How often do you blast rocks with baster

  • Thread starter Thread starter g6gang
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

g6gang

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 18, 2014
Messages
272
Reaction score
25
Location
United States
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Just curious how often people blast their rocks with a turkey baster? I am beginning to think that could be the source of my nutrient problem. Also curios to hear from Randy that if you have a lot of settled detritus/etc on rock that it may not appear on test kit as much if you took readings after a good blast where it is in the water column.
 
I think it is a good idea, but I rarely bother to do it. I'm not generally striving for an especially pristine or low nutrient tank. THere is also a ton of space where I wouldn't possibly remove detritus (like in my 3 x 40 gallon Brute cans largely filled with live rock), so I just have to have systems that can deal with decaying detritus.

The things blasted off the rock probably wouldn't show in most tests we use. There is probably a lot of organic matter, and if you used the Hach total phosphate kit which detects organic forms, then that would show, but not any other brands I know of, nor the Hanna checkers.

If there is calcium carbonate in your detritus (fine sand, organism shells and deposits, etc), then that will show a false high in an alkalinity test, and possibly a calcium test. So I'd let it settle clear again before measuring these. The acid in the tests will dissolve the solids and make it appear as if they were already dissolved.
 
Thanks for the details and reply. What do you have in those 3x 40 Brute cans besides live rock to handle the detritus? I always thought it was a bad idea to have a 'detritus trap' and that is why I do not have any LiveRock in my refugium. Maybe I should rethink this.. also will check out Hach - I was just about to purchase a Hanna checker but was confused over their Phosphate vs Phosporous checkers. Currently I donlt test for phosphate (tried Salifert and API)
 
I do it once a week as part of my water change regimen. Except I use a small power head held in my hand. My little tank is bare bottom and produces a huge amount of organic detritus. I put a filter sock on my overflow when I stir up the detritus. Despite this I would also not consider my tank particularly clean.
 
Thanks for the details and reply. What do you have in those 3x 40 Brute cans besides live rock to handle the detritus? I always thought it was a bad idea to have a 'detritus trap' and that is why I do not have any LiveRock in my refugium. Maybe I should rethink this.. also will check out Hach - I was just about to purchase a Hanna checker but was confused over their Phosphate vs Phosporous checkers. Currently I donlt test for phosphate (tried Salifert and API)

I don't know if it is a bad idea or not. Maybe it depends on the tnak.

The Brutes are about 3/4 full of rock, with open water and macroalgae at the top 6" or so. Water enters at the bottom and leaves at the top. I'm sure there is deteritus there (and I use it for settling to keep solid particulates out of the water column).

FWIW, I can easily see (but have never removed) a think layer of detritus mud on the bottom of my sump (where I have heaters, etc).

For the Hanna checker, get the phosphorus checker because it is more accurate at the low end. They detect exactly the same thing: only inorganic phosphate.

FWIW, I don't test for phosphate or nitrate either, although I have in the past.
 
I blast my rocks whenever I do a water change. It makes me feel like I'm actually removing some of the detritus even though it's probably very little that is actually getting siphoned out with the waste water.
 
I do it once every month or so. Sometimes I might wait two months, but I really should do it more often. I got some used vortechs for a good deal so my 65 has 2 mp40 and mp10 and those rocks are always clean until I get the 120 setup!
 
I used to do it weekly when I was using key largo rock. Those pockets were detritus traps. Now with my cerameco structure there is no need. The few times I have done it yielded very little visible results.
 
I am using reef cleaner / Marco rocks.. I thought all the pores and crevices would be good for bacteria and frag plugs but now realize they are detritus traps like you say. Until I get it fully stocked with coral I think I need to blast more frequently
 
My tank never looked better when I blasted the rock daily at the least. I would see a feeding response in my coral and assume they were feeding on the detritus. Lately I have only been doing it every couple weeks and the coral has definitely slowed in growth. I can't say for certain this is the cause because the tank isn't getting the attention it once was.
 
I blast my rocks before every water change which I do a 20% change a week but I don't use a turkey baster I use a maxi jet 400 a lot faster
image.jpg
 
I blast my rockwork 3x weekly and especially before a water change
 
I think your gona need a bigger CUC. is my answer. Too many tanks are deficient or badly stocked, with the wrong sort, because they don't know either what it eats, how, how often, and if they're compatible with each other. And the tank owner don't keep up with whats going on with his inverts population. i have some dust thats unavoidable, waterflow will send sands and debris from what ever is happening in the tank. But if you have food accumulation that causes, nitrate problem, its a lack in a proper CUC.

One in particular is the brittle star or and serpent star. Both are basically stomachs on foot. Each disc contains 6 stomach pouch, and when they eat they kina go dormant for a bit. One reason you don't see them often. In my 150G i have 12 serpent and brittle stars. None will eat at the same time, or on the same nights. But i'll have at least one moving and working daytime or night time for sure while the others are resting or digesting. They don't have much to feed so after eatinga bit they can be quite a while without eating. So you can stack those up for detritus eating specially if you want to see them moving. I'm actually going for the number 20 in my tank. One advantage of these guys is that they do rocks, not only sand like most snails.

And i have no hermith because they eat snails, it doesn't matter how cute they are all crabs and hermiths are *****. And you'll have to buy new snails every 2-3 months or so.If you really want hermith get the smallest and don't put any bigger shells they'll die small but at least they wont take your snails with them.


Urchins eat the most variety of algeas more than any snails combine. one per 50G is enoughor they'll starve to death.

Conch is the best snail bar none for algaes and again one per 50 gallon or it'll also starve, churns your sand really good too.

Babylonia zeylanica ,areolata the big babylobian snails are the best detritus eating machines and live for ever. some say its attacks, if you were starving you'd eat anything too, they need to be fed enough i only have 15 in my 150 G so 1 per 10 G is enough. And you have to feed it. Or yes it may attack others.

Nassarius are also good and no relation to babylonians like some say, totally different genus.

Stay away from sand sifting starfish it basically eats every microbes in your sandbed leaving it sterile and it can no longer help in the biochemical clean up of your tank period. And sooner than later it will starve too.

Fromia starfish and the like are the best since they eat algaes and microalgaes before they become a problem and some microfauna.

Turbosnails are very good too but night crawlers.

Some snails live at 69oF and to put the at 77oF+ wil kill them slowly by cooking them and they'll die.

Your best friend in a tank is a cucumber, tigertails are the safest IMO .They digest left over poop into its basic elements and return the sand completely cleaned up and areate your sand too.

Cerith snails but i do without i do my own glass.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Basile - I had a variety of snails in the tank and they all kicked the bucket over the 6 months except for about 6 zombie snails (my tank is 80G). I do have a handful of small hermits, I have not seen then attack any snails. I also have 5 tiger conch, but honestly I never see them move around at all and I think some are dead.

I was thinking or brittle stars (have a few small ones that peek their arms out every now and then), but was afraid of getting anything bigger as I do not want to lose my pistol shrimp and was afraid a big star might get hime or some of my smaller fish I have in there.

Never heard of Babylonia zeylanica ,areolata - so I will look them up.

Maybe I put all the snails in too early when the tank was too clean and they ended up starving. I do keep my tank at 77, dkH 9, PH 8.0 - so maybe I will try to get some snails again.
 
Thanks Basile - I had a variety of snails in the tank and they all kicked the bucket over the 6 months except for about 6 zombie snails (my tank is 80G). I do have a handful of small hermits, I have not seen then attack any snails. I also have 5 tiger conch, but honestly I never see them move around at all and I think some are dead.

I was thinking or brittle stars (have a few small ones that peek their arms out every now and then), but was afraid of getting anything bigger as I do not want to lose my pistol shrimp and was afraid a big star might get hime or some of my smaller fish I have in there.

Never heard of Babylonia zeylanica ,areolata - so I will look them up.

Maybe I put all the snails in too early when the tank was too clean and they ended up starving. I do keep my tank at 77, dkH 9, PH 8.0 - so maybe I will try to get some snails again.

You'll rarely see that happening anyway hermith are little sh... and they do that at night they take the snails behing the rock too lol. They want their shells. Then they attack each other and you are left with just a handfull of them just like now. I don't know how much bioload you have but an 80G has a lot of covergage, you could easely have 6 serpent stars, and 20 nassarius snails 2 conch for your algae on your sand and sand churning, one fromia seastar, goes everywhere; if your tank is one year old. Plus a few turbos for the nights and a cucumber for the poop. A good serpent star for and during the day is this one

660.jpg



It doesn't mind the light during the day

This one below is the fromia

876.jpg



The babylonian snails, or also called Brown blotch snails

Photo213-1.jpg


After each day leave a piece of dried algae for them if they eat it during the night its because they're starving. A good way to keep them alive.
 
Last edited:

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top