How often do you change the Filters in your RO Machine?

I will never know for sure exactly what it was about the water. I know it wasn't something in the tank, because I filled another thinking it might be. I picked three of my hardiest fish and tried it. Same problem. They freaked out and started swimming in loop-de-loops...I tried to get them all out right away, but one of my test fish died. T.T The survivors recovered relatively quickly when they were placed in the "good" water of the tank I'd already had up with no water change.

Nobody experienced (at least in my area, I hear) uses unfiltered tap water in their tanks. They've pretty much all had the same experience at one time or another.

You would have been correct about not using RO a couple of years ago. However, there are now "reclamation" solutions available (such as Seachem's Replenish and Fresh Trace) to replace the needed elements.

You sure the water was not too hot or too cold?

I once killed all my Freshwater Fish by doing a big water change with water that was too hot for them.
 
I actually just changed my RO DI filters 2 days ago after 9 months. My TDS were creeping over 5 and from what I have read, anything over 5 was time to change. The resin was also nasty so both got changed as well.. I see tap for my fresh water tank and the RO DI for my salt. Actually had to put a pressure reducer in to back it down to 50 as we have about 90 coming into the house...
 
I went over a year last change. Everything in tank was healthy and no algae at all.
 
All of this is dependent on your incoming water from your municipality...
When living in Washington state, I never used RODI water...the water from my area was aquifer water that was not treated unless there was a contamination...never any chlorine or chloramine in the water excluding a few times in the summer when some certain numbers were too high...then I got water from my LFS who had an rodi...
Now that I live in VA ... Down the street from the water treatment facility...it always smells like chloramine/chlorine...so it's been a year and time to change my regular filters.(TDS of 7).....my DI is still good and so is my membrane...
 
90 isnt too bad for most membranes. 80-90 is good imo...id maybe rethink the reducer and you may get better efficiency. I change my prefilters 6-9months and di as necessary.
 
I just changed mine agree 6 months. TDS was still reading zero but I noticed a loss of pressure. After changing the first two stages (mech., carbon) everything returned to normal. Either way once my TDS readings are greater than 0 the resin will at least be changed.
 
I change mine every two months based on color. I can see a noticeable color change from new after my first batch of approx 10 gal of water. I never see a change in TDS from the RO membrane tho. It always outputs 5-6 ppm that I take to zero with the DI bed. After two months my particulate filter is a fairly solid reddish color and I change the carbon also as a matter of course.

I don't know the TDS of my unfiltered well water but other testing has shown it to be closer to food than water. It is delicious I will say, especially in the cold winter months.
 
The standard practice is to change the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months and while you have the system down disinfect it at that time. Since sediment and carbon filters have very little to absolutely nothing to do with TDS that is not an indicator of filter condition. Their sole purpose is to protect the RO membrane which is where 90-98% of the TDS is removed. TDS is total dissolved solids, things in solution. The sediment and carbon remove TSS, total suspended solids, big stuff in suspension like silt, sediment, particulates and colloidal materials, sometimes large enough to be seen with the human eye. TDS is in the 0.0001 micron range so a sediment filter will not touch it and the carbon removes chlorine and some volatiles but maybe 1-2 ppm TDS, not significant in the grand scheme of things.

Another method is to use a pressure gauge, or better yet two pressure gauges, one before the sediment filter and one after the carbon block to measure headloss or pressur drop which is evidence of filter plugging or fouling. Along with tht you need a low range chlorine test kit to monitor chlorine breakthru from exhausted or fouled carbon. carbon is made up f billions of tiny pores where the chlorine is adsorbed and when those pores are plugged the chlorine passes through and an ruin a RO membrane,

Its usually easier to stick with 6 month intervals for most users.

You change the DI resin when the finished water TDS is no longer 0 on a consistent basis. You may see a slightly elevated TDS when first starting to make wate reach time but it should pass quickly, if not your DI is exhausted.

You change the RO membrane when the rejection rate or removal efficiency is o longer in the say 95+% range which is when it starts costing you mre in replacement DI resins than the cost of a new efficient membrane would be.

To troubleshoot a RO/DI you need three TDS readings, tap water, RO only water before the DI and final RO/DI water. It takes all three readings so inline TDS meters are not as desirable as a good handheld meter since most only monitor two places, usually RO only and RO/DI so you have no idea what your rejection rate or removal efficiency is since you do not have the tap water TDS which is what is used to calculate the rejection rate along with the RO TDS. The other important tool is an inline prssure gauge to monitor the headloss. This is critial since reduced pressure at the membrane reduces its efficiency and eats DI resin faster.

Color changing DIis very unreliable in almost all cases. It can change all at once, not at all, in streaks or layers, and any number of things but almost always you are already passing TDS and weakly ionized substances way before the resin turns colors. A handheld TDS or conductivity meter is your best friend.
 
All kinds of crazy stuff started happening in my tank all the sudden and I finally traced it all back to my RODI unit. I was at 027ppm. But the point is all hell broke loose and all day long that top off water went into the tank screwing things up.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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