Just gotta add in 2ppm (or whatever the target ammonia expected to be oxidized a day is) each time ammonia reads 0 (or 0.25ppm if you use the API ammonia test kit), and then stop when it reduces to 0 (or 0.25) within 24 hours. And then you are done!
dont add more that's enough you are already done.
fritz is at maximum 24-48 hour cycling bac, we've tested it endlessly. it doesnt even matter if you feed it or not.
post a pic of your tank, do a water change and you can begin reefing. that's the costliest bottle bac for a reason.
*nothing you read about cycling online applies to bottle bac cycles...the wait times of 30 days etc that's all a mix of various cycle approaches and it can get confusing.
for exactly what you've posted, yours is done though.
post a pic of your tank so we can make sure there's enough rock and sand in contact w the water bac mix.
there are ways to assess if your bottle bac was dead and didnt work, since i havent had that happen to me not once in any cycle I've worked we're likely in the clear
pics first, before params.
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Wow I never new that around 90% that don't quarantine have issues down the road, thanks for the info ill definitely have to setup a quarantine tank in a few weeks, luckily I'm in no rush for fish or coral and this hobby has actually taught me lots of patience haha.
He is fear mongering. QT is preferred, especially with larger tanks (more chance for an outbreak and more livestock to lose) but its not necessary and 90% is a number he pulled out of his 1 gallon pico reef.
Yep. All of this. Even as I suggest 2ppm/a day, I do admit the science is changing and it is pointing to a lot less nitrification capability is needed, at least in a reef tank. It is still a safe point to reach though if possible, just in case anything out of the ordinary happens. But yeah nah. I've set up four long-term marine aquariums in my life time, pretty sure if the 90% number is correct I'd have had at least three of those four tanks be wiped out.He is fear mongering. QT is preferred, especially with larger tanks (more chance for an outbreak and more livestock to lose) but its not necessary and 90% is a number he pulled out of his 1 gallon pico reef.
I would suggest following @Azedenkae advice and testing to ensure you are back down to zero. Redose if you plan to add a large bioload. This is a safer method then what I personally do but to Brandon's point, cycling science is changing and I usually consider myself cycled long before I can do 2 ppm in 24 hours. Judging by Seneye (ammonia/ph monitors) in a fully stocked tank you only need to process .25-.5 ppm to handle fish respiration/feedings (honestly this is at most unless a fish dies).
Either way, make sure you do a large water change to remove nitrates/nitrites and any remaining ammonia before adding fish
Basically don't dump fish into a 1 ppm ammonia tank and you likely don't need to continue dosing ammonia. Let things settle and continue on!
So you didn't make up that ridiculous figure?fear mongering is another word for you dont have any cures logged in the forum linked, keep in mind that pressing detail
then again neither do I.
but I think those patterns are just gold for where work is getting done, no two people will ever agree on quarantining.
it'd be nice to get some diversity in work done, in the above forum. that can't be done from the couch though. well technically it can but figuratively if someone else other than Jay provided some actual cures that would be neat to see.
I would be doomed for sure! lol Ich killed my jumping YWG too, the carpet fuzz on him was just a symptom.
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