How to prevent pest from getting in tank.

JRhymer349

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Hello I’m new and one of the questions I have is, how do I prevent pests from getting in my tank? I know if I use dry rock it can prevent pests but are there other things that contribute to pests in your tank? Thanks.
 
Welcome to R2R!!!

Great Place, Great People, and TONS of Great Info!!! :) :) :)

Depending on what you consider pests, there are several things you can do.
For corals you can dip them, in things like Bayer and Coral RX.

For parasites there are several things you have to do to maintain a disease free tank.
It starts with proper quarantine of your fish and fallow periods for your corals and inverts making sure they are clean when introduced to your display tank.

Below are some great reads. Let me know if you have any questions.

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.382/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fallow-periods-going-fishless.190324/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dos-and-don’ts-of-quarantine.203898/
 
Don't buy live rock and dip your frags. I recently discovered that I have a flatworm that eats clam. I got one out, I wonder if there is more.
48d1d2990900c68d46bf0055d787c1cf.jpg
 
Don't buy live rock and dip your frags. I recently discovered that I have a flatworm that eats clam. I got one out, I wonder if there is more.
48d1d2990900c68d46bf0055d787c1cf.jpg
Thank you for the advice. Much appreciated!
 
Welcome to R2R!!!

Great Place, Great People, and TONS of Great Info!!! :) :) :)

Depending on what you consider pests, there are several things you can do.
For corals you can dip them, in things like Bayer and Coral RX.

For parasites there are several things you have to do to maintain a disease free tank.
It starts with proper quarantine of your fish and fallow periods for your corals and inverts making sure they are clean when introduced to your display tank.

Below are some great reads. Let me know if you have any questions.

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/coral-invert-quarantine-time-frames.382/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fallow-periods-going-fishless.190324/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-to-quarantine.189815/

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-dos-and-don’ts-of-quarantine.203898/
Thank you for the advice I’ll definitely be reading the articles
 
Lol alright when are you coming by?
 
Hello I’m new and one of the questions I have is, how do I prevent pests from getting in my tank? I know if I use dry rock it can prevent pests but are there other things that contribute to pests in your tank? Thanks.
First step is to define what pests are. If you have fish then diseases that will kill your fish are a pest and QT and treatment will prevent them. If you do get some of them, healthy fish can fight them off. Just as you fight off the flu and might not catch it, even though you were exposed. Most coral pests can be avoided thru dipping and being selective as to where you get your coral. Algae, cyano, aptasia can be a nuisance and you might call them pests. These are hard to avoid and are easy to control thru natural means.
Dry rock and live rock both have their pros and cons. Don't be afraid to use either one or both.
 
Trying not to get any what you consider pest into your display tank can be a challenge on it own. To really minimize (and I do say minimize because you cannot be 100% certain) is to have systems(s) setup for any new additions. For coral, you will need to dip them as others have mentioned, but no dip on this planet will deal with anything that lays eggs, so you will have to dip then closely monitor the coral for anything (and you are likely to miss some stuff because of how small it may be - so you would need to invest into some magnification if you are serious about it).

For fish you will need both a QT and a hospital tank. QT for monitoring for disease and hospital for treating any identified disease. You can do it with a single system, but if you have a system that suppresses disease and you add the fish to your tank, you have no idea whether that disease has been cured.

This portion of the hobby will make you think twice about the hobby because once you have invested thousands of dollars into fish/coral, all it takes is 1 slip and you can completely destroy your system with certain parasites. Buying from a trusted source is key. Do not just purchase something from someone because it is a deal. This also relates to your LFS as well. As the person you are buying from what is their protocol for fish/coral and still QT/treat it yourself as well.

Even then, you cannot be 100% certain that your tank will not have any parasites, but the process is better than having no process.
 
Already everyone here has given you enough of insight into what you should do and not do.
I would like to add that I’m also fairly new to the reefing and our REEF2REEF community helped me a lot in understanding the oceanic life.

I try to qt everything that’s wet, that’s my theory, qt’ing fishes is a must but I would further add that you should qt corals also, because
1. You would easily be able to fight of corals eating pests that way and avoid them 95% from getting into your dt.
2. Corals can host eggs of fish eating parasites, the most common one ICHS, so if your lfs tank has ich in his system the theront can go and lay eggs(tomonts) on the coral surface, and hence it can enter your dt. Many people don’t qt corals but those who do would suggest you to qt corals for 76 days, but I wouldn’t second that, In fact i myself am currently qt’ing 3 Corals, and I would do that for anywhere between 15-30 days and in all honestly mostly I’ll put them in dt by 15th day. But I qt them in around 28-29 degree Celsius, as it has been seen lower the temperature the more time the tomont takes to excyst. Also if you’ll read the research notes from 1993-2003 ones there has been clearly written that it can be seen that tomites in tomont ex-cyst by detecting urea from fishes near them, so what I do is just vacuum some fish poop out of the dt and put that in coral dt just a little bit, and till now I’ve not had a single case of ich in my dt.

Also mostly people don’t qt their corals because of high cost of running a coral tank separately but trust me I was myself on a tight budget and you don’t need a lot of money to run one coral qt.
1. Get a small tank I’ve a 18 gallon

2. Get a diy lighting fixture I’ve a 50w lighting over my tank and it’s pretty simple, just got 6(5w each) blues 4(5w each) whites and your good to go.

3. One HOB filter, if you want you can add extra half fist of carbon in it, if you are qt’ing a lot of corals together and SPS and lps together.

4. 2 power heads I’ve jebao 200m. Anything bigger than this brings a storm in water in my tank at least.

5. People use calcium reactors, but i don’t think you need one, specially in a tank in which your corals will stay only for 15 days, so I got these sea shells (will cost you peanuts) from lfs and IME they leech out calcium. Since its small tank water change is a breeze and you’ll enjoy it, do weekly very little around 5 litres. That’s it the corals do get nutrients from water change also.

6. I’ve a bottle of reef trace and reef plus. Which I dose bi weekly I capful.

Everyone qt’s fish but IMO corals needs qt too, better safe than sorry. But after everything you do you can never be 100% sure, that pests wont enter your tank. Just make sure after you drip acclimate you never let lfs’s water in your system.
Best of luck, happy reefing[emoji3]
 
Dip your coral, start with your own cured and cycled dry rock, and qt all fish and coral for 6ish weeks.
 

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