Husbandry question

[Keithb22]

So I get that this has probably been asked a thousand times but I was hoping some one could help clear something up for me. So let me just lay it all out there, I am newer to this hobby but have done my due diligence in researching as has been recommended on this forum. The books I’m getting my information from are the modern coral reef aquarium. Book of coral propagation. aquarium coral selection, husbandry and the natural history. So 3 total books. This is where all my knowledge comes from and I lack the experience, just so no one thinks I am being unpleasant or confrontational. I thank you ahead of time.

So all of these books have described zoanthids as requiring moderate to high lighting, moderate to high water flow. But every one who has and sells zoa’s keeps/recommends low/medium light and enough flow to keep detritus off. If these inverts come from a place in nature where they live at the more extremes, then why is there this gap?

again I am trying to make sure I’m keeping my zoa’s in the best place possible and just want to get a clear answer to have at my disposal. Thank you again for any help.

Keith

 

[Quietman]

Zoa's really aren't all one thing as far as lighting and flow. Different species of zoas have evolved for different depths, light and flow conditions. Some do really well in lower light, some do better in moderate, some will require higher light to thrive but all can usually be acclimated successfully to other conditions. They are an easy-ish coral and will acclimate to broad range successfully with time. However, some people do struggle with zoas or a particular zoa type.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

So I get that this has probably been asked a thousand times but I was hoping some one could help clear something up for me. So let me just lay it all out there, I am newer to this hobby but have done my due diligence in researching as has been recommended on this forum. The books I’m getting my information from are the modern coral reef aquarium. Book of coral propagation. aquarium coral selection, husbandry and the natural history. So 3 total books. This is where all my knowledge comes from and I lack the experience, just so no one thinks I am being unpleasant or confrontational. I thank you ahead of time.

So all of these books have described zoanthids as requiring moderate to high lighting, moderate to high water flow. But every one who has and sells zoa’s keeps/recommends low/medium light and enough flow to keep detritus off. If these inverts come from a place in nature where they live at the more extremes, then why is there this gap?

again I am trying to make sure I’m keeping my zoa’s in the best place possible and just want to get a clear answer to have at my disposal. Thank you again for any help.

Keith

Key Keith, so like any animal in this hobby, particular specimens like different conditions. In your books, there probably comparing the zoas care in retrospect to mushrooms where online venders are comparing them to sps. Sps like VERY high flow and light. Zoas can be hit or miss. I have zoas up in 350 par growing around acro’s and I have zoas in the sand bed. It depends on the specimen

 

[Keithb22]

You two have brought about a sense of calm so thank you for clearing all that up, is there anything In particular I should look for to gauge what conditions they would thrive? Right now I have them in decent flow and on the bottom rack of my stand (about 2-3 inches off the bottom) in a 12 inch deep Waterbox.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

What light and what kind of zoas?

You two have brought about a sense of calm so thank you for clearing all that up, is there anything In particular I should look for to gauge what conditions they would thrive? Right now I have them in decent flow and on the bottom rack of my stand (about 2-3 inches off the bottom) in a 12 inch deep Waterbox.

 

[Keithb22]

I have the Radion xr15 pro g5 on a Waterbox frag 45.2 which is 24x24x~12. I have some awesome blossom, bob marley, and fruit loops. I had gotten a double bulb t5 fixture that they were on for a couple day so at the moment I’m running a 45 day acclimation on them right now.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

I have the Radion xr15 pro g5 on a Waterbox frag 45.2 which is 24x24x~12. I have some awesome blossom, bob marley, and fruit loops. I had gotten a double bulb t5 fixture that they were on for a couple day so at the moment I’m running a 45 day acclimation on them right now.

They should be fine where they are. What do you have the xr15 set at % wise?

 

[Keithb22]

honestly I selected acclimation mode and set up how long I wanted to acclimate everything, the app just automatically dialed it back to 50% so that’s where I left it. Everything to include the zoa’s seem to be doing well, that’s not to high is it?

 

[Glott3133]

I have xr30's and I set my acclimation at 35% with a final output of 50%. My zoas sit in the bottom third of my tank and do very well. They do like a good amount of flow or they will close up. But like others have said, it does depend on the type of zoa.

 

[Keithb22]

I have xr30's and I set my acclimation at 35% with a final output of 50%. My zoas sit in the bottom third of my tank and do very well. They do like a good amount of flow or they will close up. But like others have said, it does depend on the type of zoa.

how did you orient your power head? I’ve got mine giving alright flow but it’s mostly agitating the surface.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

They should be fine. Just enough to give the zoa skirts a tiny bit of movement is good!

 

[Glott3133]

how did you orient your power head? I’ve got mine giving alright flow but it’s mostly agitating the surface.

They're more in a direct path, but not that close. My powerhead is more focused on a birdsnest that I have in the area. The zoas just get the effects of all of that motion.

 

[Keithb22]

They should be fine. Just enough to give the zoa skirts a tiny bit of movement is good!

awesome thank you guys, we’re just checking out the Georgia aquarium today and when I get back I’ll fine tune the zoa’s

 

[Keithb22]

Alright so I got everything re oriented, blastos and acans on bottom with the mushrooms. Next level up is my favia, favites and zoas. I moved a zoa up to the next level to see how it reacts with a bit more light and flow. But the rest seem to be getting decent flow. Let me know what you all think and if you think this will work.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

Should be good, acans might want a bit less light but time will tell!

 

[littlebigreef]

If the Coral Propagation book you're referring to is the Anthony Calfo one then that's an excellent resource.

I think everyone did a nice job answering your question. I would add that many of the aquacultured zoas available are well removed from their natural state and have been keep in mixed reefs, under artificial lights going back potentially generations. So really, what you're trying to do is sync up with the aquarium parameters the mother colony was kept in. For this reason it's good to know your params (including par) and the seller's params. Additionally, it's always better to acclimate under a lower par and, if desired, move the frag to a higher par area of the aquarium. I use a T5/led combo and I've found this gives me leverage to keep the widest number of strains happy as opposed to just LEDS.

An additional observation for you. Your z&p's will benefit from slightly elevated nitrates and phosphates. However, nothing beats a fully mature aquarium (12-18 months old) for keeping zoas happy. Unfortunately you can't do anything to speed that up. No product out of a bottle will change that. Just time and patience. But, you can certainly bridge that gap using things like phyto and reefroids which are essential to growing zoas.

 

[Keithb22]

If the Coral Propagation book you're referring to is the Anthony Calfo one then that's an excellent resource.

I think everyone did a nice job answering your question. I would add that many of the aquacultured zoas available are well removed from their natural state and have been keep in mixed reefs, under artificial lights going back potentially generations. So really, what you're trying to do is sync up with the aquarium parameters the mother colony was kept in. For this reason it's good to know your params (including par) and the seller's params. Additionally, it's always better to acclimate under a lower par and, if desired, move the frag to a higher par area of the aquarium. I use a T5/led combo and I've found this gives me leverage to keep the widest number of strains happy as opposed to just LEDS.

An additional observation for you. Your z&p's will benefit from slightly elevated nitrates and phosphates. However, nothing beats a fully mature aquarium (12-18 months old) for keeping zoas happy. Unfortunately you can't do anything to speed that up. No product out of a bottle will change that. Just time and patience. But, you can certainly bridge that gap using things like phyto and reefroids which are essential to growing zoas.

It is the one by Anthony Calfo and has been a great resource. But as you said, you all have been great with the advice. It is a lot to take in sometime and having g this as a resource is outstanding. I have them on the lower rack with the favias/ favites and they seem to be doing decently. I know one set seems to have the tentacle fold back a little. I have been using hikari food to feed all of them, should I do it daily?

 

[littlebigreef]

I broadcast feed reefroids twice a week and a few ounces of phyto every night. I am not familiar with the hikari product. Daily seems excessive. I wouldn't recommend more than once or twice a week otherwise you'll burn through product pretty quickly. Naturally you can make adjustments and determine the point of diminishing return as you continue to learn.

 

[Keithb22]

Thank you for that, I will stop and swap to 2x a week. Also pick up some phyto.

 

[45ZoaGarden]

I spot feed reef roids, mysis, krill juice, or phyto 3x a week. Mostly reef roids though