How to deal with Ich

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I have ich in my 120 gallon DT. Current stock:

Small Yellow Tang
Small Kole Tang
Small Blue Hippo Tang
2 fairy wrasses
six line wrasse
2 clowns
2 chromis

I have a 20 gallon laying around which i can turn into a QT, but i suspect that's a bit too small for the fish above. What's the smallest QT i need to set up for above?
 
I’d say three 20g tanks (all connected to each other so you can evenly dose copper). The clowns could get aggressive in a small tank like that. Ideally, you’d get a 55g for all fish.
 
You could actually make that work in a 20 gal QT, but ammonia will probably be an issue without a strong biofilter. Using multiple PVC elbows should mitigate aggression between the tangs. However, a 40 breeder would be the better option. Maybe Petco is running their $ per gal sale right now?
 
You could actually make that work in a 20 gal QT, but ammonia will probably be an issue without a strong biofilter. Using multiple PVC elbows should mitigate aggression between the tangs. However, a 40 breeder would be the better option. Maybe Petco is running their $ per gal sale right now?
+1 40b is a great all around QT.

Easy to work in. Nice round number for dosing meds. Also about as large as you can get without a center brace so catching fish is a breeze.
 
I have ich in my 120 gallon DT. Current stock:

Small Yellow Tang
Small Kole Tang
Small Blue Hippo Tang
2 fairy wrasses
six line wrasse
2 clowns
2 chromis

I have a 20 gallon laying around which i can turn into a QT, but i suspect that's a bit too small for the fish above. What's the smallest QT i need to set up for above?

If you don't have any inverts or corals you can do Hyposalinity right in your current tank setup for 3 months to get rid of it.
 
If you don't have any inverts or corals you can do Hyposalinity right in your current tank setup for 3 months to get rid of it.
There are a few concerns with this method:

1) Velvet is often misidentified as ich (not effectively treated with hypo)
2) Brook is often misidentified as ich (not effectively treated with hypo)
3) There are strains of ich that can survive hyposaline conditions
4) It can be difficult to keep the salinty in the narrow-band required to traditionally eradicate most strains of ich. If the salinity rises above this (as water evaporates for example) for even a few minutes, ich can complete it's life cycle thus nullifying the "therapeutic time" prior.

A much better course of action would be Chloroquine Phosphate in a 40B or Copper (Copper Power and Hanna Copper Checker) in a 40B. Biospira is a great product for kickstarting bacteria and it's readily available. Fritz Turbostart 9000 is better but much more expensive and not available in many stores or even amazon yet.

Since the Hanna Copper Checker was "discovered" by @HotRocks as being immensely accurate for ALL forms of copper tested -- we can keep the therapeutic level therapeutic but not overbearing. We've learned that the most commonly used copper product "Copper Safe" prior had IMMENSELY varied potency depending on the bottle used and you could be dosing 3.0-5.5 PPM copper by following the instructions on the bottle (as we have confirmed). Occasionally a bottle was correct in "potency", but the next one would be completely different and previous copper testing methods left a LOT to be desired and even if tested most wouldn't be able to tell 1PPM from 2.5PPM on many tests.

All of the above led to people keeping fish in MUCH higher copper concentrations than necessary which I believe is what led to many copper deaths (myself included). Now that we can keep the levels at 1.75 EASILY with the Hanna Copper Checker and Copper Power -- it's been a MUCH easier road with dozens of fish through without much issue.

The new problem we are seeing a lot more of is bacterial infections and Uronema. Both are much more deadly than ich or velvet and horrifying prospects. I'd keep metroplex and spectrogram on hand.
 
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With that fish load....I do a 40/B if you can and just run therapeutic copper for 30 days. Although be careful with the wrasses. might wanna ramp a good 5-7 days.

Trying to transfer would be doable, but with tanks that size, it can be a lot harder. When I do TTM...I never use anything over 10-15/G because they're a lot easier to throw around. I'm in an apartment too. Imagine trying to clean a 40/B in the bathtub! :p
 

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