How to Quarantine

Humblefish · Oct 26, 2016

JMM744 said:
Ok, I am trying to find coppersafe and it seems most places do not carry it. None locally. Is there an alternative? I have cuprimine. If needs be I will order it.
Thanks, Jim

Copper Power is chelated copper, basically the same as Coppersafe.

tvu · Oct 26, 2016

Try Amazon. 2 day shipping with prime.

JMM744 · Oct 26, 2016

tvu said:
Try Amazon. 2 day shipping with prime.

Thank you for that suggestion. Got some coming. My best to you, Jim

cmcimino · Oct 31, 2016

Great write up! Just purchased my first fish the other day, and was able to transfer it smoothly into the QT tank. Giving the fish a couple of days to eat, and get use to his surroundings before I start treatments.

TC3 · Oct 31, 2016

I finally got all of my equipment for my quarantine setup. Even though I somehow ended up with three 10g tanks and equipment to do the TTM, I think I will just use the 29g tank and go with the Coppersafe & Parzipro treatment as schedules get a little crazy around this time of the year. I do, however, have more questions (no surprise there, right?

)...

- Is it possible to quarantine a yellow tang and a yellow-eyed kole tang together in a 29g tank? I'm planning to add multiple pieces of the large PVC pipes in to the tank to hopefully reduce the fighting/chasing.
- I bought Seachem Stability to help to establish the quarantine tank. I read that a minimum of 4 weeks without the help of the bottled bacteria but how long do I have to wait with the Seachem Stability? Also, I have brand new bioballs that came with one of the tanks. Can I use them to colonized the bacteria inside the HOB filter?
- Does salinity level matters? I've just made a batch @ 1.025. That's the current level in my DT.

@melypr1985 Meredith, thanks. Good to know as I didn't read up on marine velvet. Will Coppersafe take care of marine velvet?

@VJV thanks for the info. After losing pretty much all of my fish and started reading up on ich, I stopped transferring coral between the 100g and 29g Biocube. Anything wet can be a transport container for these evil things. I probably won't be getting anymore coral until I have a coral-only tank established (good lighting, ATO, random water movements, etc.) when I can keep them there for at least 72 days. And with the experiences I had with SPS (and even Zoas), I don't think I would want to take a chance and place them in a tank like the ones for the fish.

Brew12 · Oct 31, 2016

TC3 said:
I bought Seachem Stability to help to establish the quarantine tank. I read that a minimum of 4 weeks without the help of the bottled bacteria but how long do I have to wait with the Seachem Stability?

I would give Stability a few days if you can. Dr. Tims and Biospira use live active bacteria so are effective a little faster. Stability uses bacteria in a cyst form so it takes a little longer to function properly.

TC3 said:
I have brand new bioballs that came with one of the tanks. Can I use them to colonized the bacteria inside the HOB filter?

Yup, you can use them in your HOB filter. Just don't add them to a DT later.

TC3 said:
Will Coppersafe take care of marine velvet?

I'm not nearly as knowledgeable or nice as Meredith, but yes, it is great for treating Velvet.

melypr1985 · Oct 31, 2016

TC3 said:
Meredith, thanks. Good to know as I didn't read up on marine velvet. Will Coppersafe take care of marine velvet?

Yes it will

Dreadnaught · Nov 2, 2016

Humblefish · Nov 2, 2016

@Dreadnaught Don't get weird on me buddy.

VJV · Nov 7, 2016

Hi, I am picking up a Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse (or Cirrihilabrus Solorensis which is a shorter easier name [emoji1]) in two days and am a bit concerned about QT. I read some threads on RC and most were saying that the wrasses are very intolerant to copper, and cupramine. A lot also recommend to use cupramine at a lower level, like 0,35. However recently even Seachem seems to recommend treating at a 0,5 concentration...

I do not have access to coppersafe or copper power. There is one thing called cuprazin from Waterlife, but that apparently contains copper sulfate, Malachite Green and Formaldehyde, so it seems to me that it must be harsher than cupramine on the fish.

What are your experiences with Fairy Wrasses and copper, cupramine in particular?

I know I could do TTM but I work abroad so it would be difficult. Also, given it does not treat velvet it would not be 100%. I want to minimize the chances of introducing ich or velvet to the display.

Humblefish · Nov 7, 2016

VJV said:
What are your experiences with Fairy Wrasses and copper, cupramine in particular?

It's been years now since I've used Cupramine, but I didn't notice any unusual losses whilst treating fairy wrasses. However, over the years I've read many anecdotal experiences that say the opposite.

Outdrsyguy1 · Nov 7, 2016

I'm qt'ing a new batch of fish (7 small lyretail anthias, 1 blue reef chromis, 1 starry blenny). I'm doing TTM and I am scheduled for the final TTM move tomorrow. All fish eating well (mostly brine shrimp) and behaving well but today I noticed what I think is a bacterial infection on 2 of the anthias. The scales are slightly raised in a small area and it's reddish underneath them. Should I treat the whole tank with kanaplex, metroplex, and possibly furan-2 or just pull the fish that look ill and put the other fish in their new qt tank tomorrow?
looking for suggestions. Currently all fish are in a 40g qt and my other qt is 2 - 15 gallon tanks i split them up into. I also have a 5 gallon available for spot treatment.

melypr1985 · Nov 7, 2016

VJV said:
Hi, I am picking up a Red Head Solon Fairy Wrasse (or Cirrihilabrus Solorensis which is a shorter easier name [emoji1]) in two days and am a bit concerned about QT. I read some threads on RC and most were saying that the wrasses are very intolerant to copper, and cupramine. A lot also recommend to use cupramine at a lower level, like 0,35. However recently even Seachem seems to recommend treating at a 0,5 concentration...

I do not have access to coppersafe or copper power. There is one thing called cuprazin from Waterlife, but that apparently contains copper sulfate, Malachite Green and Formaldehyde, so it seems to me that it must be harsher than cupramine on the fish.

What are your experiences with Fairy Wrasses and copper, cupramine in particular?

I know I could do TTM but I work abroad so it would be difficult. Also, given it does not treat velvet it would not be 100%. I want to minimize the chances of introducing ich or velvet to the display.

I've been using Coppersafe lately at the store, but before that we used cupramine and had many solon wrasses and other fairy wrasses in the that system. They did fine with it for us.

Humblefish · Nov 7, 2016

Outdrsyguy1 said:
Should I treat the whole tank with kanaplex, metroplex, and possibly furan-2 or just pull the fish that look ill and put the other fish in their new qt tank tomorrow?

I would treat all of them. Many bacterial diseases seem to be species specific, so I would except it to spread to the other anthias if that's what this is.

VJV · Nov 8, 2016

melypr1985 said:
I've been using Coppersafe lately at the store, but before that we used cupramine and had many solon wrasses and other fairy wrasses in the that system. They did fine with it for us.

Thanks. I could try TTM (would need to leave a separate container with water ready and ask my wife to perform the mid week transfer) but 1) she is not into this hobby and very impatient so I'm afraid the wrasse would come flying out at the first opportunity and 2), it would not treat Velvet.

I will do the accelerated cupramine treatment.

1- use a small 12g tank to receive the fish and ramp copper levels up to 0,5 over 5 days

2- transfer the fish to the main QT tank already at 0,5 and leave them there for one week.

3- big water change + carbon and treat with 2 rounds of prazi

4- decide whether to observe or transfer to main tank.

Transfering the fish straight into a fully dosed tank means that all the tomites and Tomonts that are transferred into the tank will be killed, and all trophonts should release during those 7-8 day period and be killed as well. So with just one week of copper (+ 5 day ramp up in the small QT) I will have the fish treated. [emoji4]

VJV · Nov 8, 2016

One other thing melypr, when you treated wrasses with cupramine, did you use it at full therapeutic level of 0,5 and if yes how long would you take to get to that level? Thanks!

Humblefish · Nov 8, 2016

@VJV I would treat with Cupramine (at full therapeutic) for a minimum of 10 days before transferring into a HT. Allow for some wiggle room.

VJV · Nov 8, 2016

Thanks. However, in my method I will transfer into a QT that is at full therapeutic dose, not a HT.

The beauty of this is that I use a small 12g to ramp up to full therapeutic dose, and than transfer the fish to the main QT (30 gallons) which will be at full therapeutic dose as well. They will remain for 10 days at this level and after that I will remove the copper from the system and treat with two doses of PraziPro.

I find that this way there are less concerns of ammonia spikes as they will only be in the small QT for five days, until it reaches 0,5, and than will be transferred to a fully dosed permanent larger QT. The other advantage is that if by any chance a parasite gets transferred to the main QT it will be killed as well because it will be at full therapeutic level for another 7-10 days.

Hope this makes sense.