How to get the quickest cycle going?

[tankstudy]

As far as products go for nitrifying bacteria. I would say, Dr tims one and only or ATM marine colony are the best ones.

Never used bio spira.

I've used all three. Its just easier to purchase biospira at your large retail pet stores like petsmart and petco. They all work.

 

[germs101]

You all are great! Thank you for all of the quick responses!

 

[mkutsch]

I thought forced cycle shorteners were taboo...?

 

[Denisk]

I've used all three. Its just easier to purchase biospira at your large retail pet stores like petsmart and petco. They all work.

Well there's your answer! Lol we can all agree they all work.

 

[brandon429]

something pretty funny is at play here

what I do to simply clean my 11 yr old nano is 100x harsher than germs considering lifting out some live rocks and moving them over into a perfectly harmless tank

I take apart all my corals and rocks and set them on the counter, in the air, for 20 mins, while I rinse out the aged sandbed with tap water until its 100% clean. I then rinse that sand out with clean saltwater so there wont be chlorine, and then put the whole tank back together and skip the cycle, hundreds of times.

Not only is skip cycling possible, all of pico reefing is built on the premise post #1 is right, you can just skip the cycle and buy nothing.

There is a sand rinse thread kicked up a few posts below this one...six pages of skip cycle cleanings.

 

[Bluefish9]

I thought forced cycle shorteners were taboo...?

They WERE taboo in the distant past. In part because they didn't have the right type of bacteria. Once they got it right, they work great. Like everything else, they were/are still dismissed as taboo MOSTLY by people who never tried it and are just regurgitating what they read on some other forum, years ago.

The stuff does what its supposed to. No question.

 

[brandon429]

for sure I agree. when dealing with non live rock, bottle bac and ammonium chloride cycling works for sure, totally legit science. when dealing with live rock, not a single affordance is needed, we can just set up the new tank and put in some corals the second the live rock hits the water. this is how they build hundreds of tanks at MACNA conventions that hold $6000 bounce mushrooms day 1. some may opt to move over cycled filter material vs live rock, if they are using frag tank displays. same biology either way.


here's another skip cycle thread too:
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/

 

[Bluefish9]

for sure I agree. when dealing with non live rock, bottle bac and ammonium chloride cycling works for sure, totally legit science. when dealing with live rock, not a single affordance is needed, we can just set up the new tank and put in some corals the second the live rock hits the water. this is how they build hundreds of tanks at MACNA conventions that hold $6000 bounce mushrooms day 1

Well yes, because your biological filtration is already established. So long as you're pulling from one tank to another.

 

[Bluefish9]

You all are great! Thank you for all of the quick responses!

Isnt this forum like, the greatest lol? I dont even visit any of the other ones anymore. There are forums where people are friendly and try to help and then there are forums where little boys go to puff out their chest.
Im done with the later.

 

[94Roarge]

Isnt this forum like, the greatest lol? I dont even visit any of the other ones anymore. There are forums where people are friendly and try to help and then there are forums where little boys go to puff out their chest.
Im done with the later.

Amen!

 

[Michael E.]

I used Fritzyme 9 on my 125 startup. 95% of my scape was dry rock and live sand. I dumped the appropriate amount of fritzyme in my tank and waited about a week. I never saw a spike or anything. I was a little concerned, so I contacted the company and they told me to bring Ammonia up to 2-4PPM (I used ammonia from Ace hardware), and maintain it for about a week. They told me to add a TINY bit of flake food to add phosphates to the water. After about 5 days of that, the nitrites spiked. It took about 2-3 days for the nitrites to go to 0. My phosphate levels never really spiked. The Nitrates went up to 20, but started going down. They never went higher than 10 after that. I cycled with my skimmer on 50%, lights off, and a bio-pellet reactor. I had my wave maker pumps and return pump turned up higher than normal. I also had a fan in the sump and a fan on the DT. The cycle took about 1.5-2 weeks to complete. I didnt start adding fish until 4 weeks though (patience was definitely tested).

I think I drastically decreased the cycle time with the Fritzzyme product, but it still takes time. Even the Fritzzyme rep agreed that was the safest policy.

 

[Denisk]

Isnt this forum like, the greatest lol? I dont even visit any of the other ones anymore. There are forums where people are friendly and try to help and then there are forums where little boys go to puff out their chest.
Im done with the later.

Well said!

 

[mkutsch]

I agree.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

Kind of. It's supposed to work the same however I have had zero luck with that product.

i also did not have good luck with stability. after 12 days no sign of life.