How set up a QT

[ltrace]

I want to purchase more fish and an anemone but want to do it right way this time by quarantining first. I have a 10gal tank that I want to use. Is that large enough to quarantine maybe at most 2 fish? I also have a over the tank filter would that work as well? what else would I need to complete the setup?

 

[BummersReef]

Just did the exact same thing about 3 weeks ago ... 10 gallon with hang on back
- my understanding is 10 gallon is ok as long as you are not putting in two or more BIG fish
- hang on back filter is fine
- you also need an air stone or some other way to move the water and aerate (get some oxygen in there)
- heater! (nothing fancy) and a thermometer (cheapy is probably fine)
- a basic light, nothing fancy (I think just an over head light in the room would do)
- a little hiddy place/s (like a piece of PVC pipe) for your freaked out fish to hide in
- perhaps a sponge or piece of live rock that has been in your main system just to get the bio filtration going - you'll want to take the rock out and back into main system before you add a fish though
- ammonia alert badge or test for ammonia every day (or better, both!)

there is a good article here somewhere about how to set up a quarantine tank but can't find it right now .. sorry

 

[Anthony Wood]

10 gallon would be fine for a majority of fish. Even really small tangs. I QT my salfin in a biocube when I was the size of a quarter In order to get it to start eating prepared foods. A HOB (hang on back) filter will work perfect that'll take care of water movement. Just take the filter pad with carbon in it out if you plan on treating with copper. You'll need a heater and some PVC pipe appropriate size to the fish so that the fish can hide in it and feel safe. Without a hiding spot the fish will be very stressed. You can put a small low power light over the tank but it's not needed as long as it's in a room that it'll get some ambient light either from a window or your display.

The only drawbacks are that being such a small tank you'll be changing water quite often to keep up with water quality. Also be sure that you keep a close eye on the water level to maintain a consistent salinity. Swinging salinity will stress the fish. Although an ATO will save you the hassle of topping off.

Hope that helps! Keep it simple! Just be sure the tank is cycled before you add anything. Last note If you plan on putting more then one fish in the tank I would recommend separating them with something as simple as a piece of plexiglass cut to the correct size and holes in it small enough that the fish can't go back and forth.

 

[BummersReef]

Last note If you plan on putting more then one fish in the tank I would recommend separating them with something as simple as a piece of plexiglass cut to the correct size and holes in it small enough that the fish can't go back and forth.

would that separating thing apply if they are 2 or 3 of the same species? I'm going to be putting in three chromis soon ....?

 

[joro]

The advice thus far is spot on and a few recommendations/points -

1. As was mentioned, a 10G will definitely work but you're going to want to be selective on the number of fish. A few small chromis are fine but if you are looking to go bigger (e.g. Tangs, Rabbitfish, etc), you may quickly exhaust room and/or stress the fish out more.
2. I'd also make sure to get one the SeaChem Ammonia Alert badges, it's $8 well spent and will provide you a quick visual indicator that the ammonia isn't getting to dangerous levels.
3. I prefer getting a small powerhead which breaks the surface of the water to provide oxygen exchange rather than the bubblers but both will work. The powerhead gives you flow and the aeration, so killing 2 birds with one stone!
4. As @Anthony Wood mentioned be prepared to do more water changes, less volume typically means you need to keep up with the parameters a bit better which is why I opted for larger QTs (I have a 20G and 29G running right now for this purpose FYI)
5. Make sure you're spending time in front of the tank everyday observing behavior and general health, a lot of things can be treated more successfully if you catch it earlier rather than later

The link that was referenced (which I definitely recommend checking out) is here - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815

Good luck!

 

[joro]

Here's a shot of my 29G setup as well if it helps and note that I did switch the top out for one using lighting egg crate which provides better air exchange as well (that's in the second shot with the lights off)

 

[BummersReef]

while we are on this subject ... <grin> ... we currently have no fish in our QT but tested the water at LFS about 4 days ago and got high nitrates. ... like 50 or something horrible like that. So we did a 2/3 water change and tested again (at home with Salifert kit) and they are still high ... 50 ..?? we plan on trying to narrow the cause down bit by bit ... any thoughts how what we need to look at? we have a plastic tiki hut thingie in there for hiding and wondered if that could be the problem? but nitrates were fine for weeks with that. it was only after we took the fish out and into DT that the nitrates spiked ?? (bugging me to try and figure out what the deal could be)
we do have an used 45 gallon tank and stand we could use instead for our QT but then it won't fit in kid's room where she is keeping an eye and doing testing etc. ....

 

[Anthony Wood]

would that separating thing apply if they are 2 or 3 of the same species? I'm going to be putting in three chromis soon ....?

Yes seperate them even though they are the same species you don't want them bullying each other which will happen. Let them acclimate have no stress from moving, are eating well then put them together. That way when bullying occurs to determine the "pecking" order they will be strong and healthy to be able to handle it.

 

[BummersReef]

thank you Anthony!

 

[ltrace]

10 gallon would be fine for a majority of fish. Even really small tangs. I QT my salfin in a biocube when I was the size of a quarter In order to get it to start eating prepared foods. A HOB (hang on back) filter will work perfect that'll take care of water movement. Just take the filter pad with carbon in it out if you plan on treating with copper. You'll need a heater and some PVC pipe appropriate size to the fish so that the fish can hide in it and feel safe. Without a hiding spot the fish will be very stressed. You can put a small low power light over the tank but it's not needed as long as it's in a room that it'll get some ambient light either from a window or your display.

The only drawbacks are that being such a small tank you'll be changing water quite often to keep up with water quality. Also be sure that you keep a close eye on the water level to maintain a consistent salinity. Swinging salinity will stress the fish. Although an ATO will save you the hassle of topping off.

Hope that helps! Keep it simple! Just be sure the tank is cycled before you add anything. Last note If you plan on putting more then one fish in the tank I would recommend separating them with something as simple as a piece of plexiglass cut to the correct size and holes in it small enough that the fish can't go back and forth.

I plan on treating with chloroquine would I still have to take the carbon filter pad out?

 

[ltrace]

The advice thus far is spot on and a few recommendations/points -

1. As was mentioned, a 10G will definitely work but you're going to want to be selective on the number of fish. A few small chromis are fine but if you are looking to go bigger (e.g. Tangs, Rabbitfish, etc), you may quickly exhaust room and/or stress the fish out more.
2. I'd also make sure to get one the SeaChem Ammonia Alert badges, it's $8 well spent and will provide you a quick visual indicator that the ammonia isn't getting to dangerous levels.
3. I prefer getting a small powerhead which breaks the surface of the water to provide oxygen exchange rather than the bubblers but both will work. The powerhead gives you flow and the aeration, so killing 2 birds with one stone!
4. As @Anthony Wood mentioned be prepared to do more water changes, less volume typically means you need to keep up with the parameters a bit better which is why I opted for larger QTs (I have a 20G and 29G running right now for this purpose FYI)
5. Make sure you're spending time in front of the tank everyday observing behavior and general health, a lot of things can be treated more successfully if you catch it earlier rather than later

The link that was referenced (which I definitely recommend checking out) is here - https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815

Good luck!

Thanks you for your advice and the link.