How full do I fill a new tank/sump on initial fill?

[mrpontiac80]

Ok everyone, I am planning to add the last bit of water to my 180 build tonight. It’s not my first tank but it IS my first with a sump.
Question is how much water do I need to add to the sump for the first time?

My display tank is full and water has started traveling down the main drain to the sump. Do I fill it till it’s a few inches below the top of the sump and expect that once all the equipment is turned on it will level out?
Will the tank basically drain with power turned off to the same level as it was first filled?

I am using an external overflow with a bean animal style drain and one return pump for two outlets. If pictures help answer this question, you can click my build thread in my banner. I just really don’t want to overflow or anything!
thanks!

 

[Timfish]

I always add water to the display tank until water is about 1" - 2" from the top of the sump with the return pump off. I mark this the "full, pump off" line. Then I turn on all the pumps, wait for the water level in the sump to stop dropping and mark that as the "full pump on" line.

 

[Lbrdsoxfan]

I always add water to the display tank until water is about 1" - 2" from the top of the sump with the return pump off. I mark this the "full, pump off" line. Then I turn on all the pumps, wait for the water level in the sump to stop dropping and mark that as the "full pump on" line.

Same for me. Usually display full till water hits the overflow, set the sump about 50 percent full and standby water to top off the system to whatever sump water height you want after return pump is turned on.

 

[mrpontiac80]

I always add water to the display tank until water is about 1" - 2" from the top of the sump with the return pump off. I mark this the "full, pump off" line. Then I turn on all the pumps, wait for the water level in the sump to stop dropping and mark that as the "full pump on" line.

Thank you! I felt this was the way to do it but not sure.

Same for me. Usually display full till water hits the overflow, set the sump about 50 percent full and standby water to top off the system to whatever sump water height you want after return pump is turned on.

Thank you!

 

[PotatoPig]

You want the water levels set such that:

1. The return line nozzle is shallow enough in the tank, and there is enough spare capacity in the sump, that when the pump is turned off the sump has capacity to accept all the water siphoned down into it.

2. Put the return pump behind a baffle that limits its access to water in the event of a drain failure. This will prevent it from pumping the entire sump into your tank and limit your losses to one pump instead of replacing your floors.

3. Ideally have the sump in a small waterproof basin just in case to give yourself a small amount of emergency overflow and also to limit splash damage to your floors from maintenance on your sump.

 

[PotatoPig]

Will the tank basically drain with power turned off to the same level as it was first filled?

Just an add on to this:

The answer is “No”. It will drain more. Possibly much more. Once the system is running there is water in the return line. When you turn the pump off it will siphon water from the tank into the sump. If your return nozzle is 4” into the tank it will siphon that full volume into your sump - which will add a lot more than 4” into the sump unless it’s the same dimensions as the DT. Say you’re using a 40 Breeder as your sump - 4” from the DT will add 8” water to the sump.

Check valves can be used to limit this, but you’re taking a huge risk in using them without adequate backup drain capacity in the tank as a failure will dump all that extra water on your floors.

 

[Indymann99]

I just finished a tank and sump rebuild so the labels in the return chamber are still just post it notes (will use label maker ). Green line is Return pump OFF water level. Yellow line is the ATO on/off. Also I do water changes out of the sump so I turn off Return pump. let sump fill up to the Pump off line. Pump OUT water from sump for WC. Pump IN new water (up to the Pump off line). Restart Return pump and all done. (note my Apex shuts off heaters, skimmer, ATS, and ATO during WC).

 

[Indymann99]

Just an add on to this:

The answer is “No”. It will drain more. Possibly much more. Once the system is running there is water in the return line. When you turn the pump off it will siphon water from the tank into the sump. If your return nozzle is 4” into the tank it will siphon that full volume into your sump - which will add a lot more than 4” into the sump unless it’s the same dimensions as the DT. Say you’re using a 40 Breeder as your sump - 4” from the DT will add 8” water to the sump.

Check valves can be used to limit this, but you’re taking a huge risk in using them without adequate backup drain capacity in the tank as a failure will dump all that extra water on your floors.

This is a good point. Backflow through the return pump WILL put additional water into your sump. Account for this. Checkvalves are bad idea as they will eventually fail. In photo below my DT will back flow via return pump (off) about 1.5 inches till the siphon breaks as the DT water level drops. This is well within my sump capacity. (other pict in thread Pump OFF line in sump).

 

[Potatohead]

Ideally the water level in the sump will be set by your return chamber baffle. Then set the return chamber level with your ATO about 1/2" below that.

Just fill the system until the sump is almost full, and remove water as necessary. You won't know how much the water in the display will rise, and how much water you need to remove until all the pumps are on. As mentioned previously make sure you then shut of all pumps again and test that your return nozzles are not too low in the display and the siphon does not flood the sump.

 

[mrpontiac80]

Just an add on to this:

The answer is “No”. It will drain more. Possibly much more. Once the system is running there is water in the return line. When you turn the pump off it will siphon water from the tank into the sump. If your return nozzle is 4” into the tank it will siphon that full volume into your sump - which will add a lot more than 4” into the sump unless it’s the same dimensions as the DT. Say you’re using a 40 Breeder as your sump - 4” from the DT will add 8” water to the sump.

Check valves can be used to limit this, but you’re taking a huge risk in using them without adequate backup drain capacity in the tank as a failure will dump all that extra water on your floors.

I do have loc line on my returns to raise them above the water line for the most part. Thanks!

 

[mrpontiac80]

This is definitely the most nerve wrecking part.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok everyone, I am planning to add the last bit of water to my 180 build tonight. It’s not my first tank but it IS my first with a sump.
Question is how much water do I need to add to the sump for the first time?

My display tank is full and water has started traveling down the main drain to the sump. Do I fill it till it’s a few inches below the top of the sump and expect that once all the equipment is turned on it will level out?
Will the tank basically drain with power turned off to the same level as it was first filled?

I am using an external overflow with a bean animal style drain and one return pump for two outlets. If pictures help answer this question, you can click my build thread in my banner. I just really don’t want to overflow or anything!
thanks!

I fill the tank 3/4 full then add salt as in pic and turn on heater and allow to circulate 4-6 hour , then add my sand and bacteria.

 

[Mperry622]

I learned the hard way on using check valves, what worked months ago on flow setting 1/5 now takes flow setting #5 to get any kind of flow. ripped out all my plumbing and redid, no more check valves for me :-( with new smaller plumbing (1/2 vs 3/4 before) setting 1 is still far to much flow :-(

Also be very careful if you adjust your overflow pipes(in overflow area) and it comes unseated... my sump couldn't hold that additional water

 

[mrpontiac80]

So another question.. should I turn the equipment on with the gate valve fully open on the main drain and return pump at a lower setting? Then adjust both together?