How is it possible!

AmaleeC

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How is it possible for cyano/hair algae to grow at the same time as dinos (I believe it’s Ostreopsis). I thought dinos grew when nutrients bottomed out and hair algae/cyano grew when they were too high. Any ideas?

Also, If any of you have dealt with the same exact issue - you help is appreciated!
 
What is “cyano/hair algae”?
 
How is it possible for cyano/hair algae to grow at the same time as dinos (I believe it’s Ostreopsis). I thought dinos grew when nutrients bottomed out and hair algae/cyano grew when they were too high. Any ideas?

Also, If any of you have dealt with the same exact issue - you help is appreciated!

I don't think that is a complete characterization of how low nutrients and dinos are related.

IMO, there is no chance that elevated nutrients directly "harm" or "deter" dinos in any way.

What happens, IMO, is that when nutrients are higher, other organisms out-compete dinos for something, be it space , or more likely, a trace element. If those other organisms are not using up that thing they are competing for, then they will not out-compete the dinos and both will flourish.
 
One thing that is important to know Amalee is your reef is a dry rock start, those systems lack every suppressive control that mature tanks have so care methods need to match the environment being worked

as you research dino prevention, actions that helped in live rock systems won’t transfer over as easily. Your search needs to be what has worked to stop dinos in brand new dry start tanks. Stay on top of manual removal until you find a way, don’t allow the tank to set its own invasion massing
no algae challenge tank is benefitted from allowing takeover.


when you do find the way about ten thousand people would like to know, dry rock starts and dinos are linked, they’re common we see in post patterns.
Nobody has a clear way to beat them, or they wouldn’t be the number one scourge in reefing. Your reef looks great because you commanded it to...this is independent from growth potential until food webs and competition species are gained in tank maturation. be sure and siphon spot remove any new growths, the tank will select for them until some aspect of the full dry rock start is altered.


when dry rock systems age and become coralline systems, you get to work less. Don’t be discouraged about the direct care it takes to make dry rock systems look clean, only three years left then chill mode begins~

the correct uv sterilizer is what you want, it will help in the ways you want for the tank. reacting to chemistry measures won’t work, the tests you are using have been shown to have fifty point reading spreads compared to other tests in threads. Need to focus on direct kill+ tank maturation to earn less hands on work
 
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Hey there, i have dinos too.

This is my second outbreak of ostreopsis now. The first time the whole bottom was covered in hair algae. One day i got tired of seeing it and cleaned it all out. Then dinos showed up because po4 was zero already from the hair algae. To get rid of it i dosed po4 to .80 ppm+ and no3 was already 150ppm+. I got rid of it.

Today i got it again. i got tirexd of seeing the hair algae again. But this time i dosed vibrant which killed all the green. Then the brown came. Im currently fighting it with po4 to .5ppm and hair algae is coming back, dinos still crazy, and a green cyano is growing. It was not subsiding this time as easily. I think ill need to get a uv sterilizer to kill them this time. So i ordered a 90 watt lifegard aquatics for my 160ish gallons. Im hopeful this time.

Imo you need hair algae. Just dont use chemicals to kill it, use urchins.
 
Those nutrient boosts sure seem to jumpstart the suppression process across threads agreed

that’s not a problem if it causes a bit of resumed live rock algae to manage, easy to lift up and fix and hold course against the dinos with some sort of combined effort plus uv plus whatever 10% magic makes it go away in the threads that beat it

the physical work portion being re allocated to rocks is a fine trade off thats easier than sandbed direct management. Buying a benthic gammarid shrimp refugium pod pack wouldn’t hurt, they’re on the bottom zone unlikely to pass through uv. Gammarids crawl about, are big enough to be seen clearly and are able to help with matted invaders as part of the suppression chain. Common refugium starter kits
 
How is it possible for cyano/hair algae to grow at the same time as dinos (I believe it’s Ostreopsis). I thought dinos grew when nutrients bottomed out and hair algae/cyano grew when they were too high. Any ideas?

Also, If any of you have dealt with the same exact issue - you help is appreciated!
In Massachusetts they have a huge deer overpopulation. The only Apex predator to keep the deer under control WAS man, through a hunting season. When they removed that predator the deer population exploded. This is biology at work. The reason you are having these problems is because there is no competition and the algaes are exploding. This is why live rock systems work better because they come with so much variance in life forms it is hard for one thing to get out of control. Competition is a VERY good thing.

I think that one of the reasons that I have such little algae is because I have a large filter feeder population. I had some dinos. I have some cyano. I have some green algaes etc ... but none are out of control. I also have a CUC and quite a few very large feather dusters that came in on my rock. I also have a very large mussel that also came in on my rock. It is like a natural UV sterilizer.
 
What is “cyano/hair algae”?
Cyano is coming in as some green slime. For a pic of all three, I’ll attach a screenshot of a post I made about a week and a half ago.

@Randy Holmes-Farley & @HuduVudu you guys make a valid point! Another user (@Snoopdog) mentioned something very similar on my build thread, so I added some live rock to the tank and will be dosing pods as well. I’d like for things to kinda balance on their own vs using UV and other additives. But I think that went out of the window when I started dry rock lol so it’s a work in progress. Great outlook guys! I think the addition of pods should help greatly. Once my refugium wiped out due to Vibrant, so did my pods population and the algae got out of control from there.

One thing that is important to know Amalee is your reef is a dry rock start, those systems lack every suppressive control that mature tanks have so care methods need to match the environment being worked

as you research dino prevention, actions that helped in live rock systems won’t transfer over as easily. Your search needs to be what has worked to stop dinos in brand new dry start tanks. Stay on top of manual removal until you find a way, don’t allow the tank to set its own invasion massing
no algae challenge tank is benefitted from allowing takeover.


when you do find the way about ten thousand people would like to know, dry rock starts and dinos are linked, they’re common we see in post patterns.
Nobody has a clear way to beat them, or they wouldn’t be the number one scourge in reefing. Your reef looks great because you commanded it to...this is independent from growth potential until food webs and competition species are gained in tank maturation. be sure and siphon spot remove any new growths, the tank will select for them until some aspect of the full dry rock start is altered.


when dry rock systems age and become coralline systems, you get to work less. Don’t be discouraged about the direct care it takes to make dry rock systems look clean, only three years left then chill mode begins~

the correct uv sterilizer is what you want, it will help in the ways you want for the tank. reacting to chemistry measures won’t work, the tests you are using have been shown to have fifty point reading spreads compared to other tests in threads. Need to focus on direct kill+ tank maturation to earn less hands on work
Thank you!! It just gets a little exhausting, fighting a battle you never really win and I really miss my coral. The dinos wiped them all out. I’m trying to figure out the root problem which I definitely believe to be low nitrates and no competition. I’ve added chaeto to my sump and I have some pods on the way.

Hey there, i have dinos too.

This is my second outbreak of ostreopsis now. The first time the whole bottom was covered in hair algae. One day i got tired of seeing it and cleaned it all out. Then dinos showed up because po4 was zero already from the hair algae. To get rid of it i dosed po4 to .80 ppm+ and no3 was already 150ppm+. I got rid of it.

Today i got it again. i got tirexd of seeing the hair algae again. But this time i dosed vibrant which killed all the green. Then the brown came. Im currently fighting it with po4 to .5ppm and hair algae is coming back, dinos still crazy, and a green cyano is growing. It was not subsiding this time as easily. I think ill need to get a uv sterilizer to kill them this time. So i ordered a 90 watt lifegard aquatics for my 160ish gallons. Im hopeful this time.

Imo you need hair algae. Just dont use chemicals to kill it, use urchins.
That’s true. Hair algae Can be wiped out, but the dinos are on a whole other level of crazy. Best of luck friend! I’m dosing NeoNitrate to get it to 10ppm starting today and have some pods on the way. Let’s see how it does :)

FBC7954B-515C-4190-9D87-559ADA9B4DD7.png
 

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