How much MicroBacter7 to help combat Dinos

[Clownfishy]

I have seen a number of people mention that they are using MicroBacter7 to help combat their Dino issues and that they are dosing this heavily. Are people ignoring the instructions that state to reduce dosing after two weeks and just continuing the same dosage? Also, are you dosing more than it states in the instructions (listed below)?
Also, I am assuming dosing this level of bacteria may reduce Nitrates so I need to keep an eye Nitrate levels?

Many thanks


Medium- to High-nutrient Systems, or to seed Biological Filtration in new aquaria: To effectively decrease the concentration of available nutrients and waste material in all marine and freshwater aquaria, add 5 ml (1 capful) per 25 US-gallons (94.6 L) [≈4 drops per gallon (3.8 L)] of aquarium water daily for the first two weeks of use; the impact that MicrōBacter7 has on an aquarium is most evident within this period. Turn protein skimming and UV-sterilization off for a period of 4 hours following addition to aquaria. A noticeable difference in water clarity is typically apparent within 30-minutes of dosing. Follow same instructions for new aquarium start-up. Thereafter, switch to “low-nutrient” dosage (below).

 

[Marlon C]

I think first find out what type of dino you have. What made my tank get dino was dosing vibrant to kill bubble algea. 95% bubble gone but then I got dino. I think vibrant is bacteria in a bottle like mb7. What if you dose it then it makes dino population explode?

 

[Clownfishy]

I think first find out what type of dino you have. What made my tank get dino was dosing vibrant to kill bubble algea. 95% bubble gone but then I got dino. I think vibrant is bacteria in a bottle like mb7. What if you dose it then it makes dino population explode?

This is my worry. Why would dosing MicroBacter7 make their population explode? I have ostreopsis because I let phosphates and Nitrates drop to zero. The are now 10 Nitrates and .03 Phosphates

 

[Clownfishy]

Is it advisable to keep adding bacteria or will this drive Nitrates down (and phosphates)?

 

[Rivic]

Following this thread as I am also interested.

 

[Mykawl]

Following too have heard many remedies for this, increasing nutrients, oxygen, biodiversity (bacteria)

 

[DesertReefT4r]

I have epbeen dosing MB7 and MB Clean to help combat dinos. It has not helped my case very much at all. I was dosing 10ml of each to my tank, 75g, daily. DinoX seems to be helping.

 

[Bret Brinkmann]

Ostreopsis goes back into the water column over night. So UV is very effective against it. MB7 is more for dinos that stay in the sand and don't go back in the water column. Either way you still need to dose inorganic sources of nutrients like Seachem Flourish for phosphates and KNO3 like Spectrocide stump remover for nitrates. Raising nutrients is the only way to keep dinos from coming back. Feeding heavy isn't just dosing nitrates and phosphates it's adding other things like sulfer and complex organics. You want nutrients not waste. Dino X is hit or miss and stresses corals on top of the stress from dino toxins. Your corals are better off dosing nutrients, running GAC, and either UV or bacteria dosing depending on the strain of dinos.

 

[Hairmetal89]

All-
I've been in the hobby 20 yrs. Got dino for first time after dosing Vibrant. It has overrun my tank. SPS are dying. Misery has set in. I've read the mongo "battling dinos" thread on R2R and I feel like everything conflicts. You need Nitrate, so add nitrate. You need to dose MB7 to remove Nitrate. etc. Everything is conflicting. I've tried 3 weeks of Dino X. No impact. I've tried to continue Vibrant as it apparently will "work its way past all algae, then cyano, then Dinos ... just "stay with it". Not working. I cannot believe all the effort and $ I have dumped into my reef and the failure mode death spiral I am in. Anyone on this thread have lessons learned or good vibes to share? UGH

 

[dantimdad]

I have said it before and will repeat: Dinos, hair algae, etc are about patience and maintenance.

No, you don't have to go to war with your tank.

No, you don't need to throw every chemical in the book at your tank.

And no, you don't have to lose everything.

People knee jerk react and start wild swings and extreme courses of action and make it worse.

I had hair algae, diatoms, dinos, etc. in my tank when it started. I kept skimming, kept a heavy feeding regimen and kept on with a normal progression and all subsided in time and now coraline has overrun the tank.

This is not a one shot occurence BTW. I have been reef keeping for 30+ years.

I do the same things everytime I help setup a tank.

BTW, I will say this time I started with 100% dry rock and will probably never again do that. It takes way too long to get the bacterial diversity needed.

At least have 5% live rock, even if it's cultured dry rock that's a few months to a year old.

 

[mitch91175]

I have said it before and will repeat: Dinos, hair algae, etc are about patience and maintenance.

No, you don't have to go to war with your tank.

No, you don't need to throw every chemical in the book at your tank.

And no, you don't have to lose everything.

People knee jerk react and start wild swings and extreme courses of action and make it worse.

I had hair algae, diatoms, dinos, etc. in my tank when it started. I kept skimming, kept a heavy feeding regimen and kept on with a normal progression and all subsided in time and now coraline has overrun the tank.

This is not a one shot occurence BTW. I have been reef keeping for 30+ years.

I do the same things everytime I help setup a tank.

BTW, I will say this time I started with 100% dry rock and will probably never again do that. It takes way too long to get the bacterial diversity needed.

At least have 5% live rock, even if it's cultured dry rock that's a few months to a year old.

I have had Dinos in my frag system for over 2 months. Haven't done anything to combat them but add fish to the system and feed the tank more. I have realized that the Dinos aren't coming back as fast as they used to.

I do not test the tank either (not saying you shouldn't test your system, but after being in the hobby for 20+ years you tend to have some understanding even without testing).

There are certain tools that I use to help maintain my system and Vibrant just wasn't something that I personally would use. No particular reason just that for me I found that it didn't really do much.

I find just doing your routine maintenance more frequently will help you combat anything you have in your system. Once you have done that for some time, at that time consider an alternative that can assist. Continue to do you more frequent maintenance tasks. Everything will balance out and be fine.

Something that I do trust to put in my system though is Chemiclean. It won't help with Dinos, but that stuff works extremely well and will not affect tank inhabitants (at least never have for me).

 

[DesertReefT4r]

UV, removing all the sand, nomwater changes and heavy bacteria dosing worked for me against amphidinium and ostreopsis. UV was a god send in the battle. Oh and DinoX did not work and it does kill or at the least weakens corals.

 

[Marlon C]

Its not nitrate to battle dinos but detectable phos helps alot and uv

 

[jd371]

When I had dinos I ran my UV attached to a canister filter. I set this up temporary and used it only at night when the dinos are in the water column. I also adjusted the PH's so that more flow was going into the intake of the UV/canister filter. The output from the UV set up was going into the filter sock that was changed out daily.
I did this for a couple of weeks until the dinos were gone and continued for another couple of weeks before breaking it down.

 

[Fishingandreefing]

I have had Dinos in my frag system for over 2 months. Haven't done anything to combat them but add fish to the system and feed the tank more. I have realized that the Dinos aren't coming back as fast as they used to.

I do not test the tank either (not saying you shouldn't test your system, but after being in the hobby for 20+ years you tend to have some understanding even without testing).

There are certain tools that I use to help maintain my system and Vibrant just wasn't something that I personally would use. No particular reason just that for me I found that it didn't really do much.

I find just doing your routine maintenance more frequently will help you combat anything you have in your system. Once you have done that for some time, at that time consider an alternative that can assist. Continue to do you more frequent maintenance tasks. Everything will balance out and be fine.

Something that I do trust to put in my system though is Chemiclean. It won't help with Dinos, but that stuff works extremely well and will not affect tank inhabitants (at least never have for me).

So you’re saying feed more to combat Dino? I am confused.

 

[Fishingandreefing]

I have said it before and will repeat: Dinos, hair algae, etc are about patience and maintenance.

No, you don't have to go to war with your tank.

No, you don't need to throw every chemical in the book at your tank.

And no, you don't have to lose everything.

People knee jerk react and start wild swings and extreme courses of action and make it worse.

I had hair algae, diatoms, dinos, etc. in my tank when it started. I kept skimming, kept a heavy feeding regimen and kept on with a normal progression and all subsided in time and now coraline has overrun the tank.

This is not a one shot occurence BTW. I have been reef keeping for 30+ years.

I do the same things everytime I help setup a tank.

BTW, I will say this time I started with 100% dry rock and will probably never again do that. It takes way too long to get the bacterial diversity needed.

At least have 5% live rock, even if it's cultured dry rock that's a few months to a year old.

So basically you’re saying that if a tank has Dino, you just leave it along and maybe just do more maintenance? It will over run your tank

 

[Fishingandreefing]

I have had Dinos in my frag system for over 2 months. Haven't done anything to combat them but add fish to the system and feed the tank more. I have realized that the Dinos aren't coming back as fast as they used to.

I do not test the tank either (not saying you shouldn't test your system, but after being in the hobby for 20+ years you tend to have some understanding even without testing).

There are certain tools that I use to help maintain my system and Vibrant just wasn't something that I personally would use. No particular reason just that for me I found that it didn't really do much.

I find just doing your routine maintenance more frequently will help you combat anything you have in your system. Once you have done that for some time, at that time consider an alternative that can assist. Continue to do you more frequent maintenance tasks. Everything will balance out and be fine.

Something that I do trust to put in my system though is Chemiclean. It won't help with Dinos, but that stuff works extremely well and will not affect tank inhabitants (at least never have for me).

I am start seeing air bubbles on my rocks and p04 are at around .35. So base on your theory, if I brush the rocks and perhaps do 25% change water twice per week will solve the problem? If so about how long?

 

[vetteguy53081]

1m/l per 10 gallons

 

[JCOLE]

Yes. When your nutrients bottom out and you have a sterile system then dino's will thrive. The idea is to feed more to get your nutrients up to grow algae. Once algae takes hold then it will out compete dino's. It won't happen over night though. This along with daily manual removal plus a UV sterilizer will knock them out in a couple weeks.

 

[Boss]

Regarding the original question that was posted, I just talked to brightwell aquatics. Here's their guidance. On the bottle there are instructions recommended dosing daily for a medium to high nutrient system, and instructions for dosing weekly for a low nutrient system. Take a look at the bottle to see what I mean. Most reef tanks with a nitrate level of 10 PPM and a phosphate level of 1 PPM approximately are considered low nutrient systems. However, instead of following the low nutrient system instructions on the bottle, when you have a low nutrient system and you are battling dinos, you should dose per the medium to high nutrient system instructions on the microbacter7 bottle. This involves dosing daily. You would follow those instructions for the first week, and then for the second week dose every other day. By the end of the second week you will see a drastic reduction in dinos, or at least that's what they told me. In the third week go to dosing weekly per the low nutrients system instructions.

Having said all that, they suggested if you're battling dinos to use microbacter clean instead of microbacter7 as it is designed for knocking out issues like dinos and just a matter of days instead of weeks. I haven't heard any other threads mention this so I thought it was worth mentioning what they told me. They said that microbacter7 is more of a maintenance tool where microbacter clean is better for dinos.

So if you're using microbacter7, hopefully these instructions help. That's what I have and what I'm going to use. I have not yet used microbacter clean but if microbacter7 doesn't work for me I'll probably resort to it. Hope this helps