Once I treat a fish in QT prophylactically with Prazipro and Coppersafe and then remove meds with Poly Filter at the end of treatment, do I need to use a new sponge (seeded) and bio media (seeded Matrix) for the next quarantined fish, shortly therafter? Or can I just use the same media and treat the next fish with same treatment regimen?
How to Quarantine
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Brew12
Electrical Gru
You should be able to safely reuse them at least one more time. The issue with doing this too much is that tanks will build up a biofilm which can break down the Prazipro. It isn't a problem at all with the copper treatment. If you do reuse the tank/sponge for the next group I would clean/toss everything really well prior to using it again after that.
Brew12
Electrical Gru
Yup, that would be my recommendation.
As an aside to others who may be reading this.... Prazipro is reef safe, for the most part. However, because of this biofilm, the odds of Prazipro working drop every time you try using it in your DT. Treat in your DT if you have to, but it is almost always better to use Prazi in a QT if possible.
All my fishes are doing great, one thing I’m undecided is if I had Brooklynella instead of velvet. I treat all fish with cupramine and I think copper does not kill brook, but rather mask the disease.
The affected fish had white multiple spots like velvet/ich and the affected clownfish looked like he had excess slime coat.
At the moment they are all in cupramine and no signs of any parasites, apart from CP which I can’t get hold of that I can trust, what else can I use to treat for Brooklynella?
The affected fish had white multiple spots like velvet/ich and the affected clownfish looked like he had excess slime coat.
At the moment they are all in cupramine and no signs of any parasites, apart from CP which I can’t get hold of that I can trust, what else can I use to treat for Brooklynella?
I have some sand for my diamond goby and wrasse in qt and the diamond goby is causing a sand storm in the small tank, I added an air stone for additional oxygen and some filter wool to take out the fine particles.
If he keeps causing a storm will this have any affect on the fish?
If he keeps causing a storm will this have any affect on the fish?
deedubz
nuttier than a squirrel turd
I actually had to transfer a diamond goby, amongst others, from a qt with rock/sand to a BB qt to treat with copper. How much sand are you talking? A little Tupperware, or a sand bed? If it's a bed it could cause an issue if you needed to medicate. A lot of the meds can cause bacterial blooms and I'd hate to also have fine particles floating around during a bloom
It’s just a little Tupperware box, never had an issue with cupramine being absorbed by the sand. Always measured 0.5. The tank gets quite cloudy in the evening though. Hopefully the floss improves it.
ViciousDlishus
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I have a seperate qt for fish and coral (more than 10 ft apart to prevent aerosol transmission). I understand that having a fish less qt the clock doesn't reset on the 76 day qt period.
When transferring from coral qt to display does there have to be a period of time between the last addition to the coral qt to avoid any potential contamination. Or does the acclimation and (for lack of a better term) rinse avoid any cause for concern or am I misunderstanding the theory.
When transferring from coral qt to display does there have to be a period of time between the last addition to the coral qt to avoid any potential contamination. Or does the acclimation and (for lack of a better term) rinse avoid any cause for concern or am I misunderstanding the theory.
TheEngineer
Formerly icecool2
That’s my understanding. Each coral is subject to the 76 days but it doesn’t reset when a new coral is added. You’re just waiting for the tomonts to hatch. They’ll die quickly without a host.
Humblefish
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Ideally, all corals/inverts go in & come out of QT together after 76 days. You QT everything in batches.
However, if you add a new coral/invert then the "76 day coral/invert" can still go into the DT. Provided you pour DT water over it (and into a bucket to be discarded) before placing it in your DT. This "washes away" any free swimmers which inadvertently might be on it.
Pickleowl
Community Member
When a fish has ich (for example), the trophonts (feeding stage) drop off after 3-7 days. The parasite will then encyst and form tomonts, but it takes anywhere from 3-72 days for theronts (free swimming stage) to be released from the cysts. Theronts are the only stage which can reliably be eradicated using copper, hypo, etc. But if you stop & do the math, you would need to keep a fish in copper for a lot longer than 30 days to account for all strains of ich. However, most fish I've treated can only tolerate being in copper for 30 days max. Fortunately, 30 days is usually long enough as the 72 day variant is pretty rare; most strains finish their entire lifecycle in 30 days or less.But you should always observe (for at least 2 weeks) post treatment just to be sure 30 days was indeed long enough.
Hopefully that all makes sense.
So sorry if this has been answered but I'm still on page 44 of this thread and haven't seen it yet.. and I'm still trying to wrap my head around all this stuff that comes easier to you smarter folk..
In regards to ich and the cycles,, after feeding for 3-7 days the trophont falls off the fish to encyst for 3-72 days as tomonts, after this the cyst bursts forth free swimming theronts and this is the only stage, as theronts, that they can be killed by copper or CP..
Is there an answer to why the trophont is not killed when falling off the fish before it encysts itself? Is it protected by something at that point to not be murdered by the levels of copper or CP?
Pickleowl
Community Member
Well, nevermind,, I think I may have just answered my own question,, duh..
If copper/CP can't kill trophont while on fish then it won't kill when it releases,, sorry for stupid question..
If copper/CP can't kill trophont while on fish then it won't kill when it releases,, sorry for stupid question..
Humblefish
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There are no stupid questions!
It’s best to ask to be sure of something. I’m glad you were able to figure it out.JoshKReef
Well-Known Member
Interesting.
I did a batch through QT. 2 Rounds of Prazi and then copper, ran polyfilter and carbon to get the copper out and then introduced a new batch of fish. Will the prazi treatments I am doing now be effective? I planned on breaking it down and sterilizing, but I didn't have time before the next batch.
alpenreefer
Community Member
Humblefish, glad you said that...There are no stupid questions!
because I have a few. I just lost several fish to what appeared to be Ich,Velvet or Brook. Not really sure as it happened very, very fast. Lost some great fish buddies and trying to save a few "survivors" who I've been giving dips/baths while reading as much as I can on TTM and getting set up. As of this afternoon, I now have QT#1 clean, sterilized, dry for 24+ hours, set up with SG, temp and air. All good to go, but QT#1 water is "slightly" cloudy (RODI + RS Pro salt @ 1.025). Is the slight cloudiness normal and something I just wouldn't notice in the DT due to filtration and movement? Also, I completely understand the 72 hour max/12 day min TTM process with 2-4 week observation following TT#5. I'm using two new (cleaned, sterilized, dry) tanks for QT TTM, so my next question is: Following TT#5 and beginning the 2-4 week observation period, do I start filtration (plan to use HOB) or continue with aggressive water changes or ? I don't remember reading how to go about setting up this phase (possibly due to trying to absorb as much information as possible way too late into the night). My post TTM observation period will be quite long, as I plan on keeping the DT fallow for the 76(?) day period (shrimp, crabs, CUC, SPS, LPS, etc.). Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really need to get "survivors" started with TTM immediately, but want to make sure I'm set up correctly. Thanks for your help.JoshKReef
Well-Known Member
Humblefish, glad you said that...
TTM is only good for ich as far as I know. For velvet you have to change water much more frequently then ich. I'd recommend diagnosing what you have, and if it is ich for sure, then you can do TTM. But you likely had velvet, which requires meds, not just transfers.
deedubz
nuttier than a squirrel turd
I just went through exactly the same thing. I got something from some inverts and all heck broke loose.
I started with ttm/hypo for prazipro resistant flukes and what I thought was ich. After completion, I got a whole 3 days into observation before things started going downhill. Ultimately I had to setup two 29g qts to split up my fish and treat with copper. I ended up losing a couple more fish because I was thinking ich vs velvet. Given you said the deaths were sudden, and without a pic to help diagnose, I'd lean more towards velvet. I think your best bet may be copper. Copper will eradicate both ich and velvet, though it won't do anything for brook. Ttm only does ich.
Do you have any pics?
I started with ttm/hypo for prazipro resistant flukes and what I thought was ich. After completion, I got a whole 3 days into observation before things started going downhill. Ultimately I had to setup two 29g qts to split up my fish and treat with copper. I ended up losing a couple more fish because I was thinking ich vs velvet. Given you said the deaths were sudden, and without a pic to help diagnose, I'd lean more towards velvet. I think your best bet may be copper. Copper will eradicate both ich and velvet, though it won't do anything for brook. Ttm only does ich.
Do you have any pics?
deedubz
nuttier than a squirrel turd
Also, you'll need to be on the lookout for bacterial infections. You may want to pickup(if you don't already have) kanaplex, metroplex(which actually will also treat brook), and furan 2.
Again, pics will help us help you better if you can get some
Again, pics will help us help you better if you can get some
alpenreefer
Community Member
