How to remove Phosphate

  • Thread starter Thread starter kiwis
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None

kiwis

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 18, 2018
Messages
347
Reaction score
83
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi,
I'm using an API test kit so not able to get the most accurate reading however my phosphate levels are around 0.25ppm. It could be lower at somewhere around 0.15 as the colour chart below the 0.25 is zero! It's definitely no higher than 0.25 though.

Either way, it's too high for when I start to look at corals so.

1) For fish only is this much of an issue
2) How do I remove it?

I'm using RO/DI water so not sure how it's got in there but isn't increasing.
 
If your RODI is working correctly, most of the phosphorus that gets into your water is from food. The easiest way to get rid of phosphorus relatively safely is to put some aluminum-based (Phosguard etc) or iron-based (GFO, RowaPhos, etc) phosphate remover in a small reactor and run it slow. Keep an eye on your phosphorus level; add more phosphate remover if necessary to bring it down, but also make sure it doesn't get too low. Bottoming out phosphorus is possible with GFO in particular, and that can definitely hurt your corals, so take it slow and start off using a lot less than the directions call for.

You might also consider a better phosphorus test kit; your steps are only as effective as your test results let them be. The Hanna ULR Phosphorus tester is excellent and will give you good measurements in the range that you're currently at.

There are both faster and slower ways to remove phosphorus. Some people use lanthanum chloride which precipitates phosphate out almost instantly; very effective but risky if you're not careful. I've only used it to pretreat dry rocks, not in an active tank.

Feed less. Grow macroalgae to remove nitrate and phosphate.
 
Hi,
I'm using an API test kit so not able to get the most accurate reading however my phosphate levels are around 0.25ppm. It could be lower at somewhere around 0.15 as the colour chart below the 0.25 is zero! It's definitely no higher than 0.25 though.

Either way, it's too high for when I start to look at corals so.

1) For fish only is this much of an issue
2) How do I remove it?

I'm using RO/DI water so not sure how it's got in there but isn't increasing.
Agree. Get a Hanna Checker. Only use removers if you have to. You don’t want to be close to zero.
 
Wow, I've never seen these before. How long do they last for?
The checker itself will last indefinitely. They are ridiculously stingy on the reagents though; I think the checker only includes enough for 6 or 8 tests. I don't know why they do this, as the reagents aren't particularly expensive. A reagent refill for 25 tests is only $8. Probably a good idea to buy a refill with the checker.

Also, there are some tricks to using it without getting frustrated. The checker will time out and turn itself off if you dawdle at all while doing the test; you really need to follow the directions precisely with no delays. And yet getting the entire packet of reagent into the small cuvette can be tricky, especially if you're hurrying. I personally use and recommend a small plastic funnel; with this, you can get all the powder into the cuvette in 2 seconds, spilling none.

Incidentally, the Hanna alkalinity checker is also fantastic and refills are the same cost as with the phosphorus checker.
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top