How to do a water change

  • Thread starter Thread starter ashley
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
I can't see how low below the water level your return is. Again turn off the pump first. Since you have flexible return pipe, if you can bend the end up above the water line quickly the siphon will break just like a hole.
 
I can't see how low below the water level your return is. Again turn off the pump first. Since you have flexible return pipe, if you can bend the end up above the water line quickly the siphon will break just like a hole.
Ok and what about the water in the over flow section? It will drain into the sump right? I'll try to get a better pic
 
That you'll have to see if it's a lot. Usually the drain is way less so not as big of a deal. itll only siphon down what's in the overflow box not the display
 
Ok...sorry if I have some many question I'm new to the whole sump thing. Here's some pics.

20170315_203305.jpg


View attachment 20170315_203329.jpg

20170315_203317.jpg



20170315_203404.jpg


View attachment 20170315_203333.jpg
 
When the water level falls under the T on the white drain pvc will it break the siphon on the drain from the overflow to the sump?
 
Ok so tell me if this is right. I want to do a water change and make sure that the power ever goes out it won't overflow. So first I unplug the return pump then bend the return nozzle. Then I let the overflow drain till it breaks the siphon.? What next....also I think too much water is draining into the sump from the return pipe...the water is coming from the return and emptying into the filter sock but its over flowing out the top of the filter sock
 
You have 2 different issues going on here and it seems to be getting confusing.

1) How to do a water change: You can do it from the DT or the sump, whatever method works better for you. It's all the same body of water. The bending of the return line is bad practice because you will not be around when a power outage happens, which is the next and more important issue.

2)Make sure your sump can handle the water that siphons from the DT when the return pump is turned off or power outage. This should be your #1 worry right now because if you have a power outage and your sump can not handle the amount of water you will get water on your floor. Some water will come from your drain until it gets to that T but more water will come from the return pump line. If you can show a picture of your return pump line going in to the tank we can help out. Or you need to turn off all pumps/skimmer and see if your sump can handle it. If it can then you are good. If not then you need to fix it.
 
You have 2 different issues going on here and it seems to be getting confusing.

1) How to do a water change: You can do it from the DT or the sump, whatever method works better for you. It's all the same body of water. The bending of the return line is bad practice because you will not be around when a power outage happens, which is the next and more important issue.

2)Make sure your sump can handle the water that siphons from the DT when the return pump is turned off or power outage. This should be your #1 worry right now because if you have a power outage and your sump can not handle the amount of water you will get water on your floor. Some water will come from your drain until it gets to that T but more water will come from the return pump line. If you can show a picture of your return pump line going in to the tank we can help out. Or you need to turn off all pumps/skimmer and see if your sump can handle it. If it can then you are good. If not then you need to fix it.
Ok that makes sense. And yes I do I these two issues. So when I get home today I will take a pic of the return to the tank. So in the instance that it can't handle it. How do I correct that issue? How would I go about filling the tank and the sump to the correct level. Right now the water is coming in to the sump via the durso bit it's overflowing out of the filter sock.
 
I turn off the pump heaters in my sump. Let the water settle to the sump then siphon the water from the sump and return new water to the sump. I know my sump is 15% of my total volume when full so it makes it easy.

I leave my power heads of for circulation in the DT while doing the change. I'm not a sand cleaner so I don't touch the DT unless I'm blowing off rocks. Been debating that stance but I'm afraid I may be too late in the game to start cleaning the sand now. Plus I have a lot of critters that help keep my sand clean that I don't want to risk loosing.
 
Ok that makes sense. And yes I do I these two issues. So when I get home today I will take a pic of the return to the tank. So in the instance that it can't handle it. How do I correct that issue? How would I go about filling the tank and the sump to the correct level. Right now the water is coming in to the sump via the durso bit it's overflowing out of the filter sock.

If the sump can't handle the overflow, with a siphon break your only true recourse is to get a bigger sump.
The water in the tank and sump with find it's own equilibrium/self level when all is working as it should.
How often do you wash the filter sock?
 
At the risk of repeating myself...


1. Drain a fair bit of water from the sump's return section. (as much as possible while allowing the return pump to still run)
2. Turn the return pump off and let all of the pipes drain.
3. If the sump still can't handle the drain back the you need to modify the returns by drilling a hole or moving them higher in the tank.
4. You can now add water to the sump to a height that you feel comfortable with; I have mine set so with drainage, the water level is 2" below the top of the sump.
5. Turn the return pump on.
6. Once stable, mark the water level in your return section. This is your new standard operating level and should be the place where your ATO float should be.
7. Turn off the return and let everything drain to test the level in the sump.
 
At the risk of repeating myself...


1. Drain a fair bit of water from the sump's return section. (as much as possible while allowing the return pump to still run)
2. Turn the return pump off and let all of the pipes drain.
3. If the sump still can't handle the drain back the you need to modify the returns by drilling a hole or moving them higher in the tank.
4. You can now add water to the sump to a height that you feel comfortable with; I have mine set so with drainage, the water level is 2" below the top of the sump.
5. Turn the return pump on.
6. Once stable, mark the water level in your return section. This is your new standard operating level and should be the place where your ATO float should be.
7. Turn off the return and let everything drain to test the level in the sump.
Ok thanks that makes total sense. Now would you recommend while doing a water change to do it from the sump in the return chamber?
 
My answer would be that it depends.

I normally do it from the DT so that I can suck up any debris in the tank. You can only take a limited amount of water this way without turning the return pump off, otherwise the pump will run dry.

I'll occasionally pump water out of the sump so that I can remove any detritus.
 
ReefFloat Automatic Water Changer...google it....worth every penny in my opinion.
 
How close is the return outlet to the water surface of your display? Don't think I saw a pic of that. If it is at the surface you shouldn't get much flow back to the sump. Mine is on the surface and I get about an inch flow back.
 
I am not sure if you already performed the WC but it seems your sump located under the DT.
Adjusting the flow will make it easier but it also requires lot of effort to change some part of the plumbing so you can adjust the flow rate according to your needs.

BEST METHOD: If the sump located under the DT and pulling out the water from DT automatically (gravity) than always shut off the return pump and wait, Watch how far the water level goes in your SUMP. Once it stabilized (as the water level of you DT goes down and overflow will block it automatically) than you have to remove water from your DT, you can remove water from your SUMP too. it will not create any issue. Once done, you have to add new water in your DT and let it goes to the SUMP through the Over Flow box. THIS WAY YOU CAN EASILY ADJUST THE WATER LEVEL OF YOUR DT AND YOUR SUMP. Because DT will fill up first than pass the water to SUMP and you when you think the water level of your SUMP is ok than turn the return pump on and let it function.

Advantage: It will give you a fair idea about the water level of the SUMP that you should maintain.
Never flood the sump as it will only hold excess water that came through the overflow of your DT.
Easy to maintain water level of your SUMP according to needs.
You DON'T HAVE TO CHANGE THE PLUMBING OR DO ANYTHING WITH IT TO ADJUST THE FLOW RATE.

I am using this method for all my tanks and I can use any plumbing (any diameter). Just make sure the Overflow can pass more water than your Return pump can push.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top