Hydrogen peroxide?
- Thread starter Griff
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3% from the store or pharmacy is fine but that's not the ideal way to fix your issue w it, that's contacting non target areas in the way described. the much better outcome is to use a knife tip to scrape clean all the algae totally gone, like a dentist removes plaque. damages the substrate/scrape marks clean
then you use the 3% after, on the clean area
its needs to be a surgical/precision event scraping up and near flesh...detail removal of anchored plants. merely dunking works, but stresses non targets and cannot beat this method.
then you use the 3% after, on the clean area
its needs to be a surgical/precision event scraping up and near flesh...detail removal of anchored plants. merely dunking works, but stresses non targets and cannot beat this method.
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Griff
Well-Known Member
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http://reef2reef.com/threads/5-new-...be-cured-using-a-rasp-and-a-test-rock.257862/
no on dilution, and I use 35% what we are about to use on yours is 3%
I get mean with peroxide, and have no algae for a good 7 yrs now. I don't even rasp much unless its new imported frags, I beat algae permanently this way.
no on dilution, and I use 35% what we are about to use on yours is 3%
I get mean with peroxide, and have no algae for a good 7 yrs now. I don't even rasp much unless its new imported frags, I beat algae permanently this way.
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Griff
Well-Known Member
I read the thread but what do you do when you have a large rock formation that can't be removed from tank for scraping. I used pukani and there are so many pores and holes there is no way I could scrape it all away. Fortunately the 4 rocks that are the worst are easily removed and two of them don't have any corals on them. The other two that are really bad have mushrooms on them. Discoma and ricordia. Will the H202 hurt the mushrooms.
never seen it harm mushrooms but you don't have to ruin the rock. the key is that you can remove all tufts at least, vs adding peroxide to the water burning nontargets + full bushes
if you rasp it down to just a pigmented cover (agreed that rock is especially holey) then you removed most mass, most of the tufts that catch and hold detritus for cyclic breakdown/feed again, any rasping work counts and with that rock, doing it on first detection is now key. I would drain that tank then, hold water in brute can, use 35% spot treat only. you can drain down to the level of access for a single test run rasp spot treat, before wasting time on the whole tank. you could rasp it out underwater with a rod fastened onto a siphon hose to prevent casting around the tank, then use one of the paste peroxide methods with baking soda if you couldn't drain the tank, but in the least use the pre testing mode before large scale action
if you rasp it down to just a pigmented cover (agreed that rock is especially holey) then you removed most mass, most of the tufts that catch and hold detritus for cyclic breakdown/feed again, any rasping work counts and with that rock, doing it on first detection is now key. I would drain that tank then, hold water in brute can, use 35% spot treat only. you can drain down to the level of access for a single test run rasp spot treat, before wasting time on the whole tank. you could rasp it out underwater with a rod fastened onto a siphon hose to prevent casting around the tank, then use one of the paste peroxide methods with baking soda if you couldn't drain the tank, but in the least use the pre testing mode before large scale action
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Not sure about the 35%?! That's some nasty caustic stuff and would be careful using that anywhere near your tank, especially without dilution. Honestly the 3% is effective enough for spot treating algae, unless you're in a bad mood and at the end of you rope? I just put about 5ml worth of 3% in my 10 gallon tank and may have seriously injured/killed a few LPS corals. And yes peroxide has a short term negative effect on mushrooms causing them to shrivel up
we have 7 yrs documented in tank use of it 35
agreed it requires skin and eye care, its not that bad in a reef, here's a whole pico site built around it (pico meaning 1/100th the dilution factors at play in the normal size tanks)
agreed it requires skin and eye care, its not that bad in a reef, here's a whole pico site built around it (pico meaning 1/100th the dilution factors at play in the normal size tanks)
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I just don't see why you would use something so strong when it's unnecessary. How big is your tank and how many mL would you dump in your tank at one time?
If I were to bathe a rock covered in algae I would do 50% tank water with 50% 3% peroxide for up to 5 minutes. If treating in tank, turn off flow and use a small hyperdermic needle to spot treat and let sit for 10 minutes before turning flow back on
http://www.reefjar.com/
check that out, we use it in gallon sps reefs. single gallon sps reefs
you're right about hands and eyes. The reefcentral peroxide thread running 6 yrs has tons of use in it, google pest algae challenge thread. we guided 35% use in tank across fifty tanks there. its power juice, like when you drag race not using 88 octane lol
if this op automatically cant remove rocks, cant drain tank, can't rasp, then amp up the juice on a single 1 ml test spot using one of the underwater applications. you can use a few mls on target underwater injected slowly into a large tank, id do it drained however and not in the water. id remove that rock and force win that battle, or use some of the new dosers out to see if they work. we have decent documentation though for the p
I agree its highly ironic that something that can blind a person is a great awesome reef algaecide. I used some in my tank just last week, a gallon vase decade old. I let the insides get all scummy and then when drained, I wet paper towel it inside w the 35%, rinse and fill up.
if his tank was mine id lift out a test rock, rasp, hit 35%, and assess that in a week. if its awesome outcome, then do drain treatments only one spot at a time, not removing the rock is going to make more work in the end. It all comes down to hesitation, this was easily prevented upon first detection, its a requisite hitchhiker invader that happens from non quarantine and from the letting the original mass anchor in. If vibrant works as is claimed in the big forum up top, then peroxide use will begin to phase out over time due to its careful dosing/application techniques required.
we like it currently because of its online track record and the predictability of what it will do to this algae...but its sensitive animal list is considerable and that doser Vibrant claims to have no side effects, just fixes every known invader. nothing wrong w trying that too, it wont blind someone lol.
here was the peroxide part of that link
http://www.reefjar.com/how-to-kill-algae-with-h202/
check that out, we use it in gallon sps reefs. single gallon sps reefs
you're right about hands and eyes. The reefcentral peroxide thread running 6 yrs has tons of use in it, google pest algae challenge thread. we guided 35% use in tank across fifty tanks there. its power juice, like when you drag race not using 88 octane lol
if this op automatically cant remove rocks, cant drain tank, can't rasp, then amp up the juice on a single 1 ml test spot using one of the underwater applications. you can use a few mls on target underwater injected slowly into a large tank, id do it drained however and not in the water. id remove that rock and force win that battle, or use some of the new dosers out to see if they work. we have decent documentation though for the p
I agree its highly ironic that something that can blind a person is a great awesome reef algaecide. I used some in my tank just last week, a gallon vase decade old. I let the insides get all scummy and then when drained, I wet paper towel it inside w the 35%, rinse and fill up.
if his tank was mine id lift out a test rock, rasp, hit 35%, and assess that in a week. if its awesome outcome, then do drain treatments only one spot at a time, not removing the rock is going to make more work in the end. It all comes down to hesitation, this was easily prevented upon first detection, its a requisite hitchhiker invader that happens from non quarantine and from the letting the original mass anchor in. If vibrant works as is claimed in the big forum up top, then peroxide use will begin to phase out over time due to its careful dosing/application techniques required.
we like it currently because of its online track record and the predictability of what it will do to this algae...but its sensitive animal list is considerable and that doser Vibrant claims to have no side effects, just fixes every known invader. nothing wrong w trying that too, it wont blind someone lol.
here was the peroxide part of that link
http://www.reefjar.com/how-to-kill-algae-with-h202/
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Nope but feel free to mist them with a bottle of salt water my own tank can go 30 minutes in the air totally drained and losing nothing because I'm Coral only with no fish
Me personally I wouldn't do any large-scale treatment until a single test Rock responds exactly the way you wanted to there's no rush
but feel free to mist them with a bottle of salt water my own tank can go 30 minutes in the air totally drained and losing nothing because I'm Coral only with no fishMe personally I wouldn't do any large-scale treatment until a single test Rock responds exactly the way you wanted to there's no rush
Reef@holic
Active Member
Common store bought stuff...you can find it at the dollar tree which is 3% and mix 50/50 peroxide and water, dip for 10 mins and use toothbrush to clean frag plugs, discs etc...
60 page peroxide research threads with zero unpredicted losses show a different way
we don't contact peroxide to the nontarget areas in most cases. in fact, ive never seen a case other than dinos where it was required.
when peroxide is used correctly its 100% predictable, says mighty big threads.
90% of peroxide threads you see on the web aren't the 60 pages ones, they're ones of people dosing the whole tank (hardly ever the right action) or dipping nontargets into peroxide. no algae grows on the coral polyps, its always around exposed skeletal areas on LPS, so we only work on those areas, like surgery. peroxide isn't the algae remover, a metal detail tool is. peroxide is the cleanup after detailed scrape removal, like what a dentist does to plaque. the physical action is the most important, not the chem, just like what a dentist does.
we don't contact peroxide to the nontarget areas in most cases. in fact, ive never seen a case other than dinos where it was required.
when peroxide is used correctly its 100% predictable, says mighty big threads.
90% of peroxide threads you see on the web aren't the 60 pages ones, they're ones of people dosing the whole tank (hardly ever the right action) or dipping nontargets into peroxide. no algae grows on the coral polyps, its always around exposed skeletal areas on LPS, so we only work on those areas, like surgery. peroxide isn't the algae remover, a metal detail tool is. peroxide is the cleanup after detailed scrape removal, like what a dentist does to plaque. the physical action is the most important, not the chem, just like what a dentist does.
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Griff
Well-Known Member
The bubble coral wasn't doing great as is by the peroxide destroyed it.
It didn't hurt the mushrooms at all on another piece of rock. The GHA has gotten pretty bad at this point.
My plan at this point is to do the rocks 50% at a time. Take out half scrub and scrape then pour peroxide on areas where I scrape. Let sit 5 minutes the pour RODI over rock to rinse then place rocks back in system.
I'm also going to change the carbon in my reactor to phosguard. I'm getting acceptable reading in PO4 but based on the amount of algae in tank and sump I know it must be much higher than the .04 I'm getting on Hanna checker. Have always tested 0 on nitrates but would like to get them up some.
After cleaning rocks and adding phosguard I'm going to leave the sump dirty and continue to test levels. I assume PO4 may go up after removing GHA from tank.
I'll wait a week or 2 then clean sump.
One concern I have now is will my corals be ok if some h202 gets on them?
It didn't hurt the mushrooms at all on another piece of rock. The GHA has gotten pretty bad at this point.
My plan at this point is to do the rocks 50% at a time. Take out half scrub and scrape then pour peroxide on areas where I scrape. Let sit 5 minutes the pour RODI over rock to rinse then place rocks back in system.
I'm also going to change the carbon in my reactor to phosguard. I'm getting acceptable reading in PO4 but based on the amount of algae in tank and sump I know it must be much higher than the .04 I'm getting on Hanna checker. Have always tested 0 on nitrates but would like to get them up some.
After cleaning rocks and adding phosguard I'm going to leave the sump dirty and continue to test levels. I assume PO4 may go up after removing GHA from tank.
I'll wait a week or 2 then clean sump.
One concern I have now is will my corals be ok if some h202 gets on them?
I wanted to post a few of the threads not for bombardment lol but for coral detailing. All common corals we keep are shown in these multi pagers for reference, to see patterns.
No lps corals are listed as sensitives, though as you mentioned stressed ones need to be detailed. I use 35% peroxide, 10x normal strength, and when it gets on my corals accidentally they're angry and burnt but never die
You will not see repeating patterns or actually any zoanthid losses or lps losses here below, we use detailing vs broadcast work. Though 35% is horribly dangerous to human eyes, I use it vs 3% for a reason. To win on round one. 3% usually works fine most cases
No lps corals are listed as sensitives, though as you mentioned stressed ones need to be detailed. I use 35% peroxide, 10x normal strength, and when it gets on my corals accidentally they're angry and burnt but never die
You will not see repeating patterns or actually any zoanthid losses or lps losses here below, we use detailing vs broadcast work. Though 35% is horribly dangerous to human eyes, I use it vs 3% for a reason. To win on round one. 3% usually works fine most cases
