How to quarantine on a new tank?

[Brew12]

I have found so many answers to my questions on here but this is the one I am struggling with.

In a few weeks I hope to have my DT filled and start cycling it. My understanding is that it should be ready for fish about 2-4 weeks later.
Quarantine on a new fish should take around 4 weeks so I should buy the fish and get them in my QT around the same time I start cycling.
Inverts for my clean up crew should be in a QT for 76 days to ensure they don't transfer ich. It sounds like I should be ready to put them in the tank when it is done with it's first cycle to help control algae growth. That means I need to get at least a small crew going now. Should I be getting a 3rd tank to use to quarantine the CuC since they can't share a copper treatment with the fish in the other QT?

How is this typically done when people set up a new tank and want tight quarantine procedures in place?

 

[Ocelaris]

I ran my display tank for 3 months and then got fish which were quarantined for a month. I did prazi in between tank transfer method swaps, and 2 formalin baths mostly for the clowns for Brooklynela (sp?) Copper is hard on fish, if you're just blanket quarantining them look at those three instead of copper. That was my method, probably not as long as reccomended, but they never seemed to have any issues. However after the first formalin bath they all started eating voraciously, so I'll be sure to do that in the future. I only had 2 ocellaris clowns and I yellow tang, nothing too tricky. Food was just pellets, some mysis and nori for the tang.

 

[Brew12]

I ran my display tank for 3 months and then got fish which were quarantined for a month. I did prazi in between tank transfer method swaps, and 2 formalin baths mostly for the clowns for Brooklynela (sp?) Copper is hard on fish, if you're just blanket quarantining them look at those three instead of copper. That was my method, probably not as long as reccomended, but they never seemed to have any issues. However after the first formalin bath they all started eating voraciously, so I'll be sure to do that in the future. I only had 2 ocellaris clowns and I yellow tang, nothing too tricky. Food was just pellets, some mysis and nori for the tang.

Thanks Ocelaris. I agree that the tank transfer method should be easier on the fish. I just worry about my ability to maintain stable water quality in one tank, let alone two that are constantly being changed. Copper may be worse for their long term health but it may be better for their short term health.

 

[Brew12]

Any other thoughts on this?

 

[Ocelaris]

Thanks Ocelaris. I agree that the tank transfer method should be easier on the fish. I just worry about my ability to maintain stable water quality in one tank, let alone two that are constantly being changed. Copper may be worse for their long term health but it may be better for their short term health.

Actual it's the other way around, I think as long as they don't die immediately from the copper it's safe for them long term, but I just read a post on someone killing their fish with copper which made me glad I didn't do copper, so I'm hesitant to recommended any copper. Be sure to test daily for copper with a good kit and do not use any ammonia neutralizer as it can interact with the copper and become deadly.

It's easy to keep 2 tanks stable, just buy 4 sponge filters and leave them in your sump for a week ahead of time. Set one up a day ahead with an air pump. Water changes pretty much take care of the rest. Swap the fish every 3 days for the ttm.

 

[Brew12]

Actual it's the other way around, I think as long as they don't die immediately from the copper it's safe for them long term, but I just read a post on someone killing their fish with copper which made me glad I didn't do copper, so I'm hesitant to recommended any copper. Be sure to test daily for copper with a good kit and do not use any ammonia neutralizer as it can interact with the copper and become deadly.

It's easy to keep 2 tanks stable, just buy 4 sponge filters and leave them in your sump for a week ahead of time. Set one up a day ahead with an air pump. Water changes pretty much take care of the rest. Swap the fish every 3 days for the ttm.

I wish I had a degree in reefology. Every time I think I know almost enough to get started I begin to realize how much I don't know.

 

[Ocelaris]

There are a lot of good videos and other threads, so you may not get a huge response.

What I would reccomend is look at the methods that other people have used for the fish specifically to quarantine. For example I got formailin for the clown fish as that's the common fix for Brook. Wrasses need sand and good food for their quarantine, mandarins need live copepods. Some tolerate copper well, but just search for your fish and quarantine and others will have examples of what they did.

 

[Brew12]

There are a lot of good videos and other threads, so you may not get a huge response.

What I would reccomend is look at the methods that other people have used for the fish specifically to quarantine. For example I got formailin for the clown fish as that's the common fix for Brook. Wrasses need sand and good food for their quarantine, mandarins need live copepods. Some tolerate copper well, but just search for your fish and quarantine and others will have examples of what they did.

I've been doing that and have learned a ton. The one thing that people don't seem to cover is doing it for a brand new tank. Especially how to quarantine the first CuC.
I want to be extra careful on what I put in this tank to minimize future problems. The only LFS within 30 miles of me is a Petco. Looking at their stock has made me feel like I need to pre-quarantine them before I even put them in my QT!

 

[greenhorn reefer]

I am fairly new too but was going to do a similar set up as you. I started with a redsea max e260, set it up and began my cycle. I also started a qt tank cycle. As the DT tank progressed, I added CUC and some other coral and inverts. I am running a prophylactic qt right now with a very "Broken" coral angel ( not my plan but I wanted to save her from a Petco) I use copper (seachem) and will treat with prazi but right now I am treating her intestinal worms with metroplex. I plan to run my DT fallow for 76 days, from the last addition of an invert. Hopefully, when all said and done, I can add her in November. Be patient though, your tank will go through some serious changes long after four weeks. I am at about two months and now have cyno algae and flatworms, who hitchhiked from the coral I added. Parameters swing and you will be finding out more about your tank everyday. Enjoy the show. Other pluses with a qt is that, for first time fish owners, you can gauge exactly how much food is req and what is over feeding. Just enjoy the little things and go slow and it will be a lot of fun!

 

[Brew12]

I plan to run my DT fallow for 76 days, from the last addition of an invert.

Thanks, really appreciate the input.

I think you have the right idea. I can't see any way to effectively QT my first CuC. At least not for any length of time. Especially since I am going with dry rock, not live rock. That means adding my pods along with the pod water. Looks like I will let it cycle for a few weeks, add a CuC and pods, then wait 76 days. Probably get my first fish 40 days after the last invert is added so they are ready to leave the QT when the DT is ready.

Was hoping for a better option but just not finding it.

 

[greenhorn reefer]

Thanks, really appreciate the input.

I think you have the right idea. I can't see any way to effectively QT my first CuC. At least not for any length of time. Especially since I am going with dry rock, not live rock. That means adding my pods along with the pod water. Looks like I will let it cycle for a few weeks, add a CuC and pods, then wait 76 days. Probably get my first fish 40 days after the last invert is added so they are ready to leave the QT when the DT is ready.

Was hoping for a better option but just not finding it.

Trufully, I think it's only possible to mitigate hitchhikers and disease. Eggs, unknown bacteria, and all sorts of hard to see nuisances are going to pop up. I am beginning to think that animal husbandry is going to yield the best results.

 

[Joey waid]

I guess my belief is on a new tank is if you buy local and seen the fish for weeks and know they are fine, I would do it for the first time.

 

[rayn]

Three tanks isn't enough for the route you are taking.

Tight QT parameters mean one species per tank no matter what. You could do a pair of something, but not multiple species. Another tank for inverts and another tank for corals.

It can be done, but takes some work.

Honestly you could wait on fish. Cycle the tank. Add cuc. Let it go through its process of what it does. This is the time you can QT fish. Once the days for tomonts has passed and your fish are healthy you can add them. Also if you wanted to add corals at the time of cuc you can as anything coming in the tank will also be out by fish adding time.