How long should I cycle my reef jars?

LordJoshaeus

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To those who are familiar with pico setups, how long should I cycle my reef jars in the dark before adding livestock (in this case primarily soft corals and photosynthetic sponges, with perhaps the odd LPS)? Should I expect an ugly phase regardless of how long I cycle the jars? And should I do water changes during the cycle? I am starting with dry rock, live sand, and a bacteria in a bottle supplement (I forget which one) and will be filling the jars within a week most likely. The jars, as is commonly recommended for such small setups, have air stones for circulation, so the filtration will be done entirely by the sand and rock (two pounds of rock in my gallon jar, roughly the same in my two gallon jar). I am planning to add copepods at some point after the ammonia-nitrite-nitrate cycle completes but before the lights come on. Thanks :)
 
Trying to remember if you have a larger tank-if so consider cycling the rock in the sump of your larger tank?
 
Trying to remember if you have a larger tank-if so consider cycling the rock in the sump of your larger tank?
I have no larger tanks...I considered setting a ten gallon up, but decided to just stick with the jars for now. The small jars will allow me to perform 100% weekly water changes...can't really do that with a much larger setup, especially since I have no way of using an RODI unit (I have to buy distilled water from the store).
 
Ammonia won't cause any unnecessary problems for them?
Where would the ammonia come from, and if they uptake it for growth when it is present.

Ammonia burns fishes gills, so the cycle is for them. Lots of ammonia comes from the breakdown of food and rotting organics. You were using dead sand and rocks so there isn't much to rot into ammonia? Unless I got that wrong? Corals in a bowl with bubbling water are fine short term, even without light. If you want them to grow, add light. IF you want them to thrive, feed them lightly.
 
Where would the ammonia come from, and if they uptake it for growth when it is present.

Ammonia burns fishes gills, so the cycle is for them. Lots of ammonia comes from the breakdown of food and rotting organics. You were using dead sand and rocks so there isn't much to rot into ammonia? Unless I got that wrong? Corals in a bowl with bubbling water are fine short term, even without light. If you want them to grow, add light. IF you want them to thrive, feed them lightly.
I was going to use live sand. Never thought about it that way...so if there are no fish I could add the corals (and I am assuming photosynthetic sponges) before the cycle even starts, as long as I don't overdo feeding them (maybe once or twice a week)?
 
Ammonia won't cause any unnecessary problems for them?
You may find that the systems will run nutrient depleted unless you do something about it. Micro algae even when they are not at the nuisance level can consume quite a bit of nitrogen and phosphorous. I imagine coral will too. I guess you will be plagued by the uglies even in the jar setups.
 
Yes, and Yes. The beauty of a jar is that you can mix up a 5 or 10 gallon water supply and change water when/if it does get funky. I have used small container when traveling and collecting corals. I change the water often because I can but I don't think it is really necessary unless you are collecting live rock where the sponges and other reef live is likely to die (and cause a system melt down) after being removed from the oceanic currents that keep it happy. A new set up with live sand should not be very challenging as far as melt down potential.
 
You may find that the systems will run nutrient depleted unless you do something about it. Micro algae even when they are not at the nuisance level can consume quite a bit of nitrogen and phosphorous. I imagine coral will too. I guess you will be plagued by the uglies even in the jar setups.
What should I do about it? Feed the corals more (every other day)? Add a planted aquarium fertilizer?
 

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