sbash
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I had some issues with a used tank, basically, the tank was deadly. Aside from leathers, all the corals I put in it were dead inside of 24 hours. I wanted to use it as a frag tank.
More details here, if you are interested:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-leaching-from-caulking.372910/
Anyway, my solution was to reseal the tank and hope for the best. This was a huge success, and was much simpler and quicker than I expected. Here is the process:
The caulking I was removing had this funny blue tint to it (probably related to the problem?). All of this inside caulking needs to be removed. We don't need to worry about anything between the glass or on the outside.
Also, to save your back (unless you have velcro shoes), put the tank at a good height. Here, I used a couple of adjustable sawhorses to set the height ergonomically.
This is the main tool to remove the caulking. A simple scraper knife, if I recall, I changed the blade once.
This isn't the same tank, but I thought it would be important to show some of the simple technique to remove the caulking. Push the scraper flat against the glass and square to the edge.
Start with glass on the inside (usually the ends). Go all the way down, then switch to the connecting side. If done properly, the bulk of the caulking will be cut off. Repeat this process for the bottom.
The first pass, you should end up with a whole bunch of this. You can see how the corners are nice and square, based on the technique described in the previous step.
While working away in my garage, a small windstorm came through and I heard a crazy crash/bang. It seems the door blew clean off my shed. I must have forgotten to latch it properly...
This was at least a few weeks ago, as the snow is now melted.
This part is key. Once the bulk of the caulking is removed, go over the edges with your finger. If you feel a 'sticky' patch, then there is still caulking to be removed. You'll know when you feel it. Just use the scraper and spot scrape. You can use a flashlight to try to see the trace amounts of caulking if you can't seem to get it all. The glass should be baby-bottom smooth (smoother perhaps?).
You may have noticed the background change, I had to move the set up inside due to the weather. We had a cold snap, so it was too cold in the garage for the new caulking to cure properly.
I used painters tape, you don't need to do this, but it did give a nice clean finish. I didn't tape the bottom, just the four corners. I left a little less than a half inch gap on each edge. The risk of not using tape is a messy job, which in my case wouldn't have mattered (this is just a liverock tank/sump).
Just apply the bead into the corner, and use your finger or a tool (as seen below) to smooth it out.
This is my 3D printed caulking tool. You can buy these, or get me to print them for you (maybe?). Just press this along the bead and is smooths out nicely.
All in all, it turned out alright, the ripple effect is due to my technique with the tool. I usually just use my finger, and realistically, that may have been easier. You can see how the tape gives it a really nice clean edge.
All filled up, no leaks! Let it your newly sealed tank sit for a day or two, filled up, to check for leaks.
More details here, if you are interested:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-leaching-from-caulking.372910/
Anyway, my solution was to reseal the tank and hope for the best. This was a huge success, and was much simpler and quicker than I expected. Here is the process:
The caulking I was removing had this funny blue tint to it (probably related to the problem?). All of this inside caulking needs to be removed. We don't need to worry about anything between the glass or on the outside.
Also, to save your back (unless you have velcro shoes), put the tank at a good height. Here, I used a couple of adjustable sawhorses to set the height ergonomically.
This is the main tool to remove the caulking. A simple scraper knife, if I recall, I changed the blade once.
This isn't the same tank, but I thought it would be important to show some of the simple technique to remove the caulking. Push the scraper flat against the glass and square to the edge.
Start with glass on the inside (usually the ends). Go all the way down, then switch to the connecting side. If done properly, the bulk of the caulking will be cut off. Repeat this process for the bottom.
The first pass, you should end up with a whole bunch of this. You can see how the corners are nice and square, based on the technique described in the previous step.
While working away in my garage, a small windstorm came through and I heard a crazy crash/bang. It seems the door blew clean off my shed. I must have forgotten to latch it properly...
This was at least a few weeks ago, as the snow is now melted.
This part is key. Once the bulk of the caulking is removed, go over the edges with your finger. If you feel a 'sticky' patch, then there is still caulking to be removed. You'll know when you feel it. Just use the scraper and spot scrape. You can use a flashlight to try to see the trace amounts of caulking if you can't seem to get it all. The glass should be baby-bottom smooth (smoother perhaps?).
You may have noticed the background change, I had to move the set up inside due to the weather. We had a cold snap, so it was too cold in the garage for the new caulking to cure properly.
I used painters tape, you don't need to do this, but it did give a nice clean finish. I didn't tape the bottom, just the four corners. I left a little less than a half inch gap on each edge. The risk of not using tape is a messy job, which in my case wouldn't have mattered (this is just a liverock tank/sump).
Just apply the bead into the corner, and use your finger or a tool (as seen below) to smooth it out.
This is my 3D printed caulking tool. You can buy these, or get me to print them for you (maybe?). Just press this along the bead and is smooths out nicely.
All in all, it turned out alright, the ripple effect is due to my technique with the tool. I usually just use my finger, and realistically, that may have been easier. You can see how the tape gives it a really nice clean edge.
All filled up, no leaks! Let it your newly sealed tank sit for a day or two, filled up, to check for leaks.
