How to Control Green Algae?

maroma · May 27, 2018

Hello All,

I'm NEW to R2R & Hobby -- Started the Saltwater Hobby back 9.10.2017 with a Fluval 13.5 gallon. Just recently started getting green Algea maybe 2 months ago. DNT know what happened.

Water Change every week.
Light on for about 2 hours
Water Parameters good.

I know I need a bigger tank but can't afford it at this time. But eventually I will safe up to get myself an upgrade to help with water fluctuations.

any suggestions.

Crabs McJones · May 28, 2018

maroma said:
Hello All,

I'm NEW to R2R & Hobby -- Started the Saltwater Hobby back 9.10.2017 with a Fluval 13.5 gallon. Just recently started getting green Algea maybe 2 months ago. DNT know what happened.

Water Change every week.

Light on for about 2 hours

Water Parameters good.

I know I need a bigger tank but can't afford it at this time. But eventually I will safe up to get myself an upgrade to help with water fluctuations.

any suggestions.

Where is your source water coming from? Rodi or tap?
And welcome to R2R!!

maroma · May 28, 2018

Source of water - Bottle of Arrowhead Water

Crabs McJones · May 28, 2018

maroma said:
Source of water - Bottle of Arrowhead Water

I would strongly recommend investing in an RODI unit. Basically what's happening is the arrowhead water has TDS (total dissolved solids) in it, about 130 according to the website. And this is nutrients for the algae. An rodi unit provides you with 0 tds water which provides no excess nutrients for the algae to feed on. If you cannot get an rodi unit check with your local fish store they may sell it.

mike werner · May 28, 2018

welcome,you'll kick that algae problem

NY_Caveman · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R! I agree about an RO/DI unit. If you do use bottled water, I would suggest only using distilled.

Also, if you feed a lot, you may want to cut back some and monitor what happens.

GoVols · May 28, 2018

Hello, @maroma

Welcome to Reef 2 Reef and hope you feel at home!!

An RO/DI unit with an built in TDS meter is an must, as stated above.

From looking at your reef:
It looks like the GHA is contained (mostly) to your rock structure.

The structure could be leaching phosphates and fueling the gha.

If so, the gha could hold in the phosphates and not letting the phosphates to float free in the water column.
Then your test would show low on no phos, because it could be bound up in the gha.

Again:
Welcome to Reef 2 Reef

bw777 · May 28, 2018

see if you can get some store credit for that chromis, those clowns are going to kill it
,

mike werner · May 28, 2018

bw777 said:
see if you can get some store credit for that chromis, those clowns are going to kill it
,

going to kill it?how long has the chromis been in the tank?

SPR1968 · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R @maroma !

As said above a RODI unit in a saltwater system is essential (or good LFS water) so you need to sort out the basics for long term success as your currently just providing food for the algae and it’s growing.

Once you have dealt with the source of the problem, if you want a quick fix you could look at Vibrant liquid and there is a massive thread on here about it, and I’ve used it myself for a short period and it destroyed the green hair algae. BUT, you must deal with the route cause.

KJ · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R!!!

o00brandon00o · May 28, 2018

@Marina Welcome to R2R!!!

Mikedawg · May 28, 2018

I only saw two hermit crabs; bet a few Astrea snails would help control the GHA in addition to above advice. Just part of reefing and you'll get it under control. BTW, assume lights on 12 hours per day?

dbl · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R and thanks for signing up.

larryl · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R!

maroma · May 28, 2018

Hello All,

Thank You, Very much for all the FeedBack - should have joined long time ago.. Just heard about R2R.

Chromis - Been in tank Oct. 2017..
Clown Fish - May 2018 had them for a week so far they have been playing. Fine.
I have 1 trobo snail
hermit crabs 6

Will look into investing on a RO/DI system it will benefit me once I make the big Move to a bigger tank.

Turbo's Aquatics · May 28, 2018

Welcome to R2R!

Here's a pic from one of my favorite articles on reefkeeping, applicable to new hobbyists and old as well:

The above pic comes from #15 in this article, which I would suggest reading: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/

The nitrogen cycle is only the startup of a SW tank cycle. The next 6-12 months is a maturing phase, and it's typically in this time frame where algae outbreaks occur and things can sort of roller-coaster, and if you stock the tank up too quickly, you might see corals randomly dying & fish getting sick, etc...hobbyists can very easily fall into the trap of chasing problems = making more problems => giving up and selling everything off. We don't want that to happen to anyone!

Long-term stability and balance are the keys, and you just can't shortcut the process significantly. That's always the #1 thing to keep in mind!

revhtree · May 28, 2018

Floyd R Turbo said:
Welcome to R2R!

Here's a pic from one of my favorite articles on reefkeeping, applicable to new hobbyists and old as well:

The above pic comes from #15 in this article, which I would suggest reading: http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/eb/

The nitrogen cycle is only the startup of a SW tank cycle. The next 6-12 months is a maturing phase, and it's typically in this time frame where algae outbreaks occur and things can sort of roller-coaster, and if you stock the tank up too quickly, you might see corals randomly dying & fish getting sick, etc...hobbyists can very easily fall into the trap of chasing problems = making more problems => giving up and selling everything off. We don't want that to happen to anyone!

Long-term stability and balance are the keys, and you just can't shortcut the process significantly. That's always the #1 thing to keep in mind!