How to use BRS 2 part?

ndz98 · Feb 4, 2016

So I just got the 2 part kit in today. I guess technically it's three since you have magnesium too. So here's what I know. You mix 2 1/2 cups of calcium chloride with a gallon of ro water in a jug, mix 2 cups of soda ash in a gallon of ro, and 8 cups magnesium mix with a gallon of ro. Now on the last part when mixing the magnesium, i actually heard it's supposed to be like 5 cups magnesium chloride and 3 cups magnesium sulfate but they are both mixed together in the pre portioned pack from what it looks like on the package. Is that going to be a problem? I do know that magnesium won't be dosed nearly as often as the calcium and soda ash. I haven't tested my tanks levels yet because the test kit I ordered had a leak unfortunately. But when I do and find out what the levels are, say if I need to raise calcium by 100 ppm, do I dose the calcium chloride over a couple days or all at once? I've seen don't raise more than 100 ppm a day then I've also seen don't raise more than 50 ppm per day. Not sure which one is better. I'm gonna guess my tank is 30 gallons overall with sump and rocks combined.

cameronh · Feb 5, 2016

@kschweer, know anybody who would could help him out with this?

hybridazn · Feb 5, 2016

For the mixing of mag, I can't comment because it's been years since I mixed mine up from brs and forgot how I did it lol. I rarely dose it.

You can raise calcium in one day no problem. The only one you will want to raise slowly is alk.

Downbeach · Feb 5, 2016

There's a few steps I would take before I started dosing, to determine if you even need to start adding those elements, starting with your SG. I would first thoroughly mix your dry salt mix to ensure there has been no elemental stratification that may have occurred during shipping, ensuring the proper proportion of all the elements(Ca, Mg, Alk, etc.) are included with each measurement of mix you'll be adding to the RO/DI water. Secondly, make sure you're getting an accurate SG reading @ 1.026(35ppt) by using a decent, properly calibrated measuring device, i.e. refractometer calibrated with a 35ppt calibration solution(not water). Next I would establish a consistent WC schedule, in terms of both frequency and volume, since this is where your adding/replenishing those elements initially and going forward. Although I think it prudent to do these steps regardless of whether your dosing or not, it becomes more important when dosing due to the fact that your WC's can skew your dosing, especially if your make up water has varying levels of SG and the associated elements(Ca, Mg, Alk, etc.).

miyags · Feb 5, 2016

You can watch the BRS video on dosing and when you get your test kit, you can use the BRS calculator to tell you how much to add

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 5, 2016

There's no problem that the magnesium parts are premixed.

When you first check your levels, you might want to make corrections to calcium or magnesium to get them about where you want before you start regular dosing since the salt mix may not match what you want. This calculator shows what to use for this and many other products. Use the Entry for Randy's Recipe 1:

http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chem_calc3.html

The idea about not raising the levels too much at once for calcium and magnesium (not alkalinity) is only out of concern for impurities in the additives that might best be spread out. There's no rush for these sorts of corrections, but I would generally only add 25-50 ppm per day max.

Then once calcium and magnesium are about right, begin regular dosing of everything. Use equal parts dosing of calcium and alkalinity based on the need for alkalinity. The first dose will probably be bigger than regular daily maintenance doses. SO if you dose 10 mL of alk to maintain 8 dKH (or whatever your target is), then dose 10 mL of the calcium and only adjust the calcium over a long period of time where you determine that more or less is needed.

The magnesium is dosed in a much lower amount. That can be daily, or spread out more. In a smaller tank like yours, I wouldn't wait till a whole gallon of the others is gone. Add it more frequently, but in the same relative volume. That recommended dosage amount is designed to keep magnesium where it is, and again, stick to the recommended dose based on calcium. Just because you are about at your target, don't decide to not dose magnesium. It adds more than magnesium, and the amount of magnesium it is actually adding is pretty small.

I discuss a lot of details of the recipe here:

An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

ndz98 · Feb 5, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
There's no problem that the magnesium parts are premixed.

When you first check your levels, you might want to make corrections to calcium or magnesium to get them about where you want before you start regular dosing since the salt mix may not match what you want. This calculator shows what to use for this and many other products. Use the Entry for Randy's Recipe 1:

http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chem_calc3.html

The idea about not raising the levels too much at once for calcium and magnesium (not alkalinity) is only out of concern for impurities in the additives that might best be spread out. There's no rush for these sorts of corrections, but I would generally only add 25-50 ppm per day max.

Then once calcium and magnesium are about right, begin regular dosing of everything. Use equal parts dosing of calcium and alkalinity based on the need for alkalinity. The first dose will probably be bigger than regular daily maintenance doses. SO if you dose 10 mL of alk to maintain 8 dKH (or whatever your target is), then dose 10 mL of the calcium and only adjust the calcium over a long period of time where you determine that more or less is needed.

The magnesium is dosed in a much lower amount. That can be daily, or spread out more. In a smaller tank like yours, I wouldn't wait till a whole gallon of the others is gone. Add it more frequently, but in the same relative volume. That recommended dosage amount is designed to keep magnesium where it is, and again, stick to the recommended dose based on calcium. Just because you are about at your target, don't decide to not dose magnesium. It adds more than magnesium, and the amount of magnesium it is actually adding is pretty small.

I discuss a lot of details of the recipe here:

An Improved Do-it-Yourself Two-Part Calcium and Alkalinity Supplement System by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/rhf/index.php

Firstly, thank you for everyone's feedback!

So what are the typical correct levels of mag alk and calcium in a reef tank?

ndz98 · Feb 5, 2016

ndz98 said:
Firstly, thank you for everyone's feedback!

So what are the typical correct levels of mag alk and calcium in a reef tank?

I actually just watched the new brs video and it answered my question. So the levels should be
Calcium:420 ppm
dKH:8.5
Mag:1300 ppm

So what you're saying Randy is I am going to need to put a bigger dose in when I first start and bring it to those levels above. Then test every day for a couple weeks to see how much of each level the tank uses each day and once I know exactly how much I just dose the little amount lost everyday? And if I am using instant ocean reef crystals salt and change to a different salt that has more nutrients in it, would I have to re test and re calculate how much I would need to add initially after every water change?

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 5, 2016

ndz98 said:
Firstly, thank you for everyone's feedback!

So what are the typical correct levels of mag alk and calcium in a reef tank?

I describe what I think is appropriate here:

Optimal Parameters for a Coral Reef Aquarium: By Randy Holmes-Farley

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 5, 2016

ndz98 said:
I actually just watched the new brs video and it answered my question. So the levels should be
Calcium:420 ppm
dKH:8.5
Mag:1300 ppm

So what you're saying Randy is I am going to need to put a bigger dose in when I first start and bring it to those levels above. Then test every day for a couple weeks to see how much of each level the tank uses each day and once I know exactly how much I just dose the little amount lost everyday? And if I am using instant ocean reef crystals salt and change to a different salt that has more nutrients in it, would I have to re test and re calculate how much I would need to add initially after every water change?

There are a number of ways to do it. If demand is substantial, I think picking a starting dose and adjusting it up or down is better than going for a while without dosing.

But if demand is low, you can do as you suggest. Base the dosing on the alk change, not calcium, which will be too noisy for short term determinations.

The term nutrients refers to nitrate and phosphate, typically. Salt mixes won't have those.

If you change to a different mix with different values of calcium and alk, then yes you may need to adjust the dosing.

ndz98 · Feb 5, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
There are a number of ways to do it. If demand is substantial, I think picking a starting dose and adjusting it up or down is better than going for a while without dosing.

But if demand is low, you can do as you suggest. Base the dosing on the alk change, not calcium, which will be too noisy for short term determinations.

The term nutrients refers to nitrate and phosphate, typically. Salt mixes won't have those.

If you change to a different mix with different values of calcium and alk, then yes you may need to adjust the dosing.

What exactly do you mean by basing the dosing on the alk instead of calcium because it will be too noisy?

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 5, 2016

I mean dose calcium and alkalinity in equal liquid volumes in sufficient amount to maintain alkalinity. Calcium will follow along just fine.

Then only fine tune the calcium over long periods of time. Day to day measurements of calcium show too much random variation to allow rapid adjusting up or down.

ndz98 · Feb 5, 2016

Oh so alkalinity is something you could dose every day but calcium is something you do maybe every few days or longer right?

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
I mean dose calcium and alkalinity in equal liquid volumes in sufficient amount to maintain alkalinity. Calcium will follow along just fine.

Then only fine tune the calcium over long periods of time. Day to day measurements of calcium show too much random variation to allow rapid adjusting up or down.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 5, 2016

While that is certainly fine to do, that isn't what I meant.

If it takes 5 mL per day of the alk part to maintain your target alkalinity, then dose 5 mL per day of the calcium part. That is how a two part system is designed. Then slowly adjust either part as needed.

ndz98 · Feb 5, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
While that is certainly fine to do, that isn't what I meant.

If it takes 5 mL per day of the alk part to maintain your target alkalinity, then dose 5 mL per day of the calcium part. That is how a two part system is designed. Then slowly adjust either part as needed.

I feel like a dummy lol. Sorry about that. I completely get what you're saying now. Thank you for your help! I'm going to test the water tonight and possibly do an initial dose either today or tomorrow.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 6, 2016

You're welcome.

Stop back with any concerns.

SROPE · Feb 6, 2016

Thank you Randy for all you teach us!

Randy Holmes-Farley · Feb 6, 2016

SROPE said:
Thank you Randy for all you teach us!

You're very welcome.

Happy Reefing!

ndz98 · Feb 6, 2016

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
You're welcome.

Stop back with any concerns.

Okay so I tested alk, mag, and calcium last night.

Alk: 12.9-13.2
Calcium: >500
Mag: >1600

Those levels are extremely high and I double checked I didn't screw up when testing. Being that I have been using reef crystals and I have a minimal amount of coral taking in all, calcium, and mag could that be the reason it's so high? Is there any way to drop those levels? Also could that be the reason my torch coral is losing its color and my zoas are kind of looking a little funky? One other thought I had was to switch to regular salt and try to let the levels drop.