How to use a PAR meter

redpine42

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Thinking about getting one of these. I'm technically capable and understand how they work, but am interested in how you determine what the right PAR is for a specific piece of coral? All I see referenced is High, Medium and Low. And the worst part is I often find conflicting anecdotal information.

Is there an authoritative reference for the relationship between coral and PAR? If not I don't see the value for measuring PAR, just another expensive device.
 
The short answer is you don't need one. The longer answer is, depending on a lot of other factors, it could be quite useful ;Wacky

There is no definitive list for the proper PAR for any specific coral. That's just totally unreasonable. As for a relationship, yes. Some corals are known to like higher PAR, some are known to do just fine in low PAR and some are highly adaptable to most any sufficient PAR. And understanding what your PAR is at different depths and different areas in your tank can prove to be very useful information (if you worry about such things). I've tested tanks where the highest coral in the tank was getting PAR levels over 400 and and corals on the sand under the shade of a rock ledge were getting PAR levels of under 50. Also, getting a new fixture, especially an led fixture, can be a real crap shoot in terms of peak PAR and spread of PAR over the length and width of the tank.

Is all that really super important? Probably less than most other things we measure related to our tanks. Is it useful? Well, it depends on how OCD you are! ;Nailbiting As well as a bit on what kinds of corals you keep (especially if you keep a real mix). And what kind of fixture you use and what the rockscape in your tank looks like and even how deep your tank is. But if you can borrow a PAR meter and take readings in your tank and draw up a map of PAR levels, that's probably all you'll need it for. Until you change something.

I've owned one for a long time. And I've used it on 7 of my own tanks in that time. I got it to know when my old power compact fluorescent bulbs needed to be changed. Turns out it can't really do that as the issue with fluorescent is spectrum shift and not PAR levels. But when I switched to leds about 6 years ago it came in very handy. Now I don't use it much, but when I do, the data I get is fairly helpful. And I've been able to do a lot of helpful testing of other peoples tanks over the years. Again, especially when they switched from MH or t5 to leds.
 
Very handy, to make a map as described above, or even just to spot check a particular area. I bought a small clam the other day, put it at a certain spot of the sand bed. Hmm, enough light there? Pull out the PAR meter, find that it's 150. Marginal. After a couple weeks I will move it up to a ledge just above where it will get 220. Without the meter it would be a lot more guesswork.

If you're looking for numbers, low for me is around 50-100, moderate is 100-250, high is over 250. Max is whatever you take it to but max I've subjected acros to is around 500 PAR.
 
So I take that the conflicting info I find on how much light a coral needs is all anecdotal and there is no really known best level of PAR. Surely some Phd has done research?
 
So I take that the conflicting info I find on how much light a coral needs is all anecdotal and there is no really known best level of PAR. Surely some Phd has done research?

IMO, there have been some really thought out, well intentioned studies on the amount of light that coral "needs" or even a "max," but many have seen them blow right by both ends of this with tremendous success. Quality matters... with more quality can have more quantity... this is why MH and T5 can have twice the PAR as LEDs without harming coral. The bottom line is that there are some acropora that grow out of the water in low tide that have the full bore of sunlight, UV, IR, etc. that also will grow in 30 feet of water where some of the spectrum and a lot of the PAR is filtered out by the water - I am only really into acropora, so sorry, but I can say that I can give Bounce and JawBreaker Mushrooms over 500 PAR and they grow faster than if I give them 250... but they will also live in less than 100.
 

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