How much can an RO/DI system handle?

[Cherie cook]

I recently moved to Colorado(way up in the mountains) and the house we’ve been renting has a water softening system...as do most houses in the area. However, I have to move at the end of the month to live with my daughter until our new house is finished...and she does not have a water softener yet. The water is incredibly hard here...you can see the yellowish iron color to the water and it quickly turns anything that’s white into orange. White dishes left soaking in it overnite turn orange. They use bottled water to drink and cook. My question is...how likely is it that my 5 stage RO/DI system from BRS will be able to handle this level of iron and other unknown minerals? It’s well water so it’s not like it’s treated with chloramines.

 

[Jettareefer223]

I recently moved to Colorado(way up in the mountains) and the house we’ve been renting has a water softening system...as do most houses in the area. However, I have to move at the end of the month to live with my daughter until our new house is finished...and she does not have a water softener yet. The water is incredibly hard here...you can see the yellowish iron color to the water and it quickly turns anything that’s white into orange. White dishes left soaking in it overnite turn orange. They use bottled water to drink and cook. My question is...how likely is it that my 5 stage RO/DI system from BRS will be able to handle this level of iron and other unknown minerals? It’s well water so it’s not like it’s treated with chloramines.

Honestly it should hold up just fine using a high quality sediment filter, chloramines are by far the most damaging thing to worry about since you need catalytic Carbon to removed them effectively. It’s a gas working its way ruining everything that it contacts quickly if bypassing. You lucked out being on a well lol. Chloramines are exceptionally bad here in Dallas.

 

[Cherie cook]

Honestly it should hold up just find using a high sediment filter, chloramines are by far the most damaging thing to worry about since you need catalytic Carbon to removed them effectively. It’s a gas works it way ruining everything that it contacts quickly if bypassing. You lucked out lol. Chloramines are exceptionally bad here in Dallas.

Is a high sediment filter something that normally comes with a five stage system...or is it something you buy extra?

 

[Jettareefer223]

Is a high sediment filter something that normally comes with a five stage system...or is it something you buy extra?

The new brs units come with ge filter savers which isn’t bad, I would try to get finer micron pentex (pentair). You can get cases on eBay for killer deals.

 

[Brew12]

The better your water pressure, the higher your membrane rejection rate will be and the longer your non sediment filters will last. If you have a booster pump, or their water pressure is over 70psi, then your RODI filters should last quite awhile. If their water pressure is 50psi then you will go through filters much faster.

 

[Jettareefer223]

The better your water pressure, the higher your membrane rejection rate will be and the longer your non sediment filters will last. If you have a booster pump, or their water pressure is over 70psi, then your RODI filters should last quite awhile. If their water pressure is 50psi then you will go through filters much faster.

Definitely true especially the cold winters there this will be helpful!

 

[Jettareefer223]

Side note I like the aqua fx membranes when it’s time to replace it. I use dowe industries one’s from brs and they last no where near as long.

 

[Cherie cook]

The new brs units come with ge filter savers which isn’t bad, I would try to get finer micron pentex (pentair). You can get cases on eBay for killer deals.

Thank you for the advice!

 

[Cherie cook]

The better your water pressure, the higher your membrane rejection rate will be and the longer your non sediment filters will last. If you have a booster pump, or their water pressure is over 70psi, then your RODI filters should last quite awhile. If their water pressure is 50psi then you will go through filters much faster.

Fortunately I do have the booster pump from BRS...I have no idea what their water pressure is.

 

[Pntbll687]

If it is truly sediment in the water, then look into getting multiple sediment filters. Run them largest to smallest, maybe 10 micron, then 5, then 1.

If you stick with one size, then it will either clog quickly, or allow sediment through if it is too large.

Now, if it is tds in the water and not sediment, then the sediment filter isn't going to do anything, then you're looking at getting better carbon filter and membrane.

 

[Cherie cook]

If it is truly sediment in the water, then look into getting multiple sediment filters. Run them largest to smallest, maybe 10 micron, then 5, then 1.

If you stick with one size, then it will either clog quickly, or allow sediment through if it is too large.

Now, if it is tds in the water and not sediment, then the sediment filter isn't going to do anything, then you're looking at getting better carbon filter and membrane.

Ok....gonna have to do some investigating. Maybe I will unhook the system here temporarily and try it at her house, just to see what happens.

 

[Cherie cook]

If it is truly sediment in the water, then look into getting multiple sediment filters. Run them largest to smallest, maybe 10 micron, then 5, then 1.

If you stick with one size, then it will either clog quickly, or allow sediment through if it is too large.

Now, if it is tds in the water and not sediment, then the sediment filter isn't going to do anything, then you're looking at getting better carbon filter and membrane.

So after speaking with my daughter she says the water looks brown but with no sediment...it’s ferrous iron not ferric (whatever that means). So what would be a better carbon filter/membrane? What should I be looking for?

 

[Pntbll687]

So after speaking with my daughter she says the water looks brown but with no sediment...it’s ferrous iron not ferric (whatever that means). So what would be a better carbon filter/membrane? What should I be looking for?

How long will you be using this water?

You might want to invest in an icp test from @Buckeye Hydro and have them point you in the right direction.

I can only speculate and offer anecdotal advice. Buckeye can talk you what you need and how to get there.

 

[Opus]

Talking to someone @ Buckeye Hydro or Spectrapure (both sponsors here) is your best bet. They are both water experts. Also, no one has mentioned it, but another possible pitfall with moving to well water is high CO2. This will burn thru your DI faster than normal.

 

[Cherie cook]

How long will you be using this water?

You might want to invest in an icp test from @Buckeye Hydro and have them point you in the right direction.

I can only speculate and offer anecdotal advice. Buckeye can talk you what you need and how to get there.

I’ll be using the water until our house is finished...we’re still in the planning stage, dealing with county permits and banks. But it’s a modular so once that paperwork is done it should go up within a few months. So the answer is....I have no idea, lol! But I will definitely get in touch with @Buckeye Hydro. Thank you so much for the help!

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

So after speaking with my daughter she says the water looks brown but with no sediment...it’s ferrous iron not ferric (whatever that means). So what would be a better carbon filter/membrane? What should I be looking for?

Ferrous Iron - is a divalent cation (Fe2+) that when present in your water is totally dissolved. If you add an oxidant like air or chlorine or potperm to the water, the ferrous iron can be forced to come out of solution as ferric iron (Fe3+). Both are relatively common issues in some well water. Both can be dealt with in whole house treatment systems.

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Iron and RO membranes don't play well together, so it is typical to treat the iron before the water reaches the RO or RODI.
Russ

 

[Cherie cook]

Iron and RO membranes don't play well together, so it is typical to treat the iron before the water reaches the RO or RODI.
Russ

How is that done? And which of the tests do I order...the quantified one?

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

That's the whole-house treatment I mentioned. We can spec that once we have the lab data back. You told me the bacterial issue is already resolved, so select "No Bacterial Testing"
The Lab will test for Aluminum, Arsenic, Barium, Beryllium, Boron, Cadmium, Calcium, Chromium, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Lithium, Magnesium, Manganese, Molybdenum, Nickel, Phosphorus, Potassium, Silicon, Silver; Sodium, Strontium, Tannins, Vanadium, Zinc, Bromide, Chloride, Fluoride, Nitrate, Phosphate, Sulfate, pH, Total Dissolved Solids, Hardness, and Silica.
You'll want to test the pH onsite.
Does the water stick like "rotten eggs"?

Russ

 

[Cherie cook]

That's the whole-house treatment I mentioned. We can spec that once we have the lab data back. You told me the bacterial issue is already resolved, so select "No Bacterial Testing"
The Lab will test for Aluminum, Arsenic, Barium, Beryllium, Boron, Cadmium, Calcium, Chromium, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Lithium, Magnesium, Manganese, Molybdenum, Nickel, Phosphorus, Potassium, Silicon, Silver; Sodium, Strontium, Tannins, Vanadium, Zinc, Bromide, Chloride, Fluoride, Nitrate, Phosphate, Sulfate, pH, Total Dissolved Solids, Hardness, and Silica.
You'll want to test the pH onsite.
Does the water stick like "rotten eggs"?

Russ

No...no rotten egg smell that I’ve noticed.