How to Quarantine

Teufel72 · Dec 11, 2018

Teufel72 said:
After you ran Chloroquine and the fishs are ready for transfer, do you run activated carbon again? Do you need to replace the sponge or other Bacteria media? Or just carbon and met the qt run?

No one on that?

drstardust · Dec 11, 2018

HotRocks said:
40b is minimum I'd use on a fish that large. A 55 would be ideal.

A 20 could work in an emergency situation but that would be stressful on an 8" fish.

Indeed. I find a 40B to really be a perfect QT size.

Squeaky McMurdo · Dec 12, 2018

HotRocks said:
40b is minimum I'd use on a fish that large. A 55 would be ideal.

A 20 could work in an emergency situation but that would be stressful on an 8" fish.

I still have my old 60 and a 50 which are taller versions of the two you mentioned. I guess I’ll hold onto one of them a bit longer...though the footprint of the 50 makes it seem bigger than the skinny 60.
I was told he’s 6-8”

Here’s one of the pictures, he doesn’t seem that big compared to the chromis imo. But he’s free, not going to be choosy since I’m 0/2 on foxfaces from LA and a lfs I visited over Thanksgiving. The LA one arrived so stressed it was completely white and the lfs one was in too small a bag. Both didn’t live long after arriving home. Planning on taking a cooler converted into a live well to go get him.

Philipgonzales3 · Dec 15, 2018

Would option A be OK for a small (~1 inch) gladiator clownfish? My DT is still cycling and trying to decide on what type of QT I am going to go with. QT tank will either be a 20 gallon Long or a Fluval flex 15 gallon. Haven't decided yet.

Mycoolhamm · Dec 31, 2018

How big of a tank would you guys recommend for to juvenile clowns, 1 yellow tang and 1 sailfin tang?

HotRocks · Dec 31, 2018

Mycoolhamm said:
How big of a tank would you guys recommend for to juvenile clowns, 1 yellow tang and 1 sailfin tang?

That would depend on the size of the two tangs.

If they are small, under 2" than a 20L would probably work. If they are larger then I would use a 40b.

Philipgonzales3 · Dec 31, 2018

Mycoolhamm said:
How big of a tank would you guys recommend for to juvenile clowns, 1 yellow tang and 1 sailfin tang?

180 gallons minimum.

Edit: oh I thought you meant for the display tank.

Just based on liveaquaria's recommendation, but now I see that's probably not what you were asking.

https://m.liveaquaria.com/product/379/?pcatid=379

Mycoolhamm · Dec 31, 2018

Philipgonzales3 said:
180 gallons minimum.

Edit: oh I thought you meant for the display tank.

Just based on liveaquaria's recommendation, but now I see that's probably not what you were asking.

https://m.liveaquaria.com/product/379/?pcatid=379

Yes strictly talking QT.

wadesims2000 · Dec 31, 2018

ok maybe a noob question but what specific products do people recommend for copper? CopperSafe appears to be out of stock in most places

PookieGV · Dec 31, 2018

wadesims2000 said:
ok maybe a noob question but what specific products do people recommend for copper? CopperSafe appears to be out of stock in most places

Copper power

HotRocks · Dec 31, 2018

wadesims2000 said:
ok maybe a noob question but what specific products do people recommend for copper? CopperSafe appears to be out of stock in most places

Copper power seems to be the ticket.

I would also recommend using a Hanna high range checker to monitor your level.

ReefWithCare · Dec 31, 2018

Hi all,

How often do you change water in your QTs? I used to change it every week religiously 20% but I feel that I have been burning a lot of unnecessary water.

I’ve stretched out my current QT with 4 small fish in a 29G qt. Free ammonia appears to be at zero per the ammonia badge and and my nitrates are still pretty low (less than 20). It’s been 3 weeks now without a water change and it’s making me nervous.

I did throw in mature media from my sump when I set it up and copper copper has been running at 1.83 PPM right now.

HotRocks · Dec 31, 2018

ReefWithCare said:
Hi all,

How often do you change water in your QTs? I used to change it every week religiously 20% but I feel that I have been burning a lot of unnecessary water.

I’ve stretched out my current QT with 4 small fish in a 29G qt. Free ammonia appears to be at zero per the ammonia badge and and my nitrates are still pretty low (less than 20). It’s been 3 weeks now without a water change and it’s making me nervous.

I did throw in mature media from my sump when I set it up and copper has been running at 1.83 PPM right now.

If I'm not using meds that require WCs I usually only do changes between batches. It really just depends on your bioload and water quality IMO.

ReefWithCare · Dec 31, 2018

HotRocks said:
If I'm not using meds that require WCs I usually only do changes between batches. It really just depends on your bioload and water quality IMO.

Between batches —- so if I’m using copper power you would sometimes go the full 30 days with no WCs?!?

I’m testing water every week and checking my ammonia badge every day. From what I see the levels seem okay ‍

HotRocks · Dec 31, 2018

ReefWithCare said:
Between batches —- so if I’m using copper power you would sometimes go the full 30 days with no WCs?!?

I’m testing water every week and checking my ammonia badge every day. From what I see the levels seem okay ‍

I generally only keep fish in copper for 14 days. Then move them to a clean sterile tank. If your water quality is good you could potentially go the full 30 days.

VJV · Jan 2, 2019

ReefWithCare said:
Between batches —- so if I’m using copper power you would sometimes go the full 30 days with no WCs?!?

I’m testing water every week and checking my ammonia badge every day. From what I see the levels seem okay ‍[emoji3603]

If you want to be completely safe with Ammonia get a Seneye Reef monitor. It will detect ammonia down to extremely low levels where the Amonia badge is staying yellow, which in my experience and with sensitive fish is still harmful when combined with Cupramine. As a bonus you will also monitor pH, temp and get a handy PAR meter (which you obviously need to sterilize if you want to use in your reef).

And you will get email alerts as well.

Bthomas · Jan 5, 2019

Can I get some advice on quarantining a group of blue green chromis? My usual protocol is 2 rounds of prazi followed by 30 days in copper.
But I've just read that u shouldn't treat chromis with copper because of the uronema threat. Is this true?
Is so how do I ensure my system stays ich free

PeterG · Jan 5, 2019

Bthomas said:
Can I get some advice on quarantining a group of blue green chromis? My usual protocol is 2 rounds of prazi followed by 30 days in copper.
But I've just read that u shouldn't treat chromis with copper because of the uronema threat. Is this true?
Is so how do I ensure my system stays ich free

According to this chart copper is safe for Chromis (listed under "Others" heading): https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-and-treatment-guidelines-with-chart.283450/

HotRocks · Jan 5, 2019

Bthomas said:
Can I get some advice on quarantining a group of blue green chromis? My usual protocol is 2 rounds of prazi followed by 30 days in copper.
But I've just read that u shouldn't treat chromis with copper because of the uronema threat. Is this true?
Is so how do I ensure my system stays ich free

Chromis will tolerate copper or CP. CP would be a safe avenue as I covers uronema. If you go the copper route and you are concerned about Uronema it is probably best to use copper + metronidazole.

Copper and CP are both imunosupressants, so being that copper doesn't cover Uronema adding the metro should be similar to using CP.

Bthomas · Jan 5, 2019

HotRocks said:
Chromis will tolerate copper or CP. CP would be a safe avenue as I covers uronema. If you go the copper route and you are concerned about Uronema it is probably best to use copper + metronidazole.

Copper and CP are both imunosupressants, so being that copper doesn't cover Uronema adding the metro should be similar to using CP.

Thanks. Should I go ahead and treat with metro even if I don't see any signs of uronema