How To Hard Plumb A Bypass?

[Forsaken77]

I want to plumb a bypass before and after my UV sterilizer for maintenance so the tank can keep running with the sterilizers offline.

What type of pieces, valves, or bypasses would I use for 1" plumbing?

 

[JoshH]

This would be the easiest way to do it you would need 2 T fittings 3 ball valves or gate valves whichever you prefer and Where ever you would like to add unions.

You could also plumb the UV with two 90 elbows and two unions then plumb a straight pipe the exact same length and just shut the return off, undo a couple unions and swap the straight piece for the plumbed UV or viceversa.

Or you could plumb a manifold and just shut the valve off to the UV on its own. Really there are lots of options here depending on where you want your UV set up and what works best for easiest access

 

[Forsaken77]

This would be the easiest way to do it you would need 2 T fittings 3 ball valves or gate valves whichever you prefer and Where ever you would like to add unions.

You could also plumb the UV with two 90 elbows and two unions then plumb a straight pipe the exact same length and just shut the return off, undo a couple unions and swap the straight piece for the plumbed UV or viceversa.

Or you could plumb a manifold and just shut the valve off to the UV on its own. Really there are lots of options here depending on where you want your UV set up and what works best for easiest access

I was thinking something like a 3-way valve that I could install right before a union to the UV. So I would just be able to turn the direction of the water flow from the sterilizer to the bypassed route. Then put another 3-way valve after the UV for the same purposes.

Something LIKE THIS, but in a pvc size. Do they make something like that? Just so I don't have to install all gate/ball valves and and extra parts.

 

[Vuuduu]

you can google this and will pop up the valve your looking for I think. They are a bit expensive but should last long time.

1" Lateral LA Series 3-Way Valve w/Threaded & Socket Ends

 

[Forsaken77]

The only thing I could find was a Hayward 1" true union 3-way valve, but it's $93 per valve! Is there anything a bit cheaper, but like this? A lot of the cheaper ones are for pools and have steel screws.

I wanted the UV to be on the straight through part and have the bypass go around behind it. Being I have 2 UV's and would need 4 of these valves, that's almost $400 just for the valves, lol. But it looks exactly like what I need.

 

[Forsaken77]

you can google this and will pop up the valve your looking for I think. They are a bit expensive but should last long time.

1" Lateral LA Series 3-Way Valve w/Threaded & Socket Ends

That's the exact one I found at $93 per valve x 4. I thought there would be a better option.

I know Googling it, but Google shows you who paid the most to be seen. Maybe a similar part someone has used or has a different approach.

 

[JoshH]

That's the exact one I found at $93 per valve x 4. I thought there would be a better option.

I know Googling it, but Google shows you who paid the most to be seen. Maybe a similar part someone has used or has a different approach.

I'll hunt around but valves in general aren't cheap and you're looking at a specialty valve so the cost goes along with it

 

[Forsaken77]

I'll hunt around but valves in general aren't cheap and you're looking at a specialty valve so the cost goes along with it

Doesn't necessarily have to be this part exactly. Just something that can accomplish the same purpose. Water being diverted to a bypass route, close off valves so both routes will close right at the main point of entry (not let water go a few inches in and then a shut off), and unions to separate the UV out of the line.

ANY pieces that can accomplish that. I showed the exact valve that would work perfectly, but if there's a way to assemble something to accomplish the same things, I'm open to it. Or else I gotta figure something else out because I'm not spending $400 on 4 valves, lol.

I'm just not accustomed to plumbing fittings and such, so I don't know what to look for.

 

[mknightryder]

If you have the room just run them off a manifold. I have mine off my manifold and the water that exits the UV is piped back to the top of the tank and into its own loc-line. Whenever I first had my UV installed it was under my tank attached to the bottom of my stand above the sump. It was out of the way but a pain to get to... Plus, it was horizontal and allowed air to get trapped in it. I tried dropping the inlet end/ raising the outlet end so the air could escape but it still would catch air inside the chamber. Almost half of the chamber would have air in it after a few days.... Plus, the water leaving UV went right back to the sump to be picked right back up and recycled into the return lines again and possibly right back into the UV... I figured up and over the back would be more efficient. I'm planning on adding FMK Flow monitoring kit on the UV soon. Tired of filling up buckets and doing math. Lol

 

[JoshH]

Doesn't necessarily have to be this part exactly. Just something that can accomplish the same purpose. Water being diverted to a bypass route, close off valves so both routes will close right at the main point of entry (not let water go a few inches in and then a shut off), and unions to separate the UV out of the line.

ANY pieces that can accomplish that. I showed the exact valve that would work perfectly, but if there's a way to assemble something to accomplish the same things, I'm open to it. Or else I gotta figure something else out because I'm not spending $400 on 4 valves, lol.

I'm just not accustomed to plumbing fittings and such, so I don't know what to look for.

The problem is what you have found really is the only thing to get exactly what you want out of it. Everything else will add pipe length to the UV in the neighbourhood of 5-6 Inches or longer and will require all the fittings you spoke of earlier. The only other thing to do is as mentioned above, plumb with a manifold. Unfortunately you have very specific desires that require something not commonly manufactured. And while it seems expensive, in reality your getting 1 valve that does 2 valves jobs, cost of 2 quality true union valves... about the same as this one.

I gotta figure something else out because I'm not spending $400 on 4 valves, lol.

And I'm not sure I'm following you on this specifically? IF you went with the 3 way valve, you only need 2 of them... so $200...

 

[Forsaken77]

The problem is what you have found really is the only thing to get exactly what you want out of it. Everything else will add pipe length to the UV in the neighbourhood of 5-6 Inches or longer and will require all the fittings you spoke of earlier. The only other thing to do is as mentioned above, plumb with a manifold. Unfortunately you have very specific desires that require something not commonly manufactured. And while it seems expensive, in reality your getting 1 valve that does 2 valves jobs, cost of 2 quality true union valves... about the same as this one.



And I'm not sure I'm following you on this specifically? IF you went with the 3 way valve, you only need 2 of them... so $200...

There are two 25 watt UV's. So I would need one in front of each one and one after each one.

Is Hayward a quality brand? Because the Spears version of this part is around $200 per valve.

 

[Forsaken77]

If you have the room just run them off a manifold. I have mine off my manifold and the water that exits the UV is piped back to the top of the tank and into its own loc-line. Whenever I first had my UV installed it was under my tank attached to the bottom of my stand above the sump. It was out of the way but a pain to get to... Plus, it was horizontal and allowed air to get trapped in it. I tried dropping the inlet end/ raising the outlet end so the air could escape but it still would catch air inside the chamber. Almost half of the chamber would have air in it after a few days.... Plus, the water leaving UV went right back to the sump to be picked right back up and recycled into the return lines again and possibly right back into the UV... I figured up and over the back would be more efficient. I'm planning on adding FMK Flow monitoring kit on the UV soon. Tired of filling up buckets and doing math. Lol

That's a Pentair UV right? I looked into those. They were too big (long) for me and required very slow throughput, which is probably why there's air. To be completely effective I wanted ALL of the return water back to the tank going through the UV. Don't know if you're aware, but regular white PVC can degrade from the UV light. Once the pipe starts to turn brown it will get brittle and could break. Should be furniture grade PVC or PVC meant for UV light. All colored vinyl is also UV resistant. Just an fyi incase.

So I found a high output, 25 watt, 20" long UV. I got 2 to have complete level 1 sterilization on all of the return water and am using 2 return pumps.

It's a brand used primarily in Europe, TMC. The maintenance company that sells and uses them in the US shares all of their real world results. According to their findings, the High Output light can handle up to 700 gph for level 1. So being I have dual overflows that are 1" I'm using two and would probably have roughly 600 gph going through each of them, which is what the overflows can handle. Plus I would need 2 to accomplish the proper turnover rate for a 180.

The UV's actually come with union attachments, and a clear 90° fitting for the output to change water direction from up, to the side, but only work with the included step down barb fittings, not pvc.

If I used vinyl I could get away with it, but would have to shut the whole system down without a bypass. And I don't even know if they make a 3-way valve with two 1" slip sides and a 1.25" barb side. Probably to obscure.

I was planning on building an H-frame over the sump out of carbon decking.

 

[SFKINNC]

Hayward is a brand name supplier of valves, filters, and pumps for swimming pools. I’ve used Hayward products for my pool and have had no complaints.

 

[Forsaken77]

Hayward is a brand name supplier of valves, filters, and pumps for swimming pools. I’ve used Hayward products for my pool and have had no complaints.

Hayward is a brand name supplier of valves, filters, and pumps for swimming pools. I’ve used Hayward products for my pool and have had no complaints.

Yea, I just wanted to make sure their 3-way valves will hold up to saltwater. They make a lot of valves with steel screws that are cheaper, but I don't want to deal with them rusting. The true union 3-way says it uses a non-silicone based lubricant. They don't say what it is though.

I only ask because the Spears version of the same valve is double the price. I don't want to get this if it'll decay or fall apart.

 

[CindyKz]

This would be the easiest way to do it you would need 2 T fittings 3 ball valves or gate valves whichever you prefer and Where ever you would like to add

Resurrecting an old thread as I am plumbing my uv sterilizer on a bypass tomorrow. What is the purpose of the ball valve on the straight pipe section?

Tia.

 

[kyleinpdx]

Resurrecting an old thread as I am plumbing my uv sterilizer on a bypass tomorrow. What is the purpose of the ball valve on the straight pipe section?

Tia.

You close it to force the water through the uv, otherwise you are only treating at most half the flow, but path of least resistance and all you may be treating much less.

 

[CindyKz]

You close it to force the water through the uv, otherwise you are only treating at most half the flow, but path of least resistance and all you may be treating much less.

Thank you. That's what I suspected.

 

[Forsaken77]

Thank you. That's what I suspected.

I was plumbing the bypass for maintenance purposes, so the tank can run on a diverted line while the UV is swapped out to change a bulb or whatever. But the UV would be the main line and the bypass would be the secondary.

 

[Drewbacca]

Exactly what I'm doing right now as well. Also, it's in the middle, which traps some water, but saves you from having to have one at top and bottom. 2 3way valves at top & bottom is ideal as mentioned earlier, but you save 50$ bucks with 3 ball valves @$50 vs. 2 3ways @$100. The one valve in the middle is the way pentair shows it plumbed on their maintenance video.
Whatever anyone does.. pay for the good ones with unions built in and DO NOT use the sched 40 white valves at hardware stores.
Which leads to my question/confirmation. ..
Since they have unions on both sides, you can just close the valve and disassemble on the closed side Union... correct? You dont Need Another Union..right?
Also, how has everyone dealt with the issue of draining the UV? I have a check valve after my pump so unless I plumb in a T with a valve and maybe a hose barb... my only other option would be to unscrew the top union of my check valve & let it all rush down over and into the sump.
I saw 'redfin ain't easy' on youtube got the smallest pool uv from pentair which has a drain valve built in AND a T section of plumbing on the top( output) with a float switch in the T (which faces up). This tells the light to turn off if it goes down from lack of water flow. I thought that was brilliant and thought for sure would be great idea to diy or a manufacturer like neptune or neat aquatics rig an optical or float switch assembly in a bushing or cap for the same pupose.
Or even the same company that makes the smart outlet that turns my skimmer off when the external overflow container gets full. Because myself and many others have uv on a separate outlet than apex to avoid to much power draw.