How would BRS threaten dino?

[m0jjen]

Im curious with all the dino problems coming along these days if BRS even has encountered it, if not do you have a theory to why?

And if you have what was your means of threatment? I know there are about as many dino species as there are ants in the world but I for one think its something worthwhile for you investigation series!

 

[randyBRS]

Im curious with all the dino problems coming along these days if BRS even has encountered it, if not do you have a theory to why
And if you have what was your means of threatment? I know there are about as many dino species as there are ants in the world but I for one think its something worthwhile for you investigation series!

Hey there!

Sorry for the delay on a response here. I really hope that we can tackle some of these tougher treatment topics some day, but I'm not entirely sure if/when that could happen in the form of a fully researched, tested, and produced video.

I can say that I've recently (yesterday) embarked on a treatment method for a possible dino(s) outbreak in the BRS160. About a month ago I started getting signs of cyano on the sand. I tried the classic treatment methods for it (lighting, flow, chemiclean, etc.) which seemed to knock it back, but that was short lived.

Now we are showing telltale signs of dinos, however it is isolated to the sand bed only. My first treatment approach is to black out the tank and kick up the pH using the CO2 scrubber media and possibly some Kalk dripping. We'll see how that goes over the next few days and determine if another method will be needed.

I've been reading the ongoing threads about Metronidazole and am pretty interested in that approach, but time will tell.

(https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...away-dinoflagellates-vs-metronidazole.254861/ )

-Randy

 

[Areseebee]

I believe the correct way to threaten dinos is by shaking your fist and screaming at the top of your lungs.

 

[m0jjen]

@randyBRS Thank you! I hope to see it one day in the BRS youtube series

I believe the correct way to threaten dinos is by shaking your fist and screaming at the top of your lungs.

I've tried that a couple of time with a minimal succsessrate. I would not recommend this to anyone!

 

[Rakie]

I've been reading the ongoing threads about Metronidazole and am pretty interested in that approach, but time will tell.

(https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...away-dinoflagellates-vs-metronidazole.254861/ )

-Randy

Never saw this thread before... Started Metro day 1, as off like half an hour ago.

 

[Fishhands]

I had the worst case of dino. It lasted for 6 months. Stunted growth in half a killed rest of frags in my tank. Nothing worked. Week long blackouts, kalk drip, no water changes,daily water changes, only blues on led...etc. I even dosed peroxide at 2ml per gallon. Finally on BRS I came across dino x. They seem to be the ONLY ones that sell it. This made me skeptical. Mixed reviews and tons of back and forth, I pulled the trigger. I figured nothing could hurt any more. All my fish and half my snails were dead too. Well it freaking worked! Really it did. Took about a week of dosing every 2nd day. Just read instructions. Use it too long and tissue will deteriorate. I even did a small treatment two weeks ago form some gha that started growing. Again gone with only 2 treatments. 4 days Follow directions they are vague, but just don't interpret anything they don't say.
Before:

After: dead dino

 

[bif24701]

I added 50 pounds of uncured dry Pukani to my sump for 30 days, then placed it all into the display. The system had been running for 1 year prior to this not had any major out break of dinos. But adding the rock caused a pretty bloom of dinos that started to cover some small frags which I had to clean off every day. My strategy, add Phosphate .

I had to dose three times in the last two weeks and now the display has improved drastically.

99% of the dinos are gone replaced with a tiny amount of film algae in just two weeks simply by keeping my PO4 >.05. I call it a huge success.

Other things I did:
Stop GFO/GAC
Run and change filter socks daily
Clean fuge/cheato
More wet skimming

 

[Fishhands]

What made you decide to dose phosphate? I'm very intrigued about the source. Even BRS doesn't know active ingredient in dino x.

 

[bif24701]

What made you decide to dose phosphate? I'm very intrigued about the source. Even BRS doesn't know active ingredient in dino x.

There is a thread going on testing Dinos and some suggested Adding Phosphorus and seemed successful

I wish I had taken before pictures, it was bad really really bad, but who the heak takes photos when the display is all nasty.

Like I said it was covering up corals, most all rock and sand. It had clogged some of my powerheads. There where great long strings of it everywhere.

 

[Rakie]

I had gotten rid of dinos before by dosing no3 and po4 -- But I ended up getting bryopsis at a later date from a frag plug... Killing the bryopsis brought back Dinos with a vengeance, so here I am trying MetroPlex at 125mg/10g. Reading the thread, it seemed like a more long term solution, even though OP didn't tout it as a solution.

 

[Velcro]

I've had the best luck with phosphate dosing when Dino's start to show up. Chemicals just seem to cause frag death.

 

[Fishhands]

Someone send @randyBRS some rock covered in dino and maybe they can grow it out then find a reliably safe and effective antidote.

 

[randyBRS]

Someone send @randyBRS some rock covered in dino and maybe they can grow it out then find a reliably safe and effective antidote.

Don't put that on me! LOL!

I'm pretty sure we have one of the strains that are a bit more "manageable" than others I've seen. So far the black out has kept it at bay for a week, but there are still remnants of it here and there on the sand bed. I may try three more days of black out, as a final knockout punch.

-Randy

 

[Fishhands]

That's so good fir you that its manageable. Blackouts would make it go away at 1st but, only 3 hrs lights on it would come back before my eyes. I can see in thoery that phosphate works as mine loved water changes. It thrived after manual vacuuming and fresh water.

 

[Scott.h]

I added 50 pounds of uncured dry Pukani to my sump for 30 days, then placed it all into the display. The system had been running for 1 year prior to this not had any major out break of dinos. But adding the rock caused a pretty bloom of dinos that started to cover some small frags which I had to clean off every day. My strategy, add Phosphate .

I had to dose three times in the last two weeks and now the display has improved drastically.

99% of the dinos are gone replaced with a tiny amount of film algae in just two weeks simply by keeping my PO4 >.05. I call it a huge success.

Other things I did:
Stop GFO/GAC
Run and change filter socks daily
Clean fuge/cheato
More wet skimming

off topic but what is your water volume and how much did it take to increase po4 .01?

 

[bif24701]

off topic but what is your water volume and how much did it take to increase po4 .01?

Water volume is ~285 gallons, I added as directed to raise PO4 by 0.1 not .01. Just tried to keep it above .05

 

[FFJB]

Hey there!

Sorry for the delay on a response here. I really hope that we can tackle some of these tougher treatment topics some day, but I'm not entirely sure if/when that could happen in the form of a fully researched, tested, and produced video.

I can say that I've recently (yesterday) embarked on a treatment method for a possible dino(s) outbreak in the BRS160. About a month ago I started getting signs of cyano on the sand. I tried the classic treatment methods for it (lighting, flow, chemiclean, etc.) which seemed to knock it back, but that was short lived.

Now we are showing telltale signs of dinos, however it is isolated to the sand bed only. My first treatment approach is to black out the tank and kick up the pH using the CO2 scrubber media and possibly some Kalk dripping. We'll see how that goes over the next few days and determine if another method will be needed.

I've been reading the ongoing threads about Metronidazole and am pretty interested in that approach, but time will tell.

(https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/w...away-dinoflagellates-vs-metronidazole.254861/ )

-Randy

In my case the meds didn't work. Bleach worked quick and it was super easy to do. Dose twice a day and that's it.

 

[FFJB]

Never saw this thread before... Started Metro day 1, as off like half an hour ago.

Didn't work for me

 

[Rakie]

Didn't work for me

What I like to always remind people -- There's well over 2,000 species of dinos. Odds are only about 20 will be found in our tanks, but still, 20 different species which may or may not react to any number of medications.

As for me -- It worked like a charm. They are 100% gone, after some big water changes I've run into zero issues.

 

[Peng]

NUTRIENTS (for dino problems caused by lack of nutriens).
I had dino before which killed half of my tank. It was close to a year of struggling and at times feeling like I was completely losing the battle and was about to quit the hobby altogether. After trying pretty much everything I had on the table, I was destined for the last resort - nutrients. And it worked. Contrary to the popular belief that dino should be eliminated by nutrient control or Alk raise or H2O2, dino does not fear them and it is competitive enough to always be able to outcompete other bigger organisms such as green algae for nutrients and they would always come back if the root of the problem is not solved. So I unplugged my BP reactor and kept only a skimmer in the sump. I introduced some new fish into my tank and started to feed heavily. Several months later green algae started showing up again with dino still present. Then several months after that dino went away, slowly. After dino was gone corals were growing again and the colors were just fantastic. If I had given up, I would have never seen my tank as beautiful as it is today. My LFS also had a dino outbreak in their tanks and I worked with the store to try out different things and eventually the nutrient method also got rid of dino in their tanks as well. I still think that it may be back to the basics - competition. At the end of the day it really is about balance and stability. Dino shows up, in my experience, when the nutrient level is low and algae are starved to death. Higher nutrient level allows competition which may contain dino population. All of our tanks have dinos of some sort. It is misguiding, in my opinion, to recommend that people reach undetectable nutrient levels (NO3 and PO4). Not only will corals starve to death, weed organisms such as dinos can overpopulate in such conditions. Nowadays reactors and media are so effective it becomes a problems as I often come across peoples tanks that are starving, corals pale with little zoo. I know many people who have played with undetectable or very very low nutrient levels and resulted in a crash / large loss of corals by or partially by dino outbreaks when their nutrient levels accidentally reached zero. So don't play with UNLS unless you are well experienced and well informed. Many people for example at WWC they keep higher-than-you'd-think nutrient levels and still have pretty amazing results. If you really like that UNLS look you can still use Zeospur2 to get the results in a higher nutrient environment.

**I also tried Seachem's phosphate and Stump Remover dosing. The results were not very stable and not as good as keeping more fish and feeding more. But don't add a bunch of fish at once. A few or one at a time, and test your NO3 level after a while.