Hydrogen peroxide?

[Yellowtang]

I know the uses and doseages for fresh water, but due to the trickle down theory (Rapid City, SD) is the last man on the totum pole. Its almost a miracle drug for some freshwater stuff.

What do you use it for in saltwater and at what dosages.

JR,

 

[gparr]

Mr. Firemouth (Rich Dietz) has had great success with hydrogen peroxide and has researched dosage and treatment. Send him a PM, I'm sure he'll help you out. I tried to find his posts here, but no luck with a quick search.
Gary

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

Hi guys,
Hydrogen peroxide can be added at 10ml per 100g tank to boost dissolved oxygen on a weekly basis.

It can be added at a dosage rate of one 5 ml cap at a time until you see bubbles forming on a piece of live rock in a container with tank water. At this point you can add an infected zoa or LPS to the container and cure many bacterial infections. You can also treat soft corals this way including anemones.
The coral should be left for a minimum of 5 minutes in this bath.

It does not work well with container dosing and SPS. SPS seems to RTN quickly after a treatment. Products like REVIVE work much better with SPS.

Any coral showing signs of stress and continually getting worse while you do nothing is probably going to die anyway. So, chance a bath and cure what ails it.

I have seen positive results with fish too with one 5ml to 1 qt SW and then add the infected fish. It has caused ich to release and the velvet disease to reverse, but that is with daily baths and massive water changes in the main tank.

Hydrogen peroxide has benefits, but is a heavy oxidant that can quickly kill fish and coral if dosed wrong. More is not better with this product. So be careful when using it.

 

[macclellan]

It also oxidizes some algae. I've had no issues dripping it directly onto zoas out of water after the polyps have closed, letting it sit for 1-2 mins, then putting in a small container with tank water for a few minutes till the bubbles are gone. Helps get rid of algae between polyps.

 

[beaslbob]

Interesting.

I was wondering if a similiar benefit could be had by using ozone and monitoring ORP?

 

[Yellowtang]

Mr. Firemouth.. You are talking about 3% solution correct???. I have also used it on cryno with a 1 ml pipet sprayed directy on it and it just melts away.

JR,

 

[DaveA]

Rich,

Is this a mainenance dosing (10ml per 100 gal), or is this to dose for problems?

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

Yes Dave,
keep the dosage low, because it is a heavy oxidant and reacts like a halogen(I think I spelled that right) much like ozone. I would dose that once a week, no more.
If you dose directly to a tank you will see corals close up and get puffy, but they will return to normal.

In tanks less than 100g, NEVER dose more than 5 ml.

 

[Yellowtang]

Well if your not dosing more than 5 ml in a hundred gallons you must be talking about 35% food grade. I dose 1 ml of 3% per gallon of fresh water twice a day to my fresh water Angel fish eggs to stop fungus. Twice a day because it doesn't last more than 8 hours in a areated container before completely dissipated. So I'm just trying to understand. Being old and darn near senile sometimes takes me a little longer to get the drift of things. If it was never more than 50 ml of 3% in a hundred gallons I would understand the dose rate but 5 ml of 3% in a hundred gallons is barely a drop in the bucket..

JR,

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

Not really.
In the FW tanks many plants are extremely sensitive to the oxidizing affects of HP and will melt within a day of adding the solution. These are usually fine stemmed, fine leaf plants and crypts. The majority of broad leaf plants fair much better with the addition of this chemical.

However in Saltwater, our corals are much more sensitive to this chemical. They tend to react negatively to the rapid increase in O2 in their tissues as the chemical reacts with the photosynthetic zooxanthelle alage in their tissues. Many corals can not take a large dose or a prolonged concentrated dose, and many inverts like copepods and amphipods will die in a HP bath of 5ml which shows that ornamental inverts like shrimp and crabs are susceptible to gill burns from this and asphyxiating.

More is certainly not better when adding it to a SW reef tank.

 

[DaveA]

Not really.
In the FW tanks many plants are extremely sensitive to the oxidizing affects of HP and will melt within a day of adding the solution. These are usually fine stemmed, fine leaf plants and crypts. The majority of broad leaf plants fair much better with the addition of this chemical.

However in Saltwater, our corals are much more sensitive to this chemical. They tend to react negatively to the rapid increase in O2 in their tissues as the chemical reacts with the photosynthetic zooxanthelle alage in their tissues. Many corals can not take a large dose or a prolonged concentrated dose, and many inverts like copepods and amphipods will die in a HP bath of 5ml which shows that ornamental inverts like shrimp and crabs are susceptible to gill burns from this and asphyxiating.

More is certainly not better when adding it to a SW reef tank.

But Rich, you didn't answer his question (and I'm wondering too). Is your Hydrogen Peroxide 35%, 3%, something else, or unknown?

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

Sorry, it is the store bought 3%.

 

[Yellowtang]

Thank you sir.

JR,

 

[treylane]

Does anybody have links to the threads where all this stuff is explained, or personal experiences? How about effects on various macroalgaes?

 

[macclellan]

Not really.
In the FW tanks many plants are extremely sensitive to the oxidizing affects of HP and will melt within a day of adding the solution. These are usually fine stemmed, fine leaf plants and crypts. The majority of broad leaf plants fair much better with the addition of this chemical.

This does not match with my experience. Hydrogen peroxide is commonly used as a 'spot treatment' (turn off filter(s) for a few minutes) to oxidize nuisance algae on equipment, hardscape, and slow growing plants, but in tanks with all kinds of plants including fine stemmed and leaved plants. I've used up to 1mL:g of 3% solution and nothing melted. I've done 2mL:g of 3% solution and performed a 50% water change afterwards with no negative effects. Never have I observed any melting of plants or visible stress on other livestock.

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/plants/Podio_Algae_Hydrogen_Peroxide.html

It was based on this successful use in freshwater that I decided to try it experimentally on bryopsis in saltwater.

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

I have the species Hornwort that melts within hours of adding it to a system.
I have Crypt Wendtii that also melts but returns.

As with any dosing regimen, there is experimentation and I always recommend the safest, smallest doses. If people wish to experiment and go further they may. There may or may not be bad affects to that.

Over the last 25 years, the one thing I have learned about dosing anything, is More/bigger is not always better.

I agree HP does remove nuisance algaes and has not harmed broad leaf plants that I have or broader leaf stemmed plants like Ludwigia or Hygrophylia. However, I still am uncomfortable telling people to use this product without them understanding the oxidizing affects.

HTH, Rich

 

[Yellowtang]

My main purpose was to find what strength & duration for like coral dips, fish dips, or to kill parasites attached to coral and fish. I don't do doisng for maintenance as a general rule. Dosages for my purpose should be precise amount and duration. Reason being less of a dose can create super bugs because they adapt to your irratation instead of die. Less is not always better but the correct amount almost always gets the job done corectly. Now don't get mad at me Rich the info you were puting out was fine and I thank you for it emensly, it just wasn't what I was looking for. I finally did enough google searches with changing the *-+ signs that I got the info I was
looking for Thanks agian for your time and effort.....

JR,

PS. <Over the last 25 years> Your just a puppy. hehehe..

 

[Mr.Firemouth]

What rates did you find?

 

[Yellowtang]

Coral dips ranged from 10% for half hour to 20% for 15 min. Parasitic, fungus and bacterial dips for fish 25, ppm depending what was it was being used for
typical 15 min dips, all doseages were based on 3% HP the general rule was to use diluted 35% food grade because of the carrier fluid in standard 3% fluid found at the drug store, I guess some brand are using metals as carried fluids..

JR,

 

[Yellowtang]

Here is link for info peroxide is treatment 12 if you don't want to read the whole doc

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/sp/feature/index.php

JR,