How long is light acclimation mode safe?..?

[Zeal]

Here's my schedule. Note that this is for the Blue and not the Pro, but you can play around with the colors a bit. The Pro has +6 more cool white, -4 royal blue, -4 blue, +1 photo red, +1 green (instead of lime), -1 violet and no cyan but warm white. Mine is a variation on the Radiant template to make the fish and corals pop.

The first thing you need to do is disable your acclimation, set the schedule intensity to 40% (you have it set to 100%) and then upload a new screenshot of your schedule ramp up/down - because right now it looks like you're maybe getting 15% off your lights (which would be far from enough). If you look at my schedule you can see that I'm getting 40-45% but the maximum potential is around 70% if I were to set the schedule intensity to 100%.

Why would I disable the acclimation mode?

 

[blaxsun]

Why would I disable the acclimation mode?

"Now all these corals were happy in my cube but when I moved them to the Waterbox I THINK my lights stressed them or are slowly killing them. In the cube I had a single radion Xr15pro G5 in the Waterbox I have 3. I believe that its the lights causing all this stress in my tank..."

Yes, as in your corals almost certainly aren't getting enough light @15%! Change the schedule intensity to 40% and kill the acclimation.

 

[Zeal]

Here's my schedule. Note that this is for the Blue and not the Pro, but you can play around with the colors a bit. The Pro has +6 more cool white, -4 royal blue, -4 blue, +1 photo red, +1 green (instead of lime), -1 violet and no cyan but warm white. Mine is a variation on the Radiant template to make the fish and corals pop.

The first thing you need to do is disable your acclimation, set the schedule intensity to 40% (you have it set to 100%) and then upload a new screenshot of your schedule ramp up/down - because right now it looks like you're maybe getting 15% off your lights (which would be far from enough). If you look at my schedule you can see that I'm getting 40-45% but the maximum potential is around 70% if I were to set the schedule intensity to 100%.

 

[Zeal]

"Now all these corals were happy in my cube but when I moved them to the Waterbox I THINK my lights stressed them or are slowly killing them. In the cube I had a single radion Xr15pro G5 in the Waterbox I have 3. I believe that its the lights causing all this stress in my tank..."

Yes, as in your corals almost certainly aren't getting enough light @15%! Change the schedule intensity to 40% and kill the acclimation.

These corals were fine until a week ago. They were at normal settings until 5 days ago when I turned on acclimation mode

 

[blaxsun]

Did you kill the acclimation?

 

[Zeal]

These corals were fine until a week ago. They were at normal settings until 5 days ago when I turned on acclimation mode

The stress started prior to me starting the acclimation mode.

that’s why I turned on the acclimation mode thinking the lights were cooking the corals

 

[Zeal]

Yes acclimation m

Did you kill the acclimation?

Yes it’s off

 

[blaxsun]

I'd leave it for 24-48 hours and see if anything improves, and then possibly adjust up +5% every few days to a maximum of 65%. If you can rent or borrow a PAR meter that would also give you an indication of what your PAR levels actually are at various points in the tank.

 

[Zeal]

I'd leave it for 24-48 hours and see if anything improves, and then possibly adjust up +5% every few days to a maximum of 65%. If you can rent or borrow a PAR meter that would also give you an indication of what your PAR levels actually are at various points in the tank.

I might rent one this weekend… my gut tells me the light was too bright in the waterbox.
I’ve seen what light burn looks like on montis and I’ve experienced it before in the cube

 

[blaxsun]

I might rent one this weekend… my gut tells me the light was too bright in the waterbox.
I’ve seen what light burn looks like on montis and I’ve experienced it before in the cube

Our eyes can't gauge light intensity properly, so you either have too much light or not enough. But as I also have 3 Radions over my tank (at roughly the same height) it really looks like you don't have enough light.

 

[Zeal]

Our eyes can't gauge light intensity properly, so you either have too much light or not enough. But as I also have 3 Radions over my tank (at roughly the same height) it really looks like you don't have enough light.

Hard to think I don’t have enough light at 100% intensity with 100% schedule

also the green monti in my cube started acting up when it was under a lot of light. Then I moved it under the frag rack and it healed and started growing.

there’s no way lack of light is the problem.

the green monti is in the waterbox now and something happened.

I’m going with too much light

 

[blaxsun]

There are three levels of intensity:
1. The individual light channel intensity.
2. The point intensity for all lights.
3. The schedule intensity for all lights.

Many of your light channels are set to 100% - that's fine. Your point intensity, however - is 55% (mine is 85-100% during the day, by comparison). Your schedule intensity is 40% (mine is 65% for comparison). Also note that you're using a primarily blue schedule (100%) with little white (10%), but the Pro model has fewer violet-blue LEDs (around -25%) and many more white LEDs (+25%) - so you're getting an additional 20-25% less light exposure than I will with my Blue XR15.

I don't know your specific Waterbox tank model, but I'm also using RMS mounts for my Radions so there's probably only a few inches difference in height (if at all) between our respective tanks.

 

[Zeal]

There are three levels of intensity:
1. The individual light channel intensity.
2. The point intensity for all lights.
3. The schedule intensity for all lights.

Many of your light channels are set to 100% - that's fine. Your point intensity, however - is 55% (mine is 85-100% during the day, by comparison). Your schedule intensity is 40% (mine is 65% for comparison). Also note that you're using a primarily blue schedule (100%) with little white (10%), but the Pro model has fewer violet-blue LEDs (around -25%) and many more white LEDs (+25%) - so you're getting an additional 20-25% less light exposure than I will with my Blue XR15.

I don't know your specific Waterbox tank model, but I'm also using RMS mounts for my Radions so there's probably only a few inches difference in height (if at all) between our respective tanks.

Do you think I would be better off just going with AB+ ?

 

[blaxsun]

Do you think I would be better off just going with AB+ ?

AB+ is for SPS-dominant reef tanks, so it really depends on your coral mix. I have a mixed reef: probably 4 dozen soft corals (zoas, leathers, mushrooms, GSP), around 2 dozen LPS (elegance, duncan, hammer, torch, goniopora, pectinia, favia) and maybe a half dozen SPS (monticap, psammocora) in addition to 6 BTAs and 7-8 rock flower anemones. So my lighting and supplements are geared towards my specific reef requirements.

This is a slightly outdated image, but you can see how my reef is setup (my SPS are maybe halfway down and around 200-225 PAR), with most of my LPS in the 125-175 PAR range and anything down along the bottom around 50-100 PAR. PAR at the surface is somewhere between 550-600.

 

[Zeal]

AB+ is for SPS-dominant reef tanks, so it really depends on your coral mix. I have a mixed reef: probably 4 dozen soft corals (zoas, leathers, mushrooms, GSP), around 2 dozen LPS (elegance, duncan, hammer, torch, goniopora, pectinia, favia) and maybe a half dozen SPS (monticap, psammocora) in addition to 6 BTAs and 7-8 rock flower anemones. So my lighting and supplements are geared towards my specific reef requirements.

This is a slightly outdated image, but you can see how my reef is setup (my SPS are maybe halfway down and around 200-225 PAR), with most of my LPS in the 125-175 PAR range and anything down along the bottom around 50-100 PAR. PAR at the surface is somewhere between 550-600.

What Im going for is a mixed reef...