how to correctly read Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge

[Acalin]

Hello all,

I'm running a QT tank for my fish as I am treating for ich with copper (Coppersafe).
Becasue I wanted to get into medicating as soon as possible, I set up the QT with some water from the DT and a few matrix rocks from the sump.
Unfortunately that wasn't enough to have an instantly cycled QT so I have to keep an eye on my ammonia levels.

Since I am using Coppersafe, I read that the Seachem ammonia alert badge would be the only one that would be somewhat realiable with this treatment.
The issue I am having is that I am seeing 2 different things on the badge, depending on whehter I have the aquarium light on or off.
I am posting the 2 pictures below for comparison and what I am looking for is some info/direction on how to correctly read them.

When I have the tank lights on, the light is basically in the back of the badge and as it lights through it, I am seeing a yellow color on the indicator (showing a safe level).
If I turn the tank light off and turn the room light on to look at the badge, I am seeing a green color, indicating an "Alert" level of ammonia.

Which one should I go by? Looking at the fish, they seem ok. No heavy brething, not trying to stay close to the surface, so I assume the ammonia is likely in the safe level.
Yet, I don't want to just assume that they are ok, I want to be sure and the correct reading of the Seachem badge would give me some reassurance. I would hate to start losing fish because of a bad reading or a sign that I missed.

I'm only using a 10 gal QT so making water changes it's not that difficult in case I have ammonia spikes, but I would rather avoid these water changes if possible.
Done already a 50% water change yesterday and the same again today, but starting today I am counting the 30 day period for my copper treatment as I just got at 1.7 ppm last evening and I am a bit nervous because I don't want to somehow get below that therapeutic level with all these water changes.
It eats pretty quickly my reagent supply too becasue I do a test for the QT water before water change to see where my copper is at, and then another test for the new water that I am adding to make sure I have enough copper in it. a 3rd reagent bag goes in the evening when I check again the copper level in the QT. So 3 tests a day will have me go through almost 4 packs of reagent by the time I hit the 30 day treatment period.

Any input/advice on how to correctly read that Seachem badge would help a lot!
Thank you in advance!

 

[MnFish1]

I think both show a different color than yellow. I believe the badge is meant to be read with the tank light on. That said - (I've been doing some experiments with them) - when they are 'yellow' - they are yellow with the lights on or off.

So - it seems like you have a very slightly high free ammonia level.

 

[Acalin]

I think both show a different color than yellow. I believe the badge is meant to be read with the tank light on. That said - (I've been doing some experiments with them) - when they are 'yellow' - they are yellow with the lights on or off.

So - it seems like you have a very slightly high free ammonia level.

Agreed. That's why I started doing the preventive 50% water change daily since yesterday.
If it's a more yellow than green (like in the 1st picture with the tank ligths on) I am not that concerned but as soon as it starts darkening towards that Alert value, I am mixing my 5 gal bucket to do the water change.

So I am usually trying to go with the worst case scenario, and that's why I check that badge with tank lights off to see how it looks and if anything other than yellow, I'll do a water change.

Thank you for the quick response!

 

[MnFish1]

Agreed. That's why I started doing the preventive 50% water change daily since yesterday.
If it's a more yellow than green (like in the 1st picture with the tank ligths on) I am not that concerned but as soon as it starts darkening towards that Alert value, I am mixing my 5 gal bucket to do the water change.

So I am usually trying to go with the worst case scenario, and that's why I check that badge with tank lights off to see how it looks and if anything other than yellow, I'll do a water change.

Thank you for the quick response!

No problem. I don't think you can go wrong with water changes. One warning - make sure that you mix the salt per the directions (some need prolonged mixing) - I know that sounds like a stupid comment - but its surprising how mixing it wrong especially when you're doing large percent water changes

 

[z0mbeh]

I have also had some issues reading those in light vs dark. I go by light being on, I tested it using an ammonia test kit when it looked dark like that and it was undetectable.