How to Quarantine

VJV · Dec 6, 2016

immafishguy said:
out of curiosity, if there was a coral dip that could potentially kill off ich tomonts, what would you use? I recently acquired a monstrous frogspawn colony and its way to big to put into my coral quarantine. Currently its in my second tank that already has ich because I was paranoid about infecting my large display with 7 acanthurus haha. but it takes up over half of my smaller tank so i'd like to move it to my larger tank.

Bayer? coral Rx? Revive? iodine?

Hi, as Mely said, no coral dip will get you rid of the Tomonts. Hydrogen Peroxide is great (I dip all my frags in it before going to the tank) but it will mostly kill algae and unwanted (as well as wanted) hitchickers. All bristleworms, crabs, copepods will drop right off.

But it will not kill Tomonts. Also do NOT dip in full strength Peroxide. You will need to dilute it. Justin Creadabel is the leading authority on H2O2 and if you are interested I can post a couple of slides with the correct concentrations for the different types of corals.

You can usually go higher than what he suggests as these are safety guidelines, but prob a best idea is to start here. I have sprayed zoas out of the water with straight Peroxide with no ill effects.

VJV · Dec 6, 2016

On another subject, I finally got my hands on this [emoji847][emoji847][emoji847]

However, the dosage recommendation is pretty vague: dose 5ml per 4 gallons... that is it! No indication on what concentration level it equates to nor ramp up recommendations. A couple of questions:

1- do you know what concentration would this equate to?
2- is 2ppm the correct therapeutic level for Coppersafe?
3- what would be your recommended test kit for Coppersafe.

Many thanks!

melypr1985 · Dec 6, 2016

VJV said:
1- do you know what concentration would this equate to?
2- is 2ppm the correct therapeutic level for Coppersafe?
3- what would be your recommended test kit for Coppersafe.

1. I can't remember, but it should get you close. I would total that up and figure out how many ml you'll end up with for your QT. Then divide that by 4 and dose that number four days in a row, testing every day to be sure you are on track.
2. Yes that's correct
3. API is what you need for coppersafe.

VJV · Dec 6, 2016

Thanks

Brew12 · Dec 6, 2016

VJV said:
On another subject, I finally got my hands on this [emoji847][emoji847][emoji847]

However, the dosage recommendation is pretty vague: dose 5ml per 4 gallons... that is it! No indication on what concentration level it equates to nor ramp up recommendations. A couple of questions:

1- do you know what concentration would this equate to?
2- is 2ppm the correct therapeutic level for Coppersafe?
3- what would be your recommended test kit for Coppersafe.

Many thanks!

I believe it works out to around 0.3 ppm at the recommended dose. Hard to tell since it is at the low range of the copper test kit. The recommended dose seems to be based on using it continuously in a system, not for achieving a therapeutic level in your system. You will find that you need to add much more than recommended to achieve 2ppm.

mdlc805 · Dec 11, 2016

this will be my first time quarantining fish. i was planning on buying small purple tang 1.5 to 2 inches and a pygmy angel from liveaquaria. i will be doing plan b the ttm. will it be ok to put them in 5 gallon buckets. they are food grade

melypr1985 · Dec 11, 2016

mdlc805 said:
this will be my first time quarantining fish. i was planning on buying small purple tang 1.5 to 2 inches and a pygmy angel from liveaquaria. i will be doing plan b the ttm. will it be ok to put them in 5 gallon buckets. they are food grade

5 gallon buckets can work just fine for TTM. It does limit what you can see as far as their health and what condition they are in during the procedure, but it can be done. You need to take extra time to watch the fish and be sure that ammonia isn't becoming a problem.

Humblefish · Dec 11, 2016

@mdlc805 While 5 gallon buckets may be fine, I'd feel a lot more comfortable if you used a pair of 10 gal tanks for that bio-load. Petco may still be running their $ per gallon sale. In addition to giving you more wiggle room when it comes to ammonia (tangs are pooping machines), an all glass aquarium affords you a 360 degree view of the fish to monitor breathing and look for dots/splotches on the fish.

Willy315 · Dec 11, 2016

Got this fish Yesterday. He was eating fine at the store and also ate when

I got him home. Then today he is barely swimming and has that red thing coming out of him. I know it's too late to save but was curious as to what happened to him.

Thanks

Brew12 · Dec 11, 2016

Willy315 said:
Got this fish Yesterday. He was eating fine at the store and also ate when

I got him home. Then today he is barely swimming and has that red thing coming out of him. I know it's too late to save but was curious as to what happened to him.

Thanks

How did you acclimate him?

Willy315 · Dec 11, 2016

Brew12 said:
How did you acclimate him?

Added 1/4 cup water to his bag. Let it set for 10-15 minutes then repeated. Checked salinity and put him in QT tank

Humblefish · Dec 11, 2016

Can you post a closeup photo of the "red thing"? Might be a gram negative bacterial disease (very bad).

Willy315 · Dec 11, 2016

Humblefish said:
Can you post a closeup photo of the "red thing"? Might be a gram negative bacterial disease (very bad).

Humblefish · Dec 11, 2016

@Willy315 Looks like that could be a rectal prolapse. @Lionfish Lair probably knows more about this than I do.

In the meantime, read this: https://en.wikivet.net/Vent_Prolapse_-_Fish