How?!

[sharkbait1122*]

So I’ve tried keeping zoanthids a few times. They average around 100-120 par. All parameters sit in normal range, phos about .2 and nitrates around 10-15…yet I cannot keep them alive growing or thriving. What’s the secret ha

 

[blaxsun]

Water, lighting, flow. Maybe post some images of your tank with some examples of your latest victims, lol.

 

[sharkbait1122*]

Currently my 2 sad sad frags

 

[vetteguy53081]

Light and flow Are important. Acclimation is also. There are a number of factors why zoas close up. Some are water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider a moderate flow environment ideal but Zoanthids, like most corals, can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks. Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and ultra low nutrient conditions can lead to entire colony meltdowns. Target feeding is not a requirement as Zoanthids are photosynthetic. I have found that target feeding Zoanthids always provides mixed results, when a food particle falls onto the polyps.

Back to parameters, good water quality is a must.
dKH: 8.0 - 11.0
Calcium: 400 - 440
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .04 - .06
Nitrates < 10

Asterina stars, little tiny tiny spiders and nudibranchs also will make them miserable to point of death as will aptasia, worms like spinoids or vermetid snails. A few things to look for.

 

[Lavey29]

So I’ve tried keeping zoanthids a few times. They average around 100-120 par. All parameters sit in normal range, phos about .2 and nitrates around 10-15…yet I cannot keep them alive growing or thriving. What’s the secret ha

.2 is not considered normal range for phosphate. Have you done an ICP test to check everything? What is your light system and schedule?

 

[sharkbait1122*]

Light system is Kessil a160we runs at 85%int 25% color for 5hrs with a 2hr ramp up and down. Feed them 2x a week with aminos and reef roids, I acclimated both over a 1.5hr window including a coral rx dip. Iodine is dosed every couple days to specified amount. And alk sits at 8.9 to 9.1 ph 8.15 calcium is 410-420 and mag is 1340. And flow is indirect low-mod

 

[Lavey29]

Light system is Kessil a160we runs at 85%int 25% color for 5hrs with a 2hr ramp up and down. Feed them 2x a week with aminos and reef roids, I acclimated both over a 1.5hr window including a coral rx dip. Iodine is dosed every couple days to specified amount. And alk sits at 8.9 to 9.1 ph 8.15 calcium is 410-420 and mag is 1340. And flow is indirect low-mod

Cut out the reef roids and your phosphate will come down. Corals need at least 10 hours of light which includes ramp up and down time
I have zoas in 150 to 250 par right now

 

[gavinz]

Check mag. I know from my experience that when zoas start acting up a lot of times it’s due to magnesium

 

[Lavey29]

Check mag. I know from my experience that when zoas start acting up a lot of times it’s due to magnesium

As in low magnesium? I run close to 1500 now with very established zoa colonies.

 

[gavinz]

As in low magnesium? I run close to 1500 now with very established zoa colonies.

Low or high

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do NOT elevate your mag to high levels. While some reefers can get away with high levels, typical readings are 1250-1350 ppm. An over high level of magnesium can harm your marine life including the invertebrates and snails and clams can become inactive, lethargic and weakened and even death. In turn they will get eaten by larger marine specimens.
Fish may also experience:

• erratic swimming
• lethargy
• stunted growth

Also watch your corals closely when levels are elevated as they may lose their vibrancy and become unhealthy as well. Soft corals have a higher demand for magnesium than most other types of coral but in a mixed reef can spell Disaster.

 

[Lavey29]

Do NOT elevate your mag to high levels. While some reefers can get away with high levels, typical readings are 1250-1350 ppm. An over high level of magnesium can harm your marine life including the invertebrates and snails and clams can become inactive, lethargic and weakened and even death. In turn they will get eaten by larger marine specimens.
Fish may also experience:

• erratic swimming
• lethargy
• stunted growth

Also watch your corals closely when levels are elevated as they may lose their vibrancy and become unhealthy as well. Soft corals have a higher demand for magnesium than most other types of coral but in a mixed reef can spell Disaster.

Can't say I agree with this completely. Really high mag can be difficult on some shrimp inverts with their molting process but seems to do nothing to harm fish or corals. I know a number of high end coral vendors who maintain 1500 magnesium.

 

[PicassoClown04]

If you can keep clove, 99% you can keep zoas. The best thing I’ve ever found reefing is that water changes will help/fix the problem most of the time if you use a good salt and RODI. I’ve kept zoas in all kinds of conditions, I would look at pests/predators that could be in your tank and make sure you’re not blasting them with very high flow

 

[vetteguy53081]

Can't say I agree with this completely. Really high mag can be difficult on some shrimp inverts with their molting process but seems to do nothing to harm fish or corals. I know a number of high end coral vendors who maintain 1500 magnesium.

I’m saying, it’s not for everyone. Vendors do it to reduce maintenance and algae off their coral. They typically don’t have livestock in with their frags. Will have adverse effects in mixed reef settings
It’s not the recommended range and attending many seminars and zoom sessions, 1300-1350 is the consensus

 

[Lavey29]

I’m saying, it’s not for everyone. Vendors do it to reduce maintenance and algae off their coral. They typically don’t have livestock in with their frags. Will have adverse effects in mixed reef settings
It’s not the recommended range and attending many seminars and zoom sessions, 1300-1350 is the consensus

The vendors I use have cool fish, snails. Crabs, etc...in their frag tanks...my local one has a leopard shark in one now too.

 

[Lavey29]

Hey OP, I've got some great zoa colonies growing some a little to much but last week I ordered some Blue AOI zoas which are from the Caribbean. They have been in the tank a week now and won't open. They are next to other zoas that are flourishing but yet these just won't open. I'm not sure why either. They are in the same par as the vendor who sold them so for what isn't is worth, maybe you just haven't found the right bunch for your tank yet. I'm sure you will get some to thrive for you soon

 

[Doglips56]

Light and flow Are important. Acclimation is also. There are a number of factors why zoas close up. Some are water movement/flow as zoas do not require the consistent high flow conditions that SPS corals do. I would consider a moderate flow environment ideal but Zoanthids, like most corals, can adapt to low or high flow. In high flow, you will typically see polyps grow closer to the rock with shorter stalks. Another is lack of feeding and food as infrequent feeding and ultra low nutrient conditions can lead to entire colony meltdowns. Target feeding is not a requirement as Zoanthids are photosynthetic. I have found that target feeding Zoanthids always provides mixed results, when a food particle falls onto the polyps.

Back to parameters, good water quality is a must.
dKH: 8.0 - 11.0
Calcium: 400 - 440
Magnesium: 1300 - 1350
Iodide: Maintained via regular water changes or manually at small dosages
Temperature: 78-79 degrees
pH: 8.1-8.3
Phosphates: .04 - .06
Nitrates < 10

Asterina stars, little tiny tiny spiders and nudibranchs also will make them miserable to point of death as will aptasia, worms like spinoids or vermetid snails. A few things to look for.

I have a few asterinas and spaghetti worms galore. How can I check for the spiders and spinoids and are there any predators that could rid my tank if I do have them? I’m about to upgrade from a 40_B to a 110 with a large sump. My zoas are not happy but we recently bought new lights and have been slowly acclimating the tank to the new lighting. If I have these pests I’d like to get rid of them now because my large anemone rock and corals will be moving to the big tank

 

[Sleeping Giant]

Move it up off the sand bed maybe

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have a few asterinas and spaghetti worms galore. How can I check for the spiders and spinoids and are there any predators that could rid my tank if I do have them? I’m about to upgrade from a 40_B to a 110 with a large sump. My zoas are not happy but we recently bought new lights and have been slowly acclimating the tank to the new lighting. If I have these pests I’d like to get rid of them now because my large anemone rock and corals will be moving to the big tank

Spaghetti worms are fine but if you want to remove them and spinoid. Use edge of a credit card or small plastic putty knife and net them up
For spiders, they’re super tiny but generally found climbing in and out of zoa heads

 

[Doglips56]

Spaghetti worms are fine but if you want to remove them and spinoid. Use edge of a credit card or small plastic putty knife and net them up

Thank you. Will not be moving the sand to the new tank. The spaghetti works are mostly in the sand bed though I suppose some could be in the rocks?