes it and they said it’s unlikely it would kill shrimp. I

 

[Reef Puncher]

They probably were poisoned by an over dose or the toxins from the Dino. I’ve contacted the company who makes it and they said it’s unlikely it would kill shrimp. I

yea dino X will kill corals, but for inverts it shouldnt hurt em. all my shrimp, snails, starfish, everything was fine, but it did kill all my SPS and alot of my LPS

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

yea dino X will kill corals, but for inverts it shouldnt hurt em. all my shrimp, snails, starfish, everything was fine, but it did kill all my SPS and alot of my LPS

I have 3 lps if they died I don’t care I have more soft corals leathers etc that I like more to be honest.

Hopefully the softies are more hardy. Apparently they said corals should be fine so long as you don’t over dose.

I have watched many vids and peoples corals are fine? Did you over dose!?

I ever watched cleaning and maintenance professional use it on very large and expensive reefs with 0 issues

 

[Reef Puncher]

I have 3 lps if they died I don’t care I have more soft corals leathers etc that I like more to be honest.

Hopefully the softies are more hardy. Apparently they said corals should be fine so long as you don’t over dose.

I have watched many vids and peoples corals are fine? Did you over dose!?

I ever watched cleaning and maintenance professional use it on very large and expensive reefs with 0 issues

they are lying. its not just me with this experience, tons. i watched lous videos. hes right about alot, but wrong that it doesnt harm corals. im one of the most calculated, careful, science based reefers. i would not make the mistake of overdosing. i actually underdosed out of fear of negative repurcussions. Fauna will tell people either they overdosed, or that they lost all their corals because the dinos dying released toxins. both were not true in my case, not only were my species not that toxic, but i manually removed most of them. there is zero chance that the hundreds of ppl with my experience all overdosed. the directions are very clear.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

they are lying. its not just me with this experience, tons. i watched lous videos. hes right about alot, but wrong that it doesnt harm corals. im one of the most calculated, careful, science based reefers. i would not make the mistake of overdosing. i actually underdosed out of fear of negative repurcussions. Fauna will tell people either they overdosed, or that they lost all their corals because the dinos dying released toxins. both were not true in my case, not only were my species not that toxic, but i manually removed most of them. there is zero chance that the hundreds of ppl with my experience all overdosed. the directions are very clear.

Well I’m willing to loose corals because if this doesn’t work, I’m freaking done with saltwater all together. It’s been nothing but h*ll since I started it. Been nothing but a waste of my time and money and for What? I get the same love out of my freshwater tanks.

I do not love this saltwater tank I am actually hating it, not sure why anyone would bloody stay with this when these freaking dinos keep taking hold over and over and over and over and over. I’m tired of this. Im over it.

I’m at the point where I’m fine loosing all the bloody corals if it means no more Dino. I’ll just keep the inverts and the fish at that point because im
Over this crap. Everyday it’s getting worse and worse.

I’ve wasted my time and money on this tank buying bacteria, pods, silicate dossing, two powerful UV filters, nutrient dosing and monitoring, siphoning (only making it worse). All the advice I’ve taken from the stores and from people here have NOT HELPED so, I’m at the point where I’m fine risking it with Dino x if that means it’s gone, doesn’t come back.

 

[Reef Puncher]

Well I’m willing to loose corals because if this doesn’t work, I’m freaking done with saltwater all together. It’s been nothing but h*ll since I started it. Been nothing but a waste of my time and money and for What? I get the same love out of my freshwater tanks.

I do not love this saltwater tank I am actually hating it, not sure why anyone would bloody stay with this when these freaking dinos keep taking hold over and over and over and over and over. I’m tired of this. Im over it.

I’m at the point where I’m fine loosing all the bloody corals if it means no more Dino. I’ll just keep the inverts and the fish at that point because im
Over this crap. Everyday it’s getting worse and worse.

I’ve wasted my time and money on this tank buying bacteria, pods, silicate dossing, two powerful UV filters, nutrient dosing and monitoring, siphoning (only making it worse). All the advice I’ve taken from the stores and from people here have NOT HELPED so, I’m at the point where I’m fine risking it with Dino x if that means it’s gone, doesn’t come back.

ok well the dino X will work...but..... if you dont fix the underlying issue, they will come back. dino's usually only come in newish tanks, meaning tanks setup within the first year. because usually after the first year, corraline algae starts growing, and it outcompetes the dino. its why so many clean salt tanks are not new tanks. i wish you had come to me sooner i could have helped you through this. im the top contributor on the macks dinoflaggelate support group.
Dinos move in to new systems that have voids in the ecosystem. often times people use dry rock, not live rock, and it takes a while for benefical bacteria to flourish, just takes time. the best thing you can do is try to outcompete the dino, so after your done with dino X, dose silicates and keep your nutrients up, dont ever let your phosphates and nitrates get to zero. thats all you really need to test frequently. at least once every 4 days while you have dino. often times peoples filtration is so good, and the tank isnt being fed enough, or have enough fish, to keep nutrients up. so people actually dose nitrates and phosphates. so i would dose those, and silicates once dino X is done. that will help keep them from coming back. silicates are the substance that diatoms are made of, the more thats in your tank, the more diatoms grow. diatoms are a brown almost dino looking algae, but they are VERY easy to get rid of, and they will outcompete the dino for resources. buy this.
link link here click here
that is enough to last you years. also, MAKE SURE YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT ON MORE THAN 6 hour peak. if you want to run it 8-10, with just a slight bit of blue only in the evenings, thats fine, but keep it blue only and down low in intensity. DINO's THRIVE in strong light. ask me if you have any questions, im currently coaching a dozen people through it right now.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

ok well the dino X will work...but..... if you dont fix the underlying issue, they will come back. dino's usually only come in newish tanks, meaning tanks setup within the first year. because usually after the first year, corraline algae starts growing, and it outcompetes the dino. its why so many clean salt tanks are not new tanks. i wish you had come to me sooner i could have helped you through this. im the top contributor on the macks dinoflaggelate support group.
Dinos move in to new systems that have voids in the ecosystem. often times people use dry rock, not live rock, and it takes a while for benefical bacteria to flourish, just takes time. the best thing you can do is try to outcompete the dino, so after your done with dino X, dose silicates and keep your nutrients up, dont ever let your phosphates and nitrates get to zero. thats all you really need to test frequently. at least once every 4 days while you have dino. often times peoples filtration is so good, and the tank isnt being fed enough, or have enough fish, to keep nutrients up. so people actually dose nitrates and phosphates. so i would dose those, and silicates once dino X is done. that will help keep them from coming back. silicates are the substance that diatoms are made of, the more thats in your tank, the more diatoms grow. diatoms are a brown almost dino looking algae, but they are VERY easy to get rid of, and they will outcompete the dino for resources. buy this.
link link here click here
that is enough to last you years. also, MAKE SURE YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT ON MORE THAN 6 hour peak. if you want to run it 8-10, with just a slight bit of blue only in the evenings, thats fine, but keep it blue only and down low in intensity. DINO's THRIVE in strong light. ask me if you have any questions, im currently coaching a dozen people through it right now.

I have been testing my nitrate and phos mate. It got to 0.0. After discussing this with a specialist the reason it went from steady nutrients to 0.0 was because the dinos were consuming it before showing themselves. That’s why they believe you get 0.0 readings not because the tanks dropped, because the dinos have used it before even showing itself which makes a lot of sense actually.

Even now my nitrate is 2-5 phos .05 and still these things grow like wildfire. So sorry, NO nitrate and phos do not aid in getting rid of the Dino alone. Im
Sorry in my experience with Dino you’re not correct.

I dosed silicates, had Dino AND bloody nasty diatoms. diatoms used up the silicates and the dino was STILL there.

Then I dossed microbacter for weeks NO HELP.

Then I added live pods known to eat Dino NO HELP.

Then I bought 1 UV filter, didn’t help then I bought a second NO HELP.

I raised the PH and KH NO HELP.

I raised the temp, NO HELP.

I cut the lighting down PAR and duration, NO HELP.

I used H2O2 NO HELP.

after dosing neonitro I had a massive hair algae outbreak which got swarmed with more Dino!

I have corraline algae growing mate, beautiful green/pink. All the shells on the sand bed are covered with it. If your theory is right, why hasn’t that helped!??

I think you think you understand this more than you do. Im
Not trying to offend, I used live rock from the shop and paid a lot for it here in Canada. I also used live sand.

The issue was, I had stocked more corals recently and I think that’s how the Dino got in! I saw a slimy brown piece on the cabbage corals and I thought I got it off in the 15 min dip. Clearly I didn’t.

I even bought more live rock to try and add more biodiversity, didn’t work.

I have pineapple sponges that have populate like mad because of the nitrate dosing.

I also began adding reef plus and feeding Live Phyto. I think this actually fed the Dino and caused a huge issue.

Also, how can the Dino come back???? Dino x is supposed to kill it for good?

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

ok well the dino X will work...but..... if you dont fix the underlying issue, they will come back. dino's usually only come in newish tanks, meaning tanks setup within the first year. because usually after the first year, corraline algae starts growing, and it outcompetes the dino. its why so many clean salt tanks are not new tanks. i wish you had come to me sooner i could have helped you through this. im the top contributor on the macks dinoflaggelate support group.
Dinos move in to new systems that have voids in the ecosystem. often times people use dry rock, not live rock, and it takes a while for benefical bacteria to flourish, just takes time. the best thing you can do is try to outcompete the dino, so after your done with dino X, dose silicates and keep your nutrients up, dont ever let your phosphates and nitrates get to zero. thats all you really need to test frequently. at least once every 4 days while you have dino. often times peoples filtration is so good, and the tank isnt being fed enough, or have enough fish, to keep nutrients up. so people actually dose nitrates and phosphates. so i would dose those, and silicates once dino X is done. that will help keep them from coming back. silicates are the substance that diatoms are made of, the more thats in your tank, the more diatoms grow. diatoms are a brown almost dino looking algae, but they are VERY easy to get rid of, and they will outcompete the dino for resources. buy this.
link link here click here
that is enough to last you years. also, MAKE SURE YOUR LIGHTS ARE NOT ON MORE THAN 6 hour peak. if you want to run it 8-10, with just a slight bit of blue only in the evenings, thats fine, but keep it blue only and down low in intensity. DINO's THRIVE in strong light. ask me if you have any questions, im currently coaching a dozen people through it right now.

And I am
Over stocked in my fish tank with fish. I added more to keep up the nitrates and even that I still have an issue getting them to climb so yes I dose neonitro

 

[Reef Puncher]

I have been testing my nitrate and phos mate. It got to 0.0. After discussing this with a specialist the reason it went from steady nutrients to 0.0 was because the dinos were consuming it before showing themselves. That’s why they believe you get 0.0 readings not because the tanks dropped, because the dinos have used it before even showing itself which makes a lot of sense actually.

Even now my nitrate is 2-5 phos .05 and still these things grow like wildfire. So sorry, NO nitrate and phos do not aid in getting rid of the Dino alone. Im
Sorry in my experience with Dino you’re not correct.

I dosed silicates, had Dino AND bloody nasty diatoms. diatoms used up the silicates and the dino was STILL there.

Then I dossed microbacter for weeks NO HELP.

Then I added live pods known to eat Dino NO HELP.

Then I bought 1 UV filter, didn’t help then I bought a second NO HELP.

I raised the PH and KH NO HELP.

I raised the temp, NO HELP.

I cut the lighting down PAR and duration, NO HELP.

I used H2O2 NO HELP.

after dosing neonitro I had a massive hair algae outbreak which got swarmed with more Dino!

I have corraline algae growing mate, beautiful green/pink. All the shells on the sand bed are covered with it. If your theory is right, why hasn’t that helped!??

I think you think you understand this more than you do. Im
Not trying to offend, I used live rock from the shop and paid a lot for it here in Canada. I also used live sand.

The issue was, I had stocked more corals recently and I think that’s how the Dino got in! I saw a slimy brown piece on the cabbage corals and I thought I got it off in the 15 min dip. Clearly I didn’t.

I even bought more live rock to try and add more biodiversity, didn’t work.

I have pineapple sponges that have populate like mad because of the nitrate dosing.

I also began adding reef plus and feeding Live Phyto. I think this actually fed the Dino and caused a huge issue.

Also, how can the Dino come back???? Dino x is supposed to kill it for good?

dino X is only active in the system so long. dino flagellates exist in coral, called zooxanthellae. they can always come back. and i do understand this well. there is a reason 1000s of people on macks dino support group on facebook, have success stories. and if im wrong, then every expert on that group is wrong, because i learned everything from them and from helping others with the problem.

your expecting fast results, the dosing of bacteria and silicates and nutrients is NOT fast, it can take months. it sounds like you were doing alot right though...... this method is called the natural method, but it sucks because its a slow process.

but try the dino X. let me know what happens.
for me, week 1, i saw a reduction, week 2, most were gone, week 3, all gone but thats also when corals started dying.

there is one other option. called a moe kayed wand. seen here this link its a UV wand designed for use on dinos that dont migrate into the water column. for dinos where a normal external UV sterilizer in the water doesnt work. you stick the wand in the tank and run it over the dinos. takes about 5 min a day. everyone swears it cooks the dinos, works, and has no negative effects on corals. alot of people swear there sand and rocks are clean after a few weeks treatment.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

dino X is only active in the system so long. dino flagellates exist in coral, called zooxanthellae. they can always come back. and i do understand this well. there is a reason 1000s of people on macks dino support group on facebook, have success stories. and if im wrong, then every expert on that group is wrong, because i learned everything from them and from helping others with the problem.

your expecting fast results, the dosing of bacteria and silicates and nutrients is NOT fast, it can take months. it sounds like you were doing alot right though...... this method is called the natural method, but it sucks because its a slow process.

but try the dino X. let me know what happens.
for me, week 1, i saw a reduction, week 2, most were gone, week 3, all gone but thats also when corals started dying.

there is one other option. called a moe kayed wand. seen here this link its a UV wand designed for use on dinos that dont migrate into the water column. for dinos where a normal external UV sterilizer in the water doesnt work. you stick the wand in the tank and run it over the dinos. takes about 5 min a day. everyone swears it cooks the dinos, works, and has no negative effects on corals. alot of people swear there sand and rocks are clean after a few weeks treatment.

Can you send a photo of the wand?

I also tried all the bacteria and pods for months been doing this mate for nearly a year with very little results.

How do the dinos come out of the corals!?? I thought they were non-mobile?

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

dino X is only active in the system so long. dino flagellates exist in coral, called zooxanthellae. they can always come back. and i do understand this well. there is a reason 1000s of people on macks dino support group on facebook, have success stories. and if im wrong, then every expert on that group is wrong, because i learned everything from them and from helping others with the problem.

your expecting fast results, the dosing of bacteria and silicates and nutrients is NOT fast, it can take months. it sounds like you were doing alot right though...... this method is called the natural method, but it sucks because its a slow process.

but try the dino X. let me know what happens.
for me, week 1, i saw a reduction, week 2, most were gone, week 3, all gone but thats also when corals started dying.

there is one other option. called a moe kayed wand. seen here this link its a UV wand designed for use on dinos that dont migrate into the water column. for dinos where a normal external UV sterilizer in the water doesnt work. you stick the wand in the tank and run it over the dinos. takes about 5 min a day. everyone swears it cooks the dinos, works, and has no negative effects on corals. alot of people swear there sand and rocks are clean after a few weeks treatment.

So added Dino x last night, corals are fine look happier than before. Dino is down by half at least from what it was the other few days.

 

[Reef Puncher]

So added Dino x last night, corals are fine look happier than before. Dino is down by half at least from what it was the other few days.

whats gonna happen is the first 2 weeks your corals will look fine and the dinos will disappear. zoas might open even. then in week 3 sps coral will start to die. by week 4 few weaker lps will die. then your hardiest corals will live. i had maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of my corals survive.
here is a pic of that wand. and his site.

Sand Bed UV Sweeper

Introducing the UV Sweeper – the ultimate tool for maintaining a pristine sand bed. This innovative device will effectively help control dinoflagellates and diatoms while preserving the delicate organisms beneath the surface. The UV Sweeper is at the core of a process to help shift the...

3dreefing.com

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

whats gonna happen is the first 2 weeks your corals will look fine and the dinos will disappear. zoas might open even. then in week 3 sps coral will start to die. by week 4 few weaker lps will die. then your hardiest corals will live. i had maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of my corals survive.
here is a pic of that wand. and his site.

Sand Bed UV Sweeper

Introducing the UV Sweeper – the ultimate tool for maintaining a pristine sand bed. This innovative device will effectively help control dinoflagellates and diatoms while preserving the delicate organisms beneath the surface. The UV Sweeper is at the core of a process to help shift the...

3dreefing.com

Hoping I don’t need to dose for 3-4 weeks since it’s already nearly done after two doses. Fingers crossed.

 

[alexanderthefishlover]

whats gonna happen is the first 2 weeks your corals will look fine and the dinos will disappear. zoas might open even. then in week 3 sps coral will start to die. by week 4 few weaker lps will die. then your hardiest corals will live. i had maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of my corals survive.
here is a pic of that wand. and his site.

Sand Bed UV Sweeper

Introducing the UV Sweeper – the ultimate tool for maintaining a pristine sand bed. This innovative device will effectively help control dinoflagellates and diatoms while preserving the delicate organisms beneath the surface. The UV Sweeper is at the core of a process to help shift the...

3dreefing.com

Have you used the sand uv?? I’m going to order it