How many people quarantine

How many people quarantine

  • I always quarantine

    Votes: 51 35.2%
  • I sometimes do

    Votes: 11 7.6%
  • I never do

    Votes: 55 37.9%
  • not yet

    Votes: 9 6.2%
  • only coral

    Votes: 1 0.7%
  • only fish

    Votes: 18 12.4%

  • Total voters
    145
I had a 5G quarantine tank for my 13.5, but that’s too small to reasonably keep any fish for a period longer than a week. Lost a blenny and baby dragonet to quarantine stress, so I haven’t quarantined since. However, for my new 75 gallon, I’m getting a 20L quarantine tank. No pointless meds though, that just stresses already stressed fish even more
 
Hi I was just wondering how many people quarantine there fish and coral
I lost a couple of fish in quarantine for some unknown reason so I quit. Corals I sometimes add a couple of drops of coral dip to the bag and let it float in the tank for half hour
 
Yes, I always quarantine, lost a couple in QT when I brought a couple clowns and Chromis home from the LFS into my QT tank. Was pretty grateful that I had the QT tank.
 
I used to not qt, but since I started collecting tangs I have decided to qt. I am upgrading tank in the next few weeks and my plan is to re-QT all my fish and have a 76 days fallow my new DT ( will be using all my rocks) to play safe because I will be adding an achilles tang in my new tank.
 
I’ve had at least one tank running since 1994. 2 things I’ve learned. Quarantine is good and screen covers are good.
Now, I have a screen cover over my quarantine tank.
 
I’m lucky enough where my lfs (a small privately owned space in the back of a larger pet shop) quarantines all his fish before selling them. Won’t let you buy them until they have been fully quarantined under his care. If I decide to buy a fish elsewhere I will most likely qt though.
 
Several of my LFSs run just enough copper to hold off obvious symptoms of parasites. Took me several months to figure out why most of the healthy looking fish I brought home suddenly burst into spots. So that's why I quarantine every fish now.
 
I never quarantine my fish. I only buy already quarantined fish, or I get captive bred because there's less risk.
 
I agree with Sixty7x. I was in the hobby over 25 years ago (with success) and trying my hand at it once again. While it takes alot of time, I'm not willing to gamble with my pets (investments). While I realize I may lose some in qt I want the best, safest, and healthiest possible situations for all my pets. Therefore, as I progress thru this experience I plan to do a medicated qt of all fish, dip,qt, and redip all corals, and do a one month observation of all inverts.
 
I used to be a Risk Taker. Never did quarentine, just the proper acclimation to reduce fish stress.

I got away with taking risks for 10 years+. LUCKY ME eh?
Built up some nice fish stock and the fish grew up under my care.
The fish became very used to me and vise versa. I got attached to them....Especially my Powder Blue Tang.
Nothing went wrong even during, minor mishaps, power failures, tank tear downs and rebuilds.

THEN ONE Day, I had a freak accident and lost a one clown from a Pair.
The other clown instantly got lethargic. Kind of depressed.
I rushed to get a replacement clown to make him/her happy.
Found a perfect match and tossed him in to join the other Clown. (no QT).

That's when my years of luck ended, to become the worst experience of my Life in this hobby.
One by one the fish started dieing. I had no experience on disease recognition, to react fast.
I had no QT or Hospital setup to remove or treat fish. No meds.
Sure I reached out for help and got plenty from the forums.
The disease looked to be Velvet.
Fish kept dieing, one by one.
Watching the Slow Suffering Deaths of my Fish was devastating.

My heart broke when my Buddy of 10 years.... the Powder Blue Tang started dying.

He was last to die since the Largest and strongest fish. I learned a lesson I wish I didn't have to learn.
The tank had to go into Fallow for 3 months and eventually I did get fish again.

I now QT each and every time. Even from stores that Treat Fish with Meds.
It saved me already twice since I caught a disease that I didn't introduce to my Healthy Tanks.
I have 3 Tanks and on occasion I've moved fish between them, with confidence I have clean stock.

Point is....If you have one fish, QT may not be needed as much.
The loss and pain increases as you build up a healthy stock of fish.


Just search on the Forum under fish Disease. Read the reactions and feelings people go thru when things go bad (not doing QT).
You'll get a feeling what it's like.

It's personal decision you have the right to do as you wish. This risk is yours.
Just be aware, when your luck runs out, you may regret it Big Time like I did.
I totally feel your pain.....I just went through this exact thing.

I also know it was velvet. People will try to tell you ich, but this is complexity different. I think I had my blue tang living with ich.....spots would drop off in a few days. No other gosh showed signs.

my drama happened after my tank had to be broken down and setup to redo my floors. Long story but my tank stayed at local fish shop for 10 days and 3 gosh died right after first move. The rest died after tank was set back up in my home.

horrifying.....all my strong healthy fish just slowly decimated in front of my very eyes. I killed the last two myself because I couldn’t stand to watch them suffer.

of course If I was ready I could have setup my own treatment but it’s challenging to catch and break down with corals.

I’m fallow now and am ordering first batch of fish from Dr. reef....
 
I haven't quarantined unless I didn't know where they came from. I am now regretting that decision bc I purchased a naso tang from my lfs and it ended up being put in ich and subsequently paying it to the other 23 fish in my tank.
 
I QT all fish as I have found more issues there. In my experience I would also like to share what has made the difference for a successful fish QT. Typically we are told that a QT tank only needs a HOB filter, PVC pipe for hiding spaces and a heater. I would also say a requirement is the use of an air stone. Most medications drop oxygen levels and cause additional stress on the fish. I was experiencing fish lose until I implemented an air stone. Now no issues and will always use additional oxygen in my QT set up.

coral and inverts have their own process. I only dip at the present time. I am always wanting to know more about what others find successful in that area of pest/disease control and prevention.
 
All tanks and creatures have parasites. Whenever something goes wrong the parasites win. When everything is taken care of and well maintained thr parasites lose. I liken it to hand sanitizer and 99.99% effectiveness. If you can directly apply something and not kill all of it what makes you think any medication will rid all parasites? Get a huge uv, triple the size you think you need, and watch the losses drop. Old school diatom filters do the same too.
 
I went back and forth on what direction to go when starting up my system a few months ago. Ended up going the no QT route. I don't regret that decision even though I do have Ich in my tank. I run UV and feed really well.

My experience so far with fish: Ive lost a mimic tang and a powder blue (he died while in a hospital tank though). Ive also lost a Midas Blenny for unknown reasons, a Lyretail Anthias who was picked on by the other Lyretails in my tank and a Mandarin who I could never get to eat (tank has a solid pod population). I currently have a blue hippo which has had a few spots but eats like a pig and looks good at the moment - fingers crossed. I have 18 other fish that have never shown any spots and appear healthy.

My experience so far with coral and inverts: I have lost count on the number of frags Ive put in. Safe to say its around 200+ frags ranging from Zoas to small colonies of SPS. Ive lost one small encrusting Monti for unknown reasons and thats it to this point. I dip almost every SPS and LPS coral in Coral RX. I have about 10 rock flowers and 4 BTAs. I have one cleaner shrimp to replace one I killed (separate story). A sally light foot, a couple urchins and many hermits, snails, etc. So far no flat worms Im aware of (I do have a six line). I did see a couple Aiptasia babies pop up on one frag that was dipped. I hit it with Aiptasia X and haven't seen any since but obviously I could have more in the future I suppose.

Simply put I couldn't see QT every coral, every snail every fish for the length of time to be 100% sure it was safe. I like to get something new every week which would start the clock over again. QT just didn't work for me. I understand I might regret that decision but it works for me. Sorry for the long winded post.
 
I'd like to see a poll reflecting how many losses there are in a QT. I regularly see posts of fish dying in QT usually under medication. A stressed fish put under medication when it isn't needed may be too much for the fish.

I do think if you have the spare tank that observation in a QT would be a good thing. With only medicating if needed. My QT tank lasted about a month and then became a DT. I do have a small tank with available live rock so that I can throw together a hospital tank if needed. I have used it a couple of times on new arrivals that did not appear as healthy as I think they should have.
You can always try the methods we Canadians are stuck with now that most standard meds have been banned! I recently bought six fish and split them up into four tanks (three "display" (although they're too new too qualify as such, and the new fish are the only inhabitants) and one dedicated QT) based on source. They've been under observation since then, since that (aside from TTM, and Coppersafe) is about the only thing left, unless you're into dodging border agents and Health Canada. Which I'm not.

I'm giving each build their own tools and equipment, as well: I'd bet some pathogens sometimes ride in when tools are shared between builds.
 
I always QT.
Just a 32 ltr tub from the local Asda, a tunze skimmer and Tunze DOC Filter and a UV.
i use the DT water after acclimatising.
Change 25% water every 3 days, and top up with RODI water with Prime added.
QT is for 2 weeks as a minimum using all the meds i can throw at them. Any issues and I RESET to Day 0 and start again.

For Corals I will just dip (3 meds) and brush off nasties for the most part. But i do this for 12 hours before they enter my DT.

I don't QT Feather dusters, sponges, clams, just 12 hour acclimatisation.

for snails/crabs/cucumbers, i just do an observation QT for 7 days with a tunze skimmer and Tunze DOC Filter and a UV..
 
I will second the motion for aeration/oxygen supplementation in QT. I started QT after a few rookie months where I lost a lot of fish, mostly to undetected chloramines. That QT seemed to kill more fish than the float & toss method.

Now my QT is a full-fledged setup with a large (and expensive) canister filter, along with an in-tank UV that includes aeration. You can hear the fish complain when I tell them it's time to move to the DTs!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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